Slurp the blues away: Ravinder Bhogal’s recipes for winter noodle soup-stews
One of the best things for lifting deflated spirits is a deep bowl of steaming, restorative soup – perfect for warming the places your old woolly jumper can’t reach.I love the romance and cosiness of creamy European soups drunk straight out of a mug around a fire in November, but in the icy tundra that is January I need something with more heat and intensity, something sustaining, spicy, gutsy and textured, so that I need a fork or chopsticks to eat it, rather than just a spoon.These punchy soups are simply rapture in a bowl, and make for extremely satisfying slurping.Khao swe is a Burmese noodle soup with hot coconut broth, springy noodles and a madness of garnishes, from boiled eggs to peanuts or crisp shallots.Feel free to swap out the poultry for vegetables such as pumpkin or tofu, or seafood such as prawns.
Prep 15 min Cook 40 min Serves 42 tbsp neutral oil, such as groundnut or avocado1 stick cinnamon 1 star anise2 red onions, peeled and sliced into very fine half-moons3 fat garlic cloves, peeled and finely crushed2½cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated1 long red chilli, finely chopped2 lemongrass sticks, white parts only, finely chopped6 makrut lime leaves, stalks removed, leaves finely chopped1 tsp kashmiri chilli powder1 tsp turmeric 3 tbsp gram flour 400ml chicken stock 400ml coconut milk8 skinless and boneless chicken thighs, cut into bite-size pieces2 tbsp fish sauceJuice of 1 juicy lime 1 tbsp palm sugar, or light brown sugar 250g flat rice noodles, or egg noodles, cooked according to packet instructionsTo garnish (optional)4 tbsp crisp shallots 40g chopped roasted peanuts1 handful freshly chopped coriander 4 chopped spring onions 4 hard-boiled eggs, halved4 lime wedges,Heat the oil in a large, deep saucepan or casserole.Add the cinnamon stick, star anise and onions, and saute over a medium-low heat until the onions are deep golden and caramelised.Add the garlic, ginger, chilli, lemongrass and lime leaves, and fry for a minute or two more, until fragrant.Sprinkle in the chilli powder, turmeric and gram flour, and fry for a minute, until toasty and aromatic.Stir in the stock and coconut milk, bring to a boil, then simmer for 10 minutes.
Add the chicken and simmer over a low heat until it’s cooked through and tender.Stir in the fish sauce, lime juice and sugar, taste and add more lime, sugar or fish sauce if needed.Divide the noodles between four bowls, ladle the khao swe over the top and serve with your chosen garnishes.Gujarati dal dhokla is one of my ultimate comfort foods, and this dish takes inspiration from that, except the dhokla (or pasta) part, which is normally made from scratch but which I’ve swapped here for pappardelle.Prep 20 min Cook 1 hr Serves 4200g toor dal (AKA split pigeon peas), washed very well1 long red chilli, cut into thick rings (pith and seeds discarded if you prefer less heat)1 tsp turmeric40g raw peanutsFor the tempering2 tbsp coconut oil 1 heaped tsp mustard seeds1 pinch asafoetida 15–20 fresh curry leaves1 tsp cumin seeds 1 cinnamon stick, broken up2 cloves 1 tbsp grated ginger 3 garlic cloves, peeled and blitzed2 green chillies, finely blitzed (pith and seeds discarded if you prefer less heat)1 heaped tsp tomato puree2 ripe tomatoes, pureed1 tbsp tamarind paste 2 tbsp grated jaggery, or soft brown sugar Sea saltJuice of 1 limeTo garnish250g fresh pappardelle, cooked according to packet instructions1 handful finely chopped coriander1 small red onion, peeled and finely choppedPut the toor dal, chilli, turmeric, peanuts and a litre and a half of water in a large saucepan, bring to a boil, then simmer over a low heat for 40-45 minutes, until soft and mushy.
In a second pan, heat the coconut oil, then add the mustard seeds and, as soon as they pop, stir in the asafoetida and curry leaves.Once the leaves crackle, add the cumin, cinnamon and cloves, fry briefly until fragrant, then stir in the ginger, garlic and chillies, and fry until cooked and fragrant.Add the tomato puree, pureed fresh tomatoes, tamarind and sugar, let the pan come to a bubble, then simmer for five minutes.Pour the tomato mix into the cooked lentils, add some water to make it soupy, then season with salt and cook for 10 minutes more.Finish with lime juice.
Divide the cooked pappardelle between four bowls, then ladle the dal on top, sprinkle over the coriander and red onions, and serve.This has all the big flavour of a dumpling soup, minus all the hard work and effort.Prep 10 min Cook 25 min Serves 4For the broth1 litre chicken ramen broth (such as the one by Itsu)50ml light soy sauce3cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into thin matchsticks3 spring onions, trimmed and cut into 5cm lengthsFor the dumpling filling 200g shiitake3 tbsp roughly chopped coriander2 spring onions, trimmed and roughly chopped2 tsp grated ginger 2 tsp sesame oil 300g minced pork Salt and black pepper24 dumpling wrappers,cut in half diagonally Chilli oil, to servePut all the ingredients for the broth in a large saucepan, bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to a simmer and leave to cook gently.Meanwhile, make the dumplings.Combine the shiitake, coriander, spring onions, ginger and sesame oil in a small food processor, then process until finely chopped.
Add the pork, process again to combine, then season to taste,Roll the mix into walnut-sized balls (you should end up with about 25 in total), then gently drop them into the soup and simmer for about four minutes, until cooked through,Add the halved dumpling wrappers to the pot, cook for a further 30 seconds, or until al dente, then ladle into bowls and serve with your favourite chilli oil,
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