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From fritters to pizza, there’s more to pumpkin season than soups and carving

3 days ago
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G’day! The last time I wrote to you was in the midst of our Australian winter, as the wind tippity-tapped tree-branch morse code on the windows and I tried to summon spring with the might of several tins of summer tomatoes and some inspiration from the Feast recipe archives,Well, allegedly, our spring has sprung, though you wouldn’t be able to tell, seeing as one of the challenges – or joys – of living in Melbourne is that this city’s concept of “seasons” is a little more fluid than most,Blustery winds have kept the trees dancing, wreaking havoc on the darling buds of May – sorry, October – and sending enthusiastically woven “cobwebs” and other Halloween paraphernalia flying,But I can guess which vegetable is going to be on your supermarket shelf, no matter which side of the international date line you are on: pumpkin! This is the time of year when European eaters are reaching for pumpkins to make soups and curries, while many across the Atlantic are mostly just carving them up,So, how to find more things to do with pumpkin than souping or sculpting? It helps to remember that pumpkin is also known as winter squash – and what’s summer squash? Courgettes or, as I say, zucchini.

So anything courgettes were doing in the warmer days, pumpkins and butternut squash can do once the trees start dancing.Georgina Hayden’s sun-drenched roast courgettes with preserved lemon (pictured below) could be swapped with roast chunks of pumpkin, treated in pretty much the same way and timed for closer to 30 to 40 minutes in the oven.Similarly, Tom Hunt’s summer squash scarpaccia, a crunchy, gluten-free option for pizza lovers that harnesses the power of polenta, can be pumped up with thinly sliced pumpkin instead.The moisture and sweetness in these seasonal squashes is what makes them such a fabulous addition to fritters and loaves.Between you and me, my pumpkin and chickpea fritters (pictured top) are a total riff on my chickpea and zucchini free-for-all fritters.

And just imagine Yotam Ottolenghi’s courgette and tomato loaf made with grated pumpkin and jarred peppers instead.Delish!I even love slipping pumpkin – and courgettes, for that matter – into sweet bakes.Thomasina Miers’s courgette, pistachio and lemon syrup cake, for instance, could easily be made with grated pumpkin instead.I find grating pumpkin on a box grater better for baking, because it breaks up more of the pumpkin’s cell structure and helps access more of its naturally sweet juiciness.You’ll have similar success with Ravneet Gill’s mini courgette and olive oil cakes, and they may even be a lovely alternative to offer trick or treaters … if you’re feeling generous enough to share, that is.

If you’ve always found pumpkin a little on the mushy side, treat it like a standing rib roast and leave it in a cool, dry place for a month or so to cure, dry out and intensify in sweetness; just remember to give it the odd turn every now and then, a tip I learned from Aussie chef Simon Bryant, one half of legendary The Cook & The Chef.Dinner turns into lunch | I’ve just come home from Victoria’s Good Food Guide awards, which celebrate the state’s many fine restaurants and showcase some of the city’s best casual diners with little stalls out the front.Lulu’s Char Koay Teow was on the woks, tossing succulent flat rice noodles with salted egg yolk and crunchy pork crackling, topped with skewers of Aurum Poultry Co cockerel.This Malaysian hawker-style hole-in-the-wall is one of our family favourites on Melbourne’s Hardware Lane, so I couldn’t resist asking if they’d sneak me a bowl’s worth for my daughter’s school lunchbox the next day.Hopefully, that made up for missing her bedtime.

Sign up to FeastRecipes from all our star cooks, seasonal eating ideas and restaurant reviews,Get our best food writing every weekafter newsletter promotionWhat I read | I had the pleasure of catching up with London-based food writer and psychologist Helen Goh while she was in Australia, digging into crispy rice with pandan oil and mango makrut sorbet at Ace Hotel Sydney’s rooftop restaurant Kiln, and sharing the stage to discuss her new book Baking & the Meaning of Life,With such a lofty title, you’d expect not just profiteroles but profundity,Helen manages to explain what it takes to live a meaningful life with the same brevity and precision that we’ve come to expect from her recipes (such as her delicious-sounding Halloween forest floor cake, pictured above),Bricking it | As I go into the final stretch on my next cookbook manuscript, I’ve had a productivity breakthrough that’s revolutionising my meal times: a Brick! It’s a physical device that you scan to switch off whatever parts of your phone you’d like to limit access to.

Then you put it out of reach, forcing you to consider whether you really need to scroll right now,I’ve gained hours back and even find myself enjoying meal times,I’m probably nicer to be around, too,If you want to read the complete version of this newsletter please subscribe to receive Feast in your inbox every Thursday
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From fritters to pizza, there’s more to pumpkin season than soups and carving

G’day! The last time I wrote to you was in the midst of our Australian winter, as the wind tippity-tapped tree-branch morse code on the windows and I tried to summon spring with the might of several tins of summer tomatoes and some inspiration from the Feast recipe archives.Well, allegedly, our spring has sprung, though you wouldn’t be able to tell, seeing as one of the challenges – or joys – of living in Melbourne is that this city’s concept of “seasons” is a little more fluid than most. Blustery winds have kept the trees dancing, wreaking havoc on the darling buds of May – sorry, October – and sending enthusiastically woven “cobwebs” and other Halloween paraphernalia flying.But I can guess which vegetable is going to be on your supermarket shelf, no matter which side of the international date line you are on: pumpkin! This is the time of year when European eaters are reaching for pumpkins to make soups and curries, while many across the Atlantic are mostly just carving them up. So, how to find more things to do with pumpkin than souping or sculpting? It helps to remember that pumpkin is also known as winter squash – and what’s summer squash? Courgettes or, as I say, zucchini

3 days ago
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Benjamina Ebuehi’s recipe for ginger biscuit s’mores | The sweet spot

What’s Bonfire Night without some toasty, gooey marshmallows? And it’s only right to have them in a s’more, the American classic that’s also now part of the festivities over on this side of the pond. Digestive biscuits are typically the go-to, but I like to add extra flavour, depth and texture by using ginger oaty biscuits instead. These are quick to put together and don’t require any chilling. Ideally, the s’mores would be made over a real fire, but a blowtorch or hot grill will do the job, too.Prep 5 min Cook 30 min Makes 9100g unsalted butter 25g honey 130g plain flour 120g caster sugar 45g oats 2 tsp ground ginger ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda ½ tsp salt 9 squares dark chocolate 9 marshmallows Flaky sea saltHeat the oven to 190C (170C fan)/375F/gas 5 and line two oven trays with baking paper

3 days ago
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How to turn pastry scraps into a quick and tasty caramelised onion tart – recipe | Waste not

This is my quick version of pissaladière, and it transforms a small amount of leftover pastry scraps into a spontaneous treat. Keep and combine any trimmings into a ball and re-roll as and when required. Pastry keeps well in the freezer, and by skipping two time-consuming steps in the traditional recipe – that is, making the pastry and caramelising the onions – this one comes together about an hour faster. Instead, the onions are cooked upside down, steaming and caramelising beneath a blanket of pastry with anchovies and black olives for a fast, fun twist on a French classic. And if you have less pastry, you can always halve the recipe

5 days ago
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Australian supermarket chocolate ice-cream taste test: ‘My scorecard read simply: “I’m going to buy it”’

Sweet memory lane or boulevard of broken creams? Nicholas Jordan and friends sample 23 tubs in search of nostalgia, glee and chocolate excessIf you value our independent journalism, we hope you’ll consider supporting us todayGet our weekend culture and lifestyle emailI grew up in a house barren of treats – there was no regular supply of chocolate, snakes, sour lollies or caramels. There was one exception: ice-cream, and I was mostly free to eat it whenever I wanted. That constant, childhood joy was the start of a storied love affair. Later, when I had money to buy my lunch in high school, I would get a one-litre tub, a pair of spoons, and my friend and I would eat the entire thing and nothing else. Sometimes, if we were particularly greedy, we’d split a two-litre tub

6 days ago
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Sweet dreams? Healthy ways to put pudding back on the menu | Kitchen aide

I eat healthily, but my meals are never really complete without pudding. Yoghurt and stewed fruit aside, do you have any suggestions for what will hit the spot without verging too far into the unhealthy? Wendy, by emailThe truth is, you can’t often have your cake and eat it – or not a big piece, anyway. “My main piece of advice, which maybe isn’t all that welcome, is to keep to small portions,” says Brian Levy, author of Good & Sweet, in which his recipes contain no added sugar. “My grandma would keep mini chocolate bars and have just one, but that’s never really worked for me.”’Tis the season for stewed fruit, but have you tried Melissa Hemsley’s banana slices sandwiched together with peanut butter, half-dipped in melted chocolate and put in the freezer? (FYI the same tactic also works like a dream with dates

6 days ago
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José Pizarro’s recipe for pumpkin and spinach with pimenton

I grew up with the taste of pimentón de la vera, the smoky, fiery spice Spain embraced from the New World and made its own. Pimentón gives our food its soul. One of the dishes everyone loves back home is espinacas con garbanzos (spinach and chickpeas), which is it’s simple, nourishing and full of comfort. At this time of year, however, when the markets are overflowing with sweet pumpkins, I love adding them to the mix, too. Their gentle, autumnal sweetness lifts the spinach and chickpeas beautifully, and they combine to create a dish that we’ve been serving all month at my restaurant Lolo in south-east London

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