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US Postal Service to introduce 8% fuel surcharge on packages

The US Postal Service (USPS) plans to introduce its first-ever fuel surcharge on packages to offset rising energy costs, according to a statement.The surcharge, set at 8%, is expected to take effect on 26 April and remain in place until 17 January 2027, under the current plan.Packages under Priority Mail Express, Priority Mail, USPS Ground Advantage and Parcel Select will be affected by the surcharge.“Transportation costs have been increasing, and our competitors have reacted with a number of surcharges,” reads the statement by the USPS. “We have steadfastly avoided surcharges and this charge is less than one-third of what our competitors charge for fuel alone, so even with this change, the Postal Service continues to offer great value in shipping with some of the lowest rates in the industrialized world

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Rising profit margins turbocharged Australia’s latest inflation figures – but something worse is just around the corner | Greg Jericho

It is rare for economic data to be out of date the moment it is published – and yet that is the case with the February inflation figures out on Wednesday at 11.30am. By 11.31am they had been digested and ignored amid a flurry of “before the full impact of the Iran war” comments.In February, annual inflation was 3

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No escape from the energy shock for UK business. A long-term strategy is still essential | Nils Pratley

The cost of energy for British business was a crisis even before the Iran war sent prices higher: the UK already had the highest electricity prices for industry among G7 countries. Now comes the next whack. How big will it be?Projections from the energy consultancy Cornwall Insight are steep for electricity and gas. For the former, it thinks increases of 10-30% are on the cards; for the latter 25-80%. The ranges are wide because, unlike with households, there are no price caps for businesses

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Stocks rise and oil dips on hopes of 15-point Iran peace plan

The price of oil has dipped and stock markets around the world have moved higher on reports that the US has sent a 15-point framework for peace to Iran, amid hopes of a ceasefire in the Middle East.Positive sentiment may also have been bolstered by reports that Iran had announced it was permitting “non-hostile” ships to pass safely through the strait of Hormuz, a move that could help to reopen the vital shipping lane.Oil prices had fallen by 4% in the early hours of Wednesday, with the Brent crude benchmark sinking below $100 a barrel, as traders reacted to the prospect of an easing of the squeeze on supplies.Stock markets in Asia moved higher, with Japan’s Nikkei closing up 2.9% and Hong Kong’s Hang Seng adding just over 1%

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Crispin Odey tried to ‘manipulate’ sexual assault victim, FCA tells court

The financial watchdog has accused the former hedge fund manager Crispin Odey of attempting to “manipulate” a victim of sexual assault into silence.Odey texted his former employee, whose breasts he had groped, a warning in 2022 that the Financial Conduct Authority could question her about him.He said the regulator was “using” her to further its “vendetta” against him and his hedge fund, Odey Asset Management (OAM).The 67-year-old has previously accepted that he groped the woman without her consent in 2005, which he said happened while he was under the influence of sedatives after a root canal treatment.Odey, who faces a number of sexual harassment allegations, sent the woman a text in January 2022 saying the regulator would use her “to show that there were no controls and you were in fear of my position in the company which stopped you from speaking out”, according to evidence provided by the FCA at a court hearing on Wednesday

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Iran war threatens to delay large offshore wind projects in EU and UK

A string of large offshore wind projects in Europe are facing potential delays as the Iran war threatens to disrupt shipping of crucial parts manufactured in the Gulf.Industry sources are concerned that components ordered from suppliers in the United Arab Emirates could become trapped if shipping remains effectively blocked through the strait of Hormuz.Iran’s chokehold on the crucial trade route has upended oil and gas deliveries from the Middle East. Sources fear contingency plans may have to be put into action to avoid delays to clean energy projects too.These include two giant offshore windfarms planned for UK waters, as well as a series of projects that will supply offshore wind power to Germany and the Netherlands

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ECB could raise eurozone rates ‘as soon as next month’; oil price dips on peace talk hopes – as it happened

Good morning, and welcome to our rolling coverage of business, the financial markets and the world economy.Inflation in the UK was unchanged last month, as expected – before the Iran war drove up global energy costs, threatening a renewed price jump.Official figures showed the consumer prices index (CPI) stayed at an annual rate of 3% in February, the same as in January. Economists had expected it to stay at 3%.Clothing made the largest upward contribution to the monthly change while motor fuels made the largest, offsetting downward contribution, the Office for National Statistics said

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Europe could face fuel shortage by April as Iran throttles supplies, says Shell boss

Europe could face a shortage of energy and fuel as soon as next month without a reopening of the strait of Hormuz, Shell’s chief executive has said.The boss of Europe’s biggest oil company said it was working with governments to help them address the oil and gas supply crisis, which has already led to energy rationing in Asian countries.Oil prices dipped back to about $100 a barrel on Wednesday from highs of about $114 at the start of the week, on the back of reports that the White House had sent a 15-point peace plan to Iran’s leaders.However, without a return of crude deliveries from the Gulf to global buyers via the crucial Hormuz channel, Europe could face shortages of fossil fuels within weeks, according to Wael Sawan.The Shell chief executive told an oil industry conference in Texas: “South Asia was first to get that brunt

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Estate of Mike Lynch ordered to pay £920m to Hewlett Packard Enterprise

The estate of the late British tech tycoon Mike Lynch has been ordered to pay £920m to the technology company Hewlett Packard Enterprise (HPE) two years after he died in a superyacht disaster.The ruling by London’s high court said the estate was liable to pay the sum as compensation, costs and interest for the acquisition of Lynch’s firm Autonomy by Hewlett-Packard (HP), after a UK legal ruling in 2022 that he duped the US company into paying £8.2bn for the software firm.HP split into two separate companies in 2015 – one still called HP, which focuses on printers and PCs, and the software and hardware company HPE.The deceased entrepreneur’s estate has been estimated to be worth about £500m, so the damages could leave it bankrupt

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UK pet owners: we would like to hear about your experience of vet bills

The UK’s competition watchdog has ordered vets to cap prescription fees at £21 and proposed a cost-comparison website.The Competition and Markets Authority (CMA) said public satisfaction with the cost of services was “low” after a two-and-a-half-year investigation that found “there is not strong competition between veterinary businesses”.It said vets must now tell pet owners that medicines may be cheaper online, and let them know they can get a prescription and that this could save them money.We would like to hear from UK pet owners about their experience of vet bills. Did your vet bill come as a surprise, or was it as expected? How did you manage the cost? Tell us

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UK inflation held at 3% before global energy price hit from Iran war

The UK inflation rate held steady at 3% in February, before Donald Trump’s Iran war drove up global energy costs, threatening a renewed price jump.Official figures showed the consumer prices index remained at the same level as the previous month, in line with economists’ expectations but still well above the government’s 2% target.The annual rate of food inflation fell slightly, driven by drops in olive oil, flour and pizza, but the Food and Drink Federation warned this was likely to be “the calm before the storm”.The outlook for inflation has shifted dramatically since the onset of the Middle East conflict, which has sent oil and gas prices soaring after the effective closure of the strait of Hormuz, an important shipping route.As recently as last month, the Bank of England was forecasting CPI inflation to fall to the 2% target in the second quarter of the year, opening the way to more interest rate cuts

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Royal Mail owner pushes back against criticisms that service has declined

Daniel Křetínský, the Czech billionaire who bought Royal Mail’s parent company for £3.6bn last year, has insisted that service has not declined under his ownership, despite heavy criticism of late deliveries and price rises.In a defensive and sometimes impassioned performance in front of MPs on the business select committee, Křetínský said he was “deeply sorry” for any letters that arrive late.Since his takeover, Royal Mail has battled trade unions over working conditions, raised first-class stamp prices from £1.70 to £1

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Average UK mortgage rate rises to highest since August 2024; NS&I to ‘pay millions in compensation’ to bereaved families over savings failures – business live

Good morning and welcome to our rolling coverage of business, the financial markets and the world economy.The UK’s cost of living squeeze is tightening by the day, as the Iran war sends inflationary pressures rippling through the global economy.The average UK mortgage rate has now hit 5.50%, data from Moneyfacts shows. That’s the highest rate since August 2024, as lenders have scrambled to reprice mortgage products as hopes of UK interest rate cuts this year have faded

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UK consumer confidence has ‘collapsed’ during Iran war, retail industry says

Consumer confidence in the UK has “collapsed” since the start of the Iran war, according to new research from the British Retail Consortium.The sharp rise in energy prices caused by the effective closure of the strait of Hormuz and attacks on infrastructure in the region has led to fears of higher inflation and weaker growth across oil-importing countries.Asked about the state of the UK economy over the next three months, 64% of respondents told a survey they expected it to get worse. Just 11% thought it would get better. The resulting balance of -53% was sharply lower than the -20% reading a month earlier

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Charity Commission warns Alan Turing Institute of its legal duties after complaints

The board of the UK’s leading AI research institute has been reminded of its legal duties in areas such as financial oversight and managing organisational change by the charity watchdog after a whistleblower complaint.The Charity Commission has issued formal regulatory advice and guidance to trustees at the Alan Turing Institute (ATI) – the organisation’s board – after it was contacted by a group of staff with a list of concerns.The commission has told ATI it was now closing the case and was not launching a statutory inquiry – a formal investigation. However, the watchdog said if there was evidence of trustees ignoring its advice, it could resume contact with the institute.The commission launched a compliance case related to ATI after receiving the complaint last summer

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Meta and YouTube designed addictive products that harmed young people, jury finds

Meta and YouTube have been found liable for deliberately designing addictive products that hooked a young user and led to her being harmed, a jury ruled on Wednesday. Jurors found the tech companies to be both negligent and having failed to provide adequate warnings about the potential dangers of their products.The jury awarded the plaintiff in the case damages of $6m, with Meta to pay 70% and YouTube the remainder. It took nearly nine days of deliberations for the Los Angeles jury to reach its verdict. This lawsuit, over social media’s alleged harm to young people, was the first of its kind to go to trial

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AFL braces for increase in positive tests under ‘stronger’ new illicit drugs policy

The AFL is preparing for an increase in players testing positive to drugs such as cocaine and MDMA due to more effective testing under a new illicit substances policy, even if the public will never find out.The players union is adamant, however, the “revised” approach will reduce harm, despite the risk of some being exposed to innuendo when they are pulled from matches under a general explanation of “unavailable”.The policy has been in negotiation for two years, and follows explosive comments made in federal parliament in 2024 by independent MP Andrew Wilkie, citing information from former Melbourne doctor Zeeshan Arain, alleging there had been “wilful inaction” by the AFL to address a “prevalence of drug abuse” in the sport.Sport Integrity Australia subsequently found “no irreconcilable inconsistencies” between the AFL’s illicit drugs policy and the National Anti-Doping Scheme. However, there remains wide concern over the level of drug use in the AFL, highlighted by illicit drugs scandals and bans to players including Bailey Smith in recent years

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Former Brisbane Lion Leigh Ryswyk becomes first AFL player to come out as gay

The former Brisbane Lions player and SANFL champion Leigh Ryswyk has become the first past or present male AFL player to come out as gay.Ryswyk, who played one game for the Lions in 2005, opened up about his sexuality on the GayFL radio program.He said his closest friends had known he was gay for five years.“To people who know me, my closest friends, this is not new,” Ryswyk said in an interview with the Melbourne radio station Joy 94.9

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‘Give the guy a chance’: Wes Streeting says he does not want Starmer ousted

Wes Streeting has said he does not want Keir Starmer to be challenged as Labour leader after the May elections as it would undermine the party’s election promise to voters to avoid more chaos.The health secretary, who is widely regarded as a prospective candidate in any contest, urged voters to “give the guy a chance” as he said that none of his colleagues would attempt to oust the prime minister.But while he played down the prospect of a leadership race being triggered, he did not rule out throwing his hat in the ring should one take place in the wake of catastrophic results.Streeting has kept a relatively low profile since the tumultuous day last month when the party’s Scottish leader called for Starmer to go. The health secretary had insisted he backed the prime minister and was not intending to move against him, but allies then suggested his ambitions had not been thwarted

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Overseas political funding capped and crypto donations blocked in blow to Reform UK

Keir Starmer is set to embark on a fundamental overhaul of the political finance system, starting with an emergency ban on cryptocurrency donations and £100,000 cap on donations from Britons living abroad in a blow to Reform UK.In a hugely significant move, the government said it would bring in the annual cap as well as a moratorium on crypto donations from Wednesday as part of its new elections legislation.It will also consider another 15 recommendations from an independent report by Sir Philip Rycroft, who said there is a risk of foreign influence on UK politics from Iran, Russia and China as well as allies such as the US.The decision is likely to curb future donations to Reform UK, which has received about £12m in the past year from Thailand-based investor Christopher Harborne and funding from some donors based in Monaco. Reform is also the only major political party to accept donations in cryptocurrency, with a website soliciting funding in digital assets

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Rachel Roddy’s recipe for potato, aubergine and herb tortino alla fiorentina

The sky is the same shade as old Tupperware, our tortoise appears to have gone back into hibernation, the flat upstairs has builders in, but the kitchen smells gorgeous, thanks to this week’s recipe. It is one of the variations suggested by Anna Gosetti Della Salda for her aubergine and egg tortino alla fiorentina in the Tuscany chapter of Le Ricette Regionali Italiane, an indispensable book that I would save from a fire. The addition of potato to the aubergine makes it an even more substantial, velvet-like and better-tasting dish, I think: a layered vegetable bake crossed with a frittata that fancies itself as having a touch of baked eggs (although don’t expect any puffing up).Instead of the aubergine, you could use artichoke hearts (trimmed and cut into slim wedges), courgettes or cardoon, and, if you fancy, you could also add a crumbled sausage or a handful of diced pancetta. Whatever you use, however, a fundamental stage in terms of both flavour and texture is the initial cooking of the vegetables: frying the potatoes, then covering the pan so they fry-steam into tenderness; the aubergine by simply frying

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How to turn old sourdough into a classic pudding – recipe | Waste not

Bread-and-butter pudding is a zero-waste recipe that has stood the test of time, not least because it’s so practical, comforting and thrifty. Like the best no-waste dishes, it transforms something worthless such as old bread into something truly indulgent. This version is based on Raymond Blanc’s classic, with a few of my own simplifications and adaptations over the years.Most traditional bread-and-butter pudding recipes call for white bread, caster sugar and extra egg yolks, but, unless you’ve got a clear plan for those egg whites, they can very easily end up being wasted. Whole eggs work beautifully in custard, and make very little difference to the richness of the finished pudding; I simply use a touch less milk to compensate

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Ministers consider charging tourists to access UK national museum collections

Ministers are considering charging international tourists to access permanent collections at national museums as part of an initiative to improve arts funding.The government said there was a need for long-term options to fund the struggling arts sector in its response to a review of Arts Council England, which distributes public funding to the arts. Among the options cited was a hotel levy, a policy being consulted on.But Alison Cole, the director of the Cultural Policy Unit thinktank, said charging international tourists would be a “very bad idea”.“There’s a much better way to save our wonderful civic museums and cultural infrastructure across the country, and that we believe is a hotel levy,” she said

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Jimmy Kimmel on Trump’s election integrity push: ‘Like Bill Cosby telling you he’ll watch your drink for you’

Late-night hosts mocked Donald Trump’s mail-in voting as he tries to end mail-in voting, ICE agents in US airports and a mysterious “gift” from Iran.On Tuesday’s Jimmy Kimmel Live!, the host checked in on Donald Trump’s efforts to pass the so-called Save America act. The sweeping restrictive voting bill would require proof of US citizenship for new voters and end mail-in voting, or what Trump called “mail-in cheating”.“That’s right, he prefers in-person cheating,” Kimmel quipped.“He keeps saying that it was brought to his attention today that we’re the only country that does mail-in voting – when is someone going to step in and tell him that’s not true?” he continued

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What’s the best material for a chopping board, and how to avoid mould?

I saw an influencer advocating for titanium chopping boards. Are they really the way to go? If not, which material is best? My wooden one has some black mould.Lenka, by email“From the off, no!” says Itamar Srulovich, whose latest cookbook, Honey & Co Daily, co-authored by Sarit Packer, is published later this spring. “The technology of chopping boards works, it’s bulletproof – this is criminal!” Sam Clark, co-founder of London’s Moro and Morito, couldn’t agree more: “The idea of chopping on a titanium board, with metal against metal, sends shivers down my spine,” he says.Of course, the surface on which you choose to chop will impact your knife, and for Milli Taylor, who is behind the When in Rome Substack, she “couldn’t imagine anything worse than titanium”

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Spring’s bounty: what to sow, plant, prune, harvest and eat

ElderflowerPick on the sunniest May days, when their scent is heady and sweet, to infuse for cordial. For a truly special tipple, pour a litre of gin into a large, shallow dish, and stand as many elderflower heads, florets down, as fit for two hours. Drain, bottle, and enjoy with tonic and ice on a warm evening.RhubarbThe world’s finest rhubarb comes from a few square miles of Yorkshire thanks to a combination of climate, soil and culture. A delicious treat for the freshest stalks: dip raw in the syrup of a jar of stem ginger and nibble

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‘I’d smoke Biscoff if I could’: how a little Belgian biscuit became a social media sensation

Biscoff-based recipes are breaking the internet – everything from cheesecakes and milkshakes to prawn dishes and salads. A few traditionalists are even enjoying the biscuits on their own. What’s behind this sweet success story?Around 15 years ago, Ashley Markle was admitted into a secret world, introduced to the treasures of an exclusive supply chain. She was staying at her aunt’s house and, one morning, when her aunt made her a coffee, she placed a little plastic-wrapped biscuit on the side. “I’d never seen them before,” says Markle

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Move over, pistachio – it’s pecan time! The food trends hotlist

Intercultural cuisinesFrom Indo-Chinese and Taiwanese-Tex Mex, to Viet-Cajun and Cape-Malay, brace your tastebuds for culinary cultures colliding in the most delicious ways.PecanMove aside pistachio, this season is all about butter-pecan ice-cream, pecan pie, pecan dukkah, cinnamon Meshuga, and pecan frosted German chocolate cake.PostbioticsBioactive compounds such as lactic acid and butyrate, that are the end-product of good bacteria in our guts fermenting prebiotic fibre. Could they help maintain a healthy microbiome?Cambodian foodAmong the oldest Southeast Asian cuisines, Cambodian food combines freshness with aromatic complexity using ingredients such as kampot pepper, lime leaves, shrimp paste, holy basil and vinegar (check out Mamapen in Soho, London, by chef Kaneda Pen).Hi-fi Listening barsLow-lit establishments where vinyl records, exquisite small plates and discerning cocktails come together in harmony

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Let them eat 1,600 cakes: inside Australia’s first Cake Picnic

Baker Alice Bennett, also known as Miss Trixie Drinks Tea, is the self-proclaimed queen of cakes in Melbourne. She assumes her cheeky email signature is why she was tapped as an assistant judge at Australia’s inaugural Cake Picnic. When the global phenomenon descended on Kings Domain in Melbourne last Saturday, 1,600 cakes were artfully presented and then summarily devoured as part of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival (MFWF).Created in San Francisco in 2024 by amateur baking enthusiast Elisa Sunga, the first Cake Picnic was conceived as a way for the Californian to eat more cake than she could be bothered to bake. Her event has now toured nine cities, and will be visiting Sydney on Saturday 28 March

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Joe Woodhouse’s recipes for orecchiette with chickpeas, and polenta chips with saucy chickpeas

I love pasta sauces that come together while the pasta is cooking. This one is lovely and wholesome, great for when the weather starts to warm up a little, and one of those that you can make pretty much year-round. The polenta chips, meanwhile, came about when I wanted to bulk up a plate of beans without the mess (and the pan of hot oil) that comes with making chips. The polenta can be made and set ahead, either during the day or the night before, or it will sit happily in the fridge for a couple of days.Sub in other green veg, such as shredded cavolo nero or even sliced courgettes

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Fewer eggs, higher prices: Cadbury ‘doubled down’ on Easter chocolate shrinkflation, Choice finds

This year’s Easter baskets may be under-egged, as boxes of the festive chocolate treats become smaller and more expensive. An annual price comparison by Australia’s consumer watchdog has found that the cost of “pretty much all chocolate products” in the Easter egg category has gone up, said Choice journalist Liam Kennedy. But while most products have stayed the same size, some have been hit by shrinkflation as well.Cadbury are “definitely our main culprit”, Kennedy said. In 2025, Choice found that the brand’s largest pack of hollow Easter eggs reduced from 408g to 374g, while increasing in price from $12

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Welcome to the United States of Mancunia

A new wave of hyper-regional hoagies, subs and pizzas are taking over Manchester’s food scene. But are they really as American as apple pie?It’s just after midday, on a chilly, wind-whipped Friday in central Manchester, and an ever-growing crowd of people in puffer jackets is spilling out from a Chinatown service alley. A few yards away, there’s another huddle of bundled-up figures, dipping into capacious paper bags to set up an improvised picnic on the junction boxes outside a corner pub. Fistfuls of crinkle-cut chips are snaffled, cans of pop are sipped, and, despite the pervading scent of bin juice and fried chicken, enormous, truncheon-sized sandwiches are unwrapped and messily dispatched.It looks a little like a staged re-enactment of Covid-era dining practices

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How to make the perfect cheese khachapuri – recipe | Felicity Cloake's How to make the perfect …

The first time I encountered what Tiko Tuskadze describes as “perhaps the most iconic of all Georgian dishes” was in her London restaurant, Little Georgia, back in the days when it was a tiny space on Broadway Market. If “traditional cheesebread … baked to order” sounded good on the menu, the reality of khachapuri was even better: a golden round of fluffy, buttery bread spilling forth frills of hot, salty dairy on to the plate (this is the kind of thing that passes for fast food in Georgia, according to Silvena Rowe, which makes me feel as if we’ve been slightly short-changed.)Tuskadze goes on to explain in her book Supra that there are “as many variations … as there are families in Georgia” – the boat-shaped, open adjaruili that Polina Chesnakova notes has “taken the internet by storm”, the Ossetian mashed potato variety and the Gurian take with hard-boiled eggs and a “supremely fluffy, slightly oniony, soufflé-like cheese filling”, which inspires Caroline Eden to share with readers of her book Green Mountains the glorious Georgian word shemomechama, “which loosely translates as, ‘I accidentally ate the whole thing’”. Here, however, I’m going to concentrate on what Chesnakova says is “by far the one most commonly consumed in Georgia itself”, and also the one that reminds Tuskadze most of home, namely imeruli khachapuri, originally from the west-central region of Imereti, which is “essentially a flat bread stuffed with buttery imeruli cheese curds and cooked on the stovetop”. Need I say more?After noting that the shape and filling varies according to region, Darra Goldstein writes in her book The Georgian Feast that, similarly, “the dough can be yeasty with a thick crust, many-layered and flaky, or tender and cake-like”, but “at home, khachapuri is more often made without yeast, with baking soda (a European import) or yoghurt used to tenderise the dough”

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Cooking with Angela Hartnett: ‘I love food, but I don’t need to talk about it 24/7’

Angela Hartnett’s home kitchen isn’t a place you could recreate, however much Le Creuset you bought. A basement in east London, it has the relaxed timelessness of a villa in a Sally Rooney novel, but the embedded knowledge of a Michelin-starred chef who’s been cooking since she worked in her family’s chippy 40 and a bit years ago (she’s now 57) – every utensil exactly where your hand would be looking for it, everything mysteriously the right size.Today she’s making a poached chicken with spring vegetables. It sounds simple, and it’s maybe the fundamental paradox of food that the simpler a dish – the fewer the ingredients, the less fussing about – the easier it is to screw up. Poached chicken can come out the colour of over-washed underpants, although, to be fair, still taste delicious

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Slop it like it’s hot: the rise of build-your-own takeaway salad bowls

Few things have killed the leisurely lunch like capitalism, but to really see this in action, the food court of London’s financial shadowland, Canary Wharf, is a good place to start. Wandering the warren of Prets and Itsus are Deliveroo riders and suits-on-the-clock. And they’re usually carrying the same thing: a nice big bowl of slop.A slop bowl is the universal term for a mishmash of pick-your-own dishes assembled and sold in fast-casual spots that have become the de facto working lunch. The contents vary (they tend to feature Asian and eastern Mediterranean dishes) but as the name suggests, it is always served in a bowl, and by the time you’ve got to your desk, has usually become slop

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Osteria Vibrato, London W1: “Worth singing loudly about” – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

Osteria Vibrato appeared last month on Greek Street, Soho, feeling to any passerby just like any other neutral-fronted Italian restaurant in this pasta-swamped part of the capital. Not much to see here. Pushing your face against the window wouldn’t achieve much, either, apart from an unsightly smear.Meanwhile, all the in-the-know people – that bunch of infuriating, generously paunched “foodies” who keep London restaurant gossip alive – understood that this particular osteria is the latest opening by Charlie Mellor, former proprietor of the Laughing Heart in Hackney, which opened in 2016 and very quickly became favoured by chefs and industry media types alike, because it took food very seriously, stayed open late and danced a dainty line between debauched and old-school cosseting. It sold pumpkin cappelletti with sage, and chicken liver paté with crisp chicken skin and jellied walnut liqueur