Portcullis gets royal breeders dreaming at Newmarket’s ancient first rite of spring

A picture


Captain Cook was a few months away from landfall after his first circumnavigation of the earth when the first ­Craven meeting was held on Newmarket heath in the spring of 1771,It is older than any of the Classics, and old enough too to have the great Potoooooooo – who got his name when a stable lad was unsure how to spell potatoes – on the Craven Stakes’s roll of honour in 1782,For a quarter of a millennium250 years, the first meeting of the year on the Rowley Mile at Newmarket has been Flat ­racing’s first rite of spring,“It’s what keeps everybody going,” Jason Singh, the marketing director of the famous bloodstock auction house Tattersalls, said here on Thursday, “and I speak as a breeder and racehorse owner myself as well as a sales company employee,“Every year, at this time of year, everybody has got hopes that the next horse they’ve bought is going to be the next superstar, and until it’s not, it could be.

In horse racing, you’ve got to be an optimist.If you were a realist, you wouldn’t own a racehorse, so it’s full of people who are optimistic about what the season holds, and the start of the Flat season is exactly that, everybody is full of hopes and dreams, until they’re not.”These days, the dreaming starts on Monday, when dozens of juveniles exercise – or “breeze” – at the racecourse before being sold at Tattersalls’ Breeze-Up Sale on Tuesday and Wednesday evening.While business this year was not as brisk as last year’s record-breaking sale, the firm still managed to shift 117 lots at an average price of 134,500gns (£141,000): a grand total of £16.5m-worth of hope.

Stuart Williams, whose 50-horse stable less than two miles from the course is not big by Newmarket standards, also epitomised the Craven spirit after winning the Nell Gwyn Stakes, a trial for next month’s 1,000 Guineas, with the 50-1 shot Azleet on Wednesday.“We don’t get a chance to train a horse like this very often,” he said, “so why not go for the Guineas?”And down in the winner’s enclosure after Thursday’s Wood Ditton Stakes, John Warren, racing manager to royalty for a quarter of a century, was allowing his imagination to run away with him just a little, too.The Wood Ditton is perhaps the Craven meeting’s definitive race for dreamers, as the conditions stipulate that it is open only to unraced three-year-olds.It is debs’ ball for sons of Frankel, Kingman and other top-end stallions, and this year’s winner, John Gosden’s Portcullis, was as impressive as any in recent memory.Portcullis was bred by King Charles and carries the famous royal colours, but the plan to send his mother, Castle Lady, to be covered by the mighty Frankel was one of the last to be conceived by the late Queen Elizabeth II.

Like many of the runners in Thursday’s race, he looked clueless in the early stages but visibly learned on the job for the remaining three-quarters of a mile and eventually crossed the line nearly six lengths clear of the runner-up.Ayr:1.45 Triple Crown Ted 2.20 Marty McFly 2.55 Dropmeatthestation 3.

30 Donnacha 4.05 A Perfect Day 4.43 Woodland Park 5.15 GuchenNewbury; 1.57 Napa 2.

32 Tarrant 3.07 Semper Femina 3.42 Shabab Al Ahli 4.20 Maxident 4.55 Colori Forever (nap) 5.

25 Cindy Lou WhoWolverhampton: 2,08 Travel Agent 2,43 Afton Down 3,18 Solar Pass (nb) 3,53 Gold Star Hero 4.

25 Grow Old With Me 5,05 Tryst 5,35 IgnitionBath: 4,15 Man Of The Sea 4,50 Wopbopaloomop 5.

20 Justcallmepete 5,52 Alvin 6,22 Ourbren 6,52 Chapman’s Peak 7,22 My Ambition 7.

52 EutropiaExeter: 5.10 October Hill 5.40 Green Sky 6.10 Moonlight Artist 6.40 Blue In The West 7.

10 Celtic Queen 7.40 Dunstall Star“He seems a bit of a natural, which is good,” Warren said.“I’m going to call it a joint effort by all [the late queen and the current king and queen].“What makes it exciting is to think that we’re only on the first rung.When they’re bred like that, do it like that and they’re in great hands … Ryan [Moore, the winner’s jockey] said something like ‘I think you can be brave’, so that was indicative of the feel he got from the horse.

“I’m thrilled for the king and queen as they’re getting so much pleasure out of their horses,I never thought they would get as much pleasure as they are,I always thought the queen might, but I thought the king might be so caught up with so many other things,”There is enough time between the Craven and Royal Ascot for Portcullis to have another run, and news of his next destination will be keenly awaited,There is no doubt about where Gosden’s second winner of the day will be heading, though, as like so many Craven Stakes winners before him Oxagon will run next in the 2,000 Guineas, over the same course and distance on 2 May.

The 2,000 Guineas is the only British Classic to elude Gosden over the course of a 43-year training career, and his disappointments in the race have included Field Of Gold, last year’s Craven Stakes winner and the hot Guineas favourite, who went down to a half-length defeat.“It doesn’t worry me that I’ve never won it,” he said.“Everyone thinks I have sleepless nights about it.” Maybe so, but Gosden was still prominent among the dreamers as the 2026 ­Craven meeting drew to a close.
A picture

How to turn old bread into a brilliant Italian cake – recipe | Waste not

Old sourdough is my secret ingredient. To stop it going mouldy, I take it out of any plastic packaging and keep it in the bread bin with plenty of airflow around it – that way, it will dry out slowly, rather than turning mouldy. Any odds and ends, meanwhile, I store in a cloth bag to use in various dishes, from pangrattato (or poor man’s parmesan) to strata, a savoury bread-and-butter pudding.My new favourite recipe discovery for using up stale bread is today’s torta paesana, or village cake, from Lombardy. The best way I can come up with to describe it is that it’s a bit like a firm baked custard

A picture

Roast chicken, cheesy scones and a genius cocktail: Ravinder Bhogal’s recipes for cooking with lime pickle

I’m obsessed with lime pickle. It’s savoury, sour, funky, spicy and full of bold personality that enlivens anything it’s smeared on. It’s made by salting and fermenting limes with chillies and spices for a fierce, flavour-packed condiment that’s traditionally eaten as a side to poppadoms or with simple dal and rice. Over the years, I have also folded it into grilled cheese toasties, marinades for fat prawns to barbecue in the summer or made compound butters with it to smother over sweet potatoes before roasting. It’s an instant flavour bomb and my pantry is never without a jar

A picture

Vegemite is recognised globally – but how many people know Milo was invented in Australia?

The chocolate malt powder is sold in more than 40 countries, and Australian cafe owners say there’s ‘jingoistic pride’ in serving it on their menusGet our weekend culture and lifestyle emailWhen I order the jumbo-sized Milo Godzilla at Ho Jiak in Sydney’s Haymarket, it arrives as advertised – it’s comically large. The Malaysian restaurant prepares the drink by swirling Milo powder with hot water, adding sweet drizzles of condensed milk then chilling the mix with ice. Scoops of ice-cream are added and extra choc-malt powder is showered on top. Served in a one-litre jug, it’s so big I can’t finish it solo: staff hand me three takeaway cups to transport the leftovers.Like many beloved Milo drinks, the Godzilla is native to south-east Asia

A picture

What can I do with leftover rice? | Kitchen aide

How do I store cooked rice safely, and what can I make with it the next day?Michael, by email“It’s a bit of a running joke with rice, because I think of all the people in China who aren’t spreading their leftover rice immediately on to a tray to cool and are still alive,” says Amy Poon, of Poon’s at Somerset House in London. “But I have to be responsible and say: cool the rice as quickly as possible, within the hour, and put it in an airtight container and pop it in the fridge [or freezer] straight away.” The reason being, as food science guru Harold McGee notes in his bible On Food & Cooking, “Raw rice almost always carries dormant spores of the bacterium Bacillus cereus, which produces powerful gastrointestinal toxins. The spores can tolerate high temperatures, and some survive cooking.” In short: good storage practices will prevent bacterial growth, not to mention open a whole world of dinner opportunities

A picture

José Pizarro’s recipe for nettle (or wild garlic) and goat’s cheese tortilla

When I was growing up in the small village of Talaván in Extremadura, Spain, we never ate nettles. They were wild plants that grew along the edges of the fields, and the sort you tried to avoid: like many children, I learned about them the hard way, brushing against them while playing and getting stung. It was only when I came to the UK that I first saw nettles used in cooking, which surprised me: suddenly, this wild plant had a place in the kitchen. Now, whenever I visit my mum, Isabel, I see them everywhere. It makes me smile to think that at this year’s Spring Garden at the Chelsea flower show, I will be cooking among a world of magnificent plants and gardens

A picture

Gone from shop shelves, but not forgotten | Letters

How lucky for Adrian Chiles that he didn’t live in the German Democratic Republic (Rose’s Lime Marmalade? Gone. Dark chocolate Bounty? No more. But what about their heartbroken fans?, 8 April). After reunification, there were street markets selling the last of products from the old days, and there was an exhibition in a national museum – memorably called “They’ve even taken our tomato ketchup” – lamenting the loss of many food products and other features of former times, such as children’s TV programmes.Derek JanesDuns, Scottish Borders Can Adrian Chiles tell me where to find Halls’ chocolate sour lemons? Maybe they stopped being made because they turned your tongue black, but they tasted great