Before I wrote this recipe, it hadn’t occurred to me that the word “arancini” means “little oranges”, and, plump, round and golden as they are, it makes sense, too.Indeed, these robust rice balls, which are said to have come to Sicily with Arab invaders in the 10th century, are now, according to the late Antonio Carluccio, the local equivalent of a sandwich lunch.Prep 25 min Cook 45 min Makes 8 large ballsFor the risotto700ml chicken stock, or vegetable stock100ml white wine (optional)250g short-grain rice (eg, arborio)½ tsp salt, plus extra to season1 very generous pinch saffron (optional)50g parmesan, or grano padano or vegetarian alternative, gratedBlack pepperFor the arancini2 eggs plus 1 egg yolk100g mozzarella, drained and cut into chunksOptional other fillings of your choice – meat ragu, pesto, sauteed mushrooms, wilted or defrosted greens170g plain flour 250g fine dried breadcrumbs (preferably not panko)Neutral oil, for fryingFlaky sea salt, to finish (optional)Risotto is a northern Italian dish, so Sicilian arancini weren’t designed with it in mind, but they are great vehicles for risotto leftovers.My recipe is intended for 700g cooked rice, but adjust the fillings and coating according to what you have; these are also a great way to repurpose small amounts of ragu, cooked vegetables, fish or meat.If you’re cooking the rice from scratch, put the stock and wine (or substitute 100ml extra stock, if you prefer) in a medium pan and bring to a boil – I like chicken stock, because I find it the most neutrally savoury, but use whatever suits the fillings you’re using.

A wobbly stock with plenty of gelatine is ideal to give the rice richness.Tip in the rice (as well as arborio, carnaroli and other Italian varieties, sushi or even pudding rice will work well here, too), and season as you see fit.Saffron, as used in the classic Milanese risotto, is a lovely choice here, because it gives the arancini a fittingly golden colour, but flavour the base with whatever herbs and spices you fancy, along with the salt.Bring the liquid back up to a boil, then turn down the heat and leave to simmer for about 20 minutes, until the rice absorbs the stock and is the consistency of thick porridge.Stir in the parmesan, season to taste, leave to cool, then chill in the fridge (spread out the rice in a tray to hasten this, if need be).

Beat one egg with the egg yolk, then stir this into the cooled cooked rice.Divide into eight balls (or more if you’d prefer your arancini to be bite-size) – the mixture will be sticky! – then flatten each one slightly.Top with a chunk or two of mozzarella and any other filings you fancy, then wrap and close the rice around it.Roll each arancini ball until smooth and round, then chill until you want to cook them.Beat the remaining egg, mix this in a bowl with the flour and enough water (about 175ml) to make a thick batter, and season.

Put the breadcrumbs in another, shallower bowl.Put oil in a deep pan so it’s no more than a third full, then heat it to 175C, or until a breadcrumb sizzles on contact (alternatively, use a deep-fat fryer).While the oil is heating up, dip each rice ball in the batter to coat, then put it in the bowl of breadcrumbs and heap these on top to cover (you’ll likely have leftover crumbs, but it’s hard to do this using less).Shake off any excess crumbs, then repeat with the remaining arancini.Have ready a tray lined with paper towels near the hob.

Fry in batches for about five minutes, turning as necessary, until golden brown all over.Make sure the oil comes back up to temperature between batches – if you don’t do this, or if you overcrowd the pan, the oil will be too cool and your arancini will end up greasy.Conversely, if the oil is too hot, the outsides will burn before the cheese melts.Drain on the paper-lined tray and, while they’re still warm, sprinkle with a little salt.Serve hot or cold; if the latter, the cheese will be less melty, but they do make a very good portable snack or lunch.

Note also that, if you do want to serve them hot, they can be made in advance up to the end of step 5,Felicity Cloake’s debut novel, The Underdog, is published by Fourth Estate at £16,99,To order a copy for £15,29, go to guardianbookshop.

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