‘It’s still a family favourite’: your heirloom recipes – and the stories behind them

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A few years ago, I bought my mother a notebook for her recipes,It was a weighty, leather-bound affair that could act as a vault for all the vivid stews, slow-cooked beans and many other family specialities – the secrets of which existed only in her head,Although the gift has basically been a failure (bar a lengthy WhatsApp message detailing her complex jollof rice methodology, she still has an allergy to writing down cooking techniques or quantities), I think the impulse behind it is sound and highly relatable,Family recipes are a form of time travel,An act of cultural preservation that connects us deeply to people we may not have met and places we may not have visited.

Those realities shine through in this week’s gathered compendium of heirloom recipes submitted by readers,Baked beans given a Gujarati twist,An Atlantic-hopping riff on spinach and feta pie,A billowing yorkshire pudding with sticky bramley apples in its base,All of these preparations, particularly when a recipe for anything is a mere tap away, point to the power of human connection and the ingenuity of domestic chefs.

And perhaps the best thing about ancestral culinary approaches is that they can be passed from one clan to another, living on even as they are adapted and evolve.So enjoy these evocative accounts, cook these dishes (untouched and untested by the Feast team, in the spirit of keeping them in their original form) and, perhaps, let another delicious new tradition into your own family’s ever-shifting culinary story.‘I hope one day my son will pass down the recipe to his children’“My favourite recipe is Bapa’s beans – tinned baked beans turned into a delicious Indian curry,” says Sonia, 40, from Manchester.“My grandfather, who passed away 20 years ago, showed me this recipe.We used to have it with traditional Gujarati rotli (small, thin chapati).

I make this for my husband and our two boys, and serve it with hot buttery sourdough to turn it into an Indian version of beans on toast,”For Sonia, the dish helps her remember her grandad and “hold on as much as [she] can” to her Indian identity,“When my brother and I were little, we spent a lot of time with our Indian grandparents (who came to the UK from Gujarat, India) in their small, cold, terraced house in Bradford,Ba [grandma] did all of the cooking; fresh vegetarian curries with rotis and rice every day, served with pickles, poppadoms and all the trimmings,She was, and still is, a brilliant cook.

When it was my Bapa’s [grandad’s] turn to take over the kitchen and feed us kids, he made Bapa’s beans with rotis – from the freezer, that Ba had made for emergencies like this.“Requiring minimal prep and with minimal room for failure, it’s easy to see why this was the only thing that Ba ever showed him how to make.My grandparents could make a meal out of anything.Even though there was not much money, there was always a feast, and whoever was there would be included.“Before leaving home for university in Manchester, I asked them to show me how to make Bapa’s beans and I’ve made them almost every month since,” Sonia says.

She adds: “I can feel Bapa sitting with my family every time we eat them.I’ll be teaching my 15-year-old son how to make Bapa’s beans before he leaves home … I hope that one day he will pass this recipe down to his own children.” Sonia, 40, ManchesterBapa’s beans2 tbsp cooking oil 1 brown onion, diced1/2 tsp of asafoetida 5 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced1/2 tsp mustard seeds 2 400g tins of baked beans 1 tsp carom seeds1/2 tsp chilli powder 2 heaped tsp ground cumin 2 heaped tsp turmeric powder 1 heaped tsp coriander powder A handful of fresh chopped coriander SaltHeat the oil in a pan and add the mustard seeds.Cover with a lid and wait until the seeds stop popping.Add the asafoetida and let it sizzle for a few seconds.

Add the diced onion and salt, and gently fry on a medium heat.Once golden, add garlic slices and fry for a few more minutes.Add the rest of the spices, apart from the carom seeds, and fry for 2 minutes.Pour in two cans of baked beans and stir through until well mixed.Add carom seeds and simmer for 15 mins.

Finally, stir through the fresh coriander.Serve with hot, buttery sourdough toast.‘This recipe is my connection to three women I never knew’Grant lives in Canada but grew up eating this Christmas pudding with white sauce, a dish that links him to his grandmas from Scotland and Yorkshire.It is his most cherished recipe, he says.“Made with chopped bread, not flour, [the Christmas pudding recipe] travelled from Scotland to Canada with my grandmother, written in her own hand on a small sheet of paper, and we’ve made it every year for as long as I can remember.

”Every November, his parents would bring out “the special pudding bowl passed down from my father’s mum”, he recalls.“That bowl, worn smooth with decades of use, was the signal that the season had begun.As a child, the sight of it meant Christmas was on its way; as an adult, it became a special memory [that takes me] back to the quiet joy of watching my mum and dad work together in the kitchen, creating that dark, moist, fragrant pudding.“When I eventually set out on my own, I asked my mum for the recipe.She produced the original page, still in my grandmother’s graceful cursive.

The ink had begun to soften and feather, the paper fragile and browned at the edges – a patina of time, travel, and countless baking spills,I remember holding it like a relic,“It’s more than a delicious, spiced pudding,It’s a piece of our history – a recipe barely changed since it crossed the ocean, passed from a woman I never had the chance to meet, now living on in my own home each winter,“When I asked about how the white sauce came to be, my mum said that my grandmother (from Yorkshire) found it in a 1940s women’s magazine.

Food is a connecting mechanism, and this is a connection to three women I never knew: my grandma and great-grandma from Scotland, and my grandma from Yorkshire.” Grant Whitehead, 57, CanadaGrandma’s Christmas puddingDry ingredients1 cup flour 1 tsp baking powder ¼ tsp baking soda ¼ tsp salt ½ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp nutmeg, freshly ground ¼ tsp cloves ¼ tsp allspice 1 cup soft brown bread, cut into cubes ½ cup brown sugarFruit mix1 cup seedless raisins 1 cup currants 1 cup dates, chopped ½ cup peel ½ cup chopped walnuts (optional)Wet ingredients½ cup butter, softened 2 eggs ⅓ cup molasses 1 cup milk ¼ tsp vanillaGrease and flour a heatproof bowl.(A covered pudding bowl is best, but any decorative, tall ceramic bowl is fine.) Combine all the dry ingredients in a large bowl and stir to mix.Dust the fruit mixture well with flour, then add it to the dry ingredients.

Fold to combine,In a separate bowl, cream the butter until softened,Add the eggs and lightly beat them into the butter,Add the molasses and milk, stirring thoroughly to combine,The molasses doesn’t always bind easily with the butter, so this may take up to a minute.

Add this wet mixture to the fruit and dry ingredients,Fold gently until thoroughly combined,Spoon the batter evenly into the greased pudding bowl,The batter is thick, so gently pat it down,Gently whack the bowl on a surface to remove any air bubbles.

Cover with a lid, or if no lid is available, cover with foil and tie securely with string.Put a plate in the bottom of a pot and then place the pudding bowl in the pot.Fill the pot with water so it comes halfway up the pudding bowl.Cover the pot with a lid, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low to create a steam bath.You do not want a rolling boil that will disturb the bowl.

Small puddings should be steamed for one to two hours, check at one hour; large puddings can take up to three hours,Grandma Whitehead’s white sauce 2 cups milk (at least 2%)1/2 cup white sugar 1 tbsp of butter 2 tbsp cornstarch 1 tsp vanillaBring a large pot of water to a boil,Then place a heatproof bowl on top, ensuring the water is not touching the bowl,In this bowl, combine the sugar and cornstarch, mix together,Once mixed, push it to one side of the bowl.

Add the butter to the opposite side from the sugar/cornstarch mixture.Once the butter begins to melt, mix it gently together with the sugar/cornstarch mixture.This will prevent any lumping.Add vanilla and stir.Gradually add all of the milk, stirring well each time the milk is added.

Do not mix rapidly as this will create froth; something you don’t want.Keep stirring continuously, adjusting heat if water boils over.Keep cooking until the cornstarch has created desired consistency.(I like a custard-like consistency so it’s thick but able to put over pudding.) Can be made two days before [making the pudding] and kept in fridge.

To reheat, place it in a heatproof bowl over simmering water to prevent burning.Warm up gently and pour over servings.‘It is my family’s story on a plate’For Zack, spinaka – a spinach and feta pie – tells the story of resilience.“The dish came to New York with my great-grandmother, Frieda, from Turkey,” says Zack, 27, who works in music at a non-profit.“Frieda was orphaned at a young age in a small Ottoman village (what is now Turkey).

Her siblings left for the Americas, leaving Frieda, eight, to fend for herself.“Spinaka was something she made to get through those tough years.It nourished her as she mended soldiers’ clothing, scraping together enough money to make the journey to New York.When she arrived in the city, life didn’t get much easier.She married and had six kids, but two died.

Then the Great Depression hit, and she had to work, feed the family, and take night classes so she could learn to read and write.Again, spinaka kept everyone going: the ingredients were affordable, it was packed full of nutrients, and it could be made in large quantities.“I’ve never seen anyone else do it with the dough that my family uses.While typically made with layered phyllo dough, we make spinaka with a more crude ‘peasant dough’.You boil water and olive oil, then add flour, knead briefly, and roll out … When I make spinaka, I season the dough and add sumac to the filling.

Once baked, you always serve each slice with fresh lemon juice and cracked black pepper on top,”Spinaka remains a mainstay of family gatherings,“I learned the recipe from my grandmother, who learned it from her mother-in-law,” says Zack,“It’s the dish that made me discover my love of cooking,It sounds funny to say, but spinaka is at the core of my family.

Even when we spend a holiday or birthday fighting with each other, we still sit around the table and savour this delicious pie together.It is always on the table.”Zack adds: “Later, Frieda would make the dish for her grandchildren and great-grandchildren at her apartment in Coney Island … Spinaka was no longer a necessity for Frieda’s survival, but she kept making it.There is something very powerful about that.“I’m humbled by that fact every time I eat the dish, and I’m proud to have this culinary connection to my roots.

Spinaka is my family story on a plate,” Zack, 27, New York‘It’s everything a stew should be’Desanka Bajic always looked forward to making the Serbian stew passed down by her father, who was from the former Yugoslavia,“[It’s] called boranja, which I recently found out from my Kosovan neighbours means beans,” says Desanka, 69, who lives in London,“It is a lamb-and-green-bean stew in a tomato-based sauce, with loads of sweet paprika and potatoes,My dad showed my mum, who would cook it in the winter, just as I do now.

It’s everything a stew should be: rich and full of flavour, substantial, smells divine when cooking, due to the paprika,It cooks for four hours and tastes better the second day,”Desanka grew up in England in the 1950s and 60s and remembers the food of her childhood being pretty boring,“The highlight, apart from sweets and chocolate, was fish and chips from the local chippy,But having a Yugoslav father brought food into our house that other English working-class kids did not have
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Benjamina Ebuehi’s recipe for citrus and almond cake | The sweet spot

Anything bright and zingy is particularly welcome in January, even more so when it’s in the form of cake. I always have an odd end of marzipan after the festive season, and this is a great way to use it up and bring that cosy almond flavour. The marzipan gets blitzed into the butter for a plush-textured loaf cake, and comes together in minutes thanks to simply putting everything in a food processor.Prep 10 min Cook 1 hr 10 min, plus cooling Serves 8-10200g unsalted butter, softened125g marzipan 150g caster sugar Finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange, plus 2 tbsp extra juice for the icingFinely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon3 large eggs 220g plain flour 50g ground almonds ¼ tsp fine sea salt 2 tsp baking powder 50g plain yoghurtTo finish100g icing sugar 40g toasted flaked almondsHeat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4, and grease and line a 2lb loaf tin with baking paper.Put the butter and marzipan in a food processor and blitz until smooth

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‘It’s still a family favourite’: your heirloom recipes – and the stories behind them

A few years ago, I bought my mother a notebook for her recipes. It was a weighty, leather-bound affair that could act as a vault for all the vivid stews, slow-cooked beans and many other family specialities – the secrets of which existed only in her head. Although the gift has basically been a failure (bar a lengthy WhatsApp message detailing her complex jollof rice methodology, she still has an allergy to writing down cooking techniques or quantities), I think the impulse behind it is sound and highly relatable. Family recipes are a form of time travel. An act of cultural preservation that connects us deeply to people we may not have met and places we may not have visited

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Rachel Roddy’s puntarelle, radicchio, celery, apple and cheese salad recipe

Like many, I remember Charlie Hicks from Veg Talk, a weekly show that ran on Radio 4 from 1998-2005. The show, according to Sheila Dillon, came into being after her interview with Charlie, a fourth-generation fruit and veg supplier at Covent Garden market, for an episode of The Food Programme exploring where chefs bought their produce. Sitting at the kitchen table with her husband the following evening, Sheila recounted her day and Charlie’s enormous knowledge, enthusiasm and ability to communicate both. A few days after that, a similar conversation took place with her colleagues at Radio 4, which resulted in Veg Talk – what’s in and what’s out in the world of fresh produce. As well as Charlie’s market report, each episode included a feature called “vegetable of the week” and the participation of studio guests – Angela Hartnett, Alastair Little, Rose Gray, Darina Allen and Mitch Tonks, to name just a few – and took calls from listeners

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How to convert kitchen scraps into an infused oil – recipe

All those odds and ends of chillies, garlic skins and rind can be used to flavour oil for dunking, dipping and marinatingToday’s recipe began life as a way to use up garlic skins and herby leftovers, all of which contain a surprising amount of flavour, but it has evolved over time. Infused oil has countless uses – drizzle it over carpaccio, pasta or salad, use it to marinate meat, fish and vegetables, or simply as a dip for chunks of sourdough – and some of my favourites include lemon rind, garlic skin and rosemary; star anise, cacao and orange rind; and makrut lime leaf, lemongrass husk and coriander stems, which I found especially delicious drizzled over some noodles and pak choi. Freshly infused oils of this sort aren’t suitable for long storage, however, so use them up within a day to two.As I look around my kitchen, I’ve got a two-year-old jar of remarkably tasty chillies gathering dust, a bowl of clementines (I think of citrus rinds as harbingers of incredible flavour, rich in essential oils and highly aromatic terpenes) and a small jar of long pepper, a pungent, complex spice that’s been sitting on my kitchen shelf for years without a purpose. When put together, however, and left to bubble gently on the hob, they fill my kitchen with a wildly aromatic and exotic aroma

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Slurp the blues away: Ravinder Bhogal’s recipes for winter noodle soup-stews

One of the best things for lifting deflated spirits is a deep bowl of steaming, restorative soup – perfect for warming the places your old woolly jumper can’t reach. I love the romance and cosiness of creamy European soups drunk straight out of a mug around a fire in November, but in the icy tundra that is January I need something with more heat and intensity, something sustaining, spicy, gutsy and textured, so that I need a fork or chopsticks to eat it, rather than just a spoon. These punchy soups are simply rapture in a bowl, and make for extremely satisfying slurping.Khao swe is a Burmese noodle soup with hot coconut broth, springy noodles and a madness of garnishes, from boiled eggs to peanuts or crisp shallots. Feel free to swap out the poultry for vegetables such as pumpkin or tofu, or seafood such as prawns

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Savoury snacks to stave off the lure of the biscuit tin | Kitchen aide

What savoury snacks do your recipe columnists make when they’re trying to stay away from the biscuit tin?Jess, by email The pull of the biscuit tin is all too familiar to Guardian baker Benjamina Ebuehi, who, unsurprisingly, is often found in full “sweet mode”. To counterbalance the intake of cake, she tends to look for “something salty, spiced and crisp”, and, if time is on her side, that usually means homemade tortilla chips. “Chop corn tortillas into triangles, brush with olive oil and seasonings – flaky salt, za’atar, dukkah, garlic granules, or everything bagel seasoning, which is elite.” Bake until nice and crisp, then dunk into hummus. Her fellow Guardian regular Georgina Hayden is also rarely found without a tub of that creamy chickpea dip, whether it’s homemade or shop-bought: “I usually drizzle chilli crisp oil over the top of my hummus, then scoop it up with crudites [celery, carrot, cucumber, say]