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Rum is booming but only Jamaican classics have the true funk

1 day ago
A picture


After Hurricane Melissa hit Jamaica last October, rum lovers anxiously awaited news from the island’s six distilleries,Hampden Estate, in the parish of Trelawney to the north, was right in the hurricane’s path, and the furious winds deprived its historic buildings of their roofs and the palm trees of their fronds,Then came more alarming rumours: the dunder pits had overflowed,The Guardian’s journalism is independent,We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link.

Learn more.Dunder pit? This is the one of the most distinctive features of traditional Jamaican rum, a style exemplified by Hampden, which has been in operation since 1753.You typically make rum by fermenting molasses and/or sugar cane juice into an alcoholic “wash”, then distil that into a potent liquor, but local distillers developed several strategies to oomph up the flavour.Dunder is the leftover liquid from the still, and it’s lobbed into the next fermentation for its funky notes, a bit like a sourdough starter.At Hampden, they also use muck, an outrageously smelly, semi-sentient soup containing countless billions of yeast bacteria, plus various bits of decomposing, well, stuff.

I’m not sure what would happen if you fell in: possibly die, or perhaps be granted infinite powers, Obelix-style.Then there’s the fermentation process itself: most distilleries use generic industrial yeasts, which typically convert sugars to alcohol over a couple of days, but at Hampden they harness wild yeasts, which can take weeks.Incidentally, Andrew Hussey, Hampden’s owner, has reported that production is now safe, though the communities who live and work around the distillery remain badly affected.We’ve heard a lot about the miraculous powers of fermented foods such as kimchi and kefir, and I’m not going to pretend that Jamaican rum will do anything for your microbiome, but these tiny universes of microbes do have miraculous effects on flavour, giving Jamaican rum its distinctive, bassy funk, or hogo.Hampden’s signature 1753 blend, for instance, has rich tropical fruit, deep baking aromas, nail varnish, glue, Marmite, leather, spice, animal spirits.

Try it neat or in a Kingston negroni, for which it’s subbed in for the usual gin,Rum has boomed in recent years, and really why wouldn’t it? It’s approachable and mixable, less up itself than scotch or cognac, and has the most interesting history, too,Alas, however, it is more “spiced rum” that has gained favour with British drinkers – a generic, sweetened spirit mixed with aggressive vanilla, much of it fit only for knocking back pre-amputation,Hampden however, exemplifies a welcome counter-trend in the Caribbean for distilleries to lean on their own distinctive rum-making traditions and produce liquids that are as much an expression of place as wine is,That hasn’t always been a given, thanks to the vagaries of colonialism and its illegitimate heir, capitalism.

Jamaica is synonymous with rum, but for decades most of its rum was sold in bulk to exporters and blended and aged in Europe,However, since it gained a Geographical Indication for rum in 2016, local producers have been working hard to make Jamaican rum Jamaican again,The oldest surviving distillery, Appleton Estate (1749!) was the first to employ a Jamaican female master blender, the redoubtable Joy Spence, and now ages all of its rums on the island, which concentrates those tropical flavours,Then there is Worthy Park in the south, where they have revived sugar cane production to make a rum that is truly an expression of its locale,You could equally do far worse than Wray & Nephew, the iconic overproof white rum that is far and away the most popular on the island itself, and makes an evil daiquiri; 90% of Jamaicans cannot be wrong.

Hampden Estate 1753 £57.25 (700ml; on offer) The Whisky Exchange, 46%.An outrageous liquid: like tropical fruit, spice and kerosene put through a subwoofer.Shines through just about any mixer.Appleton 8-Year Old Reserve Blend £28 (700ml) Majestic, 43%.

One of the best-value spirits around,Banana, apricot, toffee, funk,Great in a rum old fashioned,Worthy Park Single Estate Reserve £46,95 (700ml) Master of Malt, 45%.

Unlike most rum producers, Worthy Park grows its own sugar cane,This is a lovely rum, rich in mango, butter and tobacco,Wray & Nephew Overproof £31 (700ml) Tesco, 63%,A true Jamaican icon, and far better than many more revered spirits,Mix with grapefruit soda.

A little goes a long way,
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Rum is booming but only Jamaican classics have the true funk

After Hurricane Melissa hit Jamaica last October, rum lovers anxiously awaited news from the island’s six distilleries. Hampden Estate, in the parish of Trelawney to the north, was right in the hurricane’s path, and the furious winds deprived its historic buildings of their roofs and the palm trees of their fronds. Then came more alarming rumours: the dunder pits had overflowed.The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link

1 day ago
A picture

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for pasta e fagioli with coconut, spring onion, chilli and lemon | A kitchen in Rome

Throughout the 1990s and into the early 2000s, under the banner of story, art and folklore, the Roman publishing house Newton Compton published a series of 27 books about regional Italian cooking. Some, such as Jeanne Carola Francesconi’s epic 1965 La Cucina Napoletana, were reprints of established books, while others were specially commissioned for the series. There is considerable variation; some of the 20 regions occupy 650 densely filled pages, sometimes spread over two volumes, while other regions have 236 pages with larger fonts, with everything in between. All of which is great, although I can’t help feeling affectionate towards the regions with 14-point font.In the face of the vast variation of regional culinary habits, knowledge and rituals, I also feel affectionate towards the common traditions; those that are specific to a place, but at the same time that cross local and national borders, as well as for the stories of the ingredients

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‘We want to make jacket potatoes sexy again!’: how the humble spud became a fast food sensation

After Spudulike closed in 2024, the reign of the jacket potato seemed over in the UK. But now the favourite is back, piled with new toppings, sold by new companies and promoted all over social media by potato influencersThey were once a lunch option that inspired little excitement – but the jacket potato’s time has finally come. After decades in epicurean exile, the humble spud has made a roaring comeback in the UK and piqued the interest of foodies across the world. A-listers, tourists and trend-hopping teenagers are queueing for hours to get their hands on them. For Jacob Nelson, who sells loaded spuds that have gone super-viral on social media, this was all part of the plan

1 day ago
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How to turn a cauliflower into ‘risotto’ – recipe | Waste not

I’m fasting for three days a week for the whole of this month. It’s not for everyone, I know, and it’s important to talk to your doctor first, but the benefits are well researched and include improved digestion and immune function, and lowered blood pressure. When we fast, the body goes into ketosis, which breaks down fat for energy, and to stay in ketosis afterwards it helps to reduce carbs and increase protein, which is where today’s low-carb, zero-waste recipe comes in.The humble cauliflower has had a rebrand over the past decade, as chefs and home cooks get more inventive with our seasonal produce. The leaves are incredibly nutritious and one of my favourite ingredients, not least because I always try to include a leafy green in our main meals for the health benefits

2 days ago
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Homemade Bounty bars, savoury granola and flapjacks: Melissa Hemsley’s recipes for healthy sweet treats

I love a Bounty, although I call them paradise bars. I also love matcha (and not only for its health-supporting benefits). Though my partner doesn’t enjoy drinking matcha tea, when I mix it into the sweetness of the coconut filling, even he’s on board. Then, a very munchable and grabbable savoury granola, and flapjacks that you can throw together in minutes for a week’s worth of on-the-go snacks.If I’m in a rush and don’t want to be individually dipping 24 chocolate bars, sometimes I put the coconut matcha mix in a large, wide tin to set, then simply drizzle the melted chocolate layer on top and chill

3 days ago
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He never warms the jars, so why doesn’t my son’s marmalade go mouldy?

When my son makes marmalade, he never warms the jars or uses circles of baking paper and cellophane – he just puts the lids on. It never goes mouldy, so am I wasting my time doing it the “proper” way?Dagna, Berkhamsted, HertsYou can’t get much sweeter than marmalade, and this is most likely the reason for both Dagna and her son’s success, despite their differing strategies. “The chance of mould developing is low because there’s so much sugar to balance the bitterness of the orange peel,” says Camilla Wynne, preserver and author of All That Crumbs Allow. “Mould needs water to do its thing, and sugar binds to water.” She recalls a former student who, like Dagna’s son, simply ladled her marmalade into jars and closed the lids

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