We may not be running out of gas but we still need a serious strategic gas reserve | Nils Pratley
Alarmed that Great Britain has only enough gas in storage to cover two days of consumption? Actually, Michael Shanks, the energy minister, is right that the bald statistic is not a reason to run for the hills.But he would help his case if he admitted that the long era of running a “just-in-time” approach to gas supplies looks increasingly unworkable.Shanks is obviously correct that Great Britain does not source its supplies from storage.About 75% of our gas comes from the North Sea – from domestic fields and via the 725-mile underwater Langeled pipeline from Norway – and neither source is affected by the war in Iran.As for imported liquefied natural gas (LNG), typically about 18% of supplies today, the market is disrupted now that Qatar, about a fifth of the global market, is not producing.
But the rest of the market is still operating, so it’s a question of paying nosebleed rates for shipments, probably from the US, which already dominates our LNG imports.And the final pieces in “the diverse and strong energy mix”, as Shanks described it, are the two-way interconnectors to the Netherlands and Belgium that plug Great Britain’s gas system into the continent’s.But here’s the rub: while the Great Britain gas set-up looks sufficiently secure for now, the war is demonstrating two reasons why more storage looks essential if energy shocks are becoming more frequent.And transition to an intermittent renewables-heavy power system offers a third reason.First, there could be a harder price crunch, say gas experts, if the war goes on for months and the LNG market becomes so dysfunctional that continental European countries can’t refill their storage sites, which are much bigger than Great Britain’s, over the summer.
That would set up a terrible dynamic for the winter in which Great Britain’s gas prices would have to trade at very fat premiums to attract flows across the interconnectors.In that case, it would be better to have our own strategic reserve to ride the bumps.Second, there’s the problem identified in a report by the government’s in-house energy system operator last year: what happens if a critical piece of kit – say an LNG import terminal (we only have three), or the vital Langeled pipeline – were to be out of action during a prolonged spell of cold weather in the dead of winter?The report was less than reassuring: there is an “emerging” risk of Britain running out of gas from 2030-31, particularly if decarbonisation efforts are behind schedule.The government is yet to respond but the Iran war will complicate matters.One of the report’s proposed remedies was additional LNG import capacity, which would help if Langeled were knocked out by, say, Russian sabotage.
But more LNG terminals would be useless if the problem is that LNG cargoes can’t be relied upon.In that case, the only real protection comes from having extra storage – the option successive governments have resisted on grounds of cost.Centrica’s Rough storage facility, off the coast of Yorkshire, was partly reopened after the price spike following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.But the company, having clocked up losses on Rough of £45m last year, stopped injecting as it waits to see if the government will agree a price-support deal.Third, there’s a problem identified by Dieter Helm, a leading energy economist, in a blistering report on Monday about the wider failures of Britain’s approach to gas.
Here’s a flavour: “The central pillar of energy policy should be security.It is no good being ‘green’ if you cannot defend your country.In the British case, a central piece should be a gas security policy, not bleating on and on about ‘getting out of gas’.We need gas and we will go on needing it for a long time to come.It is essential in the renewables strategy.
It is not fossil fuels versus renewables.The reality is that it is both and it is going to continue to be both.”One of Helm’s points is that intermittency of wind and solar generation renders gas power stations intermittent, too: operators don’t know how much gas they will need or when, so can’t write long-term contracts to secure supplies.Since the government’s clean power plan involves keeping the entire 35GW gas fleet on the system as backup, you would think this fundamental issue would get more ministerial attention.Helm’s solution: there needs to be a strategic gas reserve and gas power stations will have to be paid just to be available, whether through a Sizewell B-style funding model or some form of capacity contract (others argue for straightforward nationalisation).
Many factors, in other words, point to a need for more gas storage.As Helm argues, the dynamics of energy transition made the case anyway.But the Iran war, and geopolitical instability, are offering new reasons.The government can reassure us – fairly – that two days’ storage is fine today.But it still needs a strategy for a future that is arriving faster than it probably assumed.
How to make salt and pepper squid – recipe | Felicity Cloake's Masterclass
This crisp, salty, pungently aromatic dish is a strong contender to kick off my fantasy final meal – it wouldn’t really go with the steak frites and trifle to follow, but I find the combination of hot, crunchy batter and soft, creamy squid utterly irresistible. Happily, there’s no need to save it for the end times when it’s so easy to make for dinner tonight.Prep 10 min Cook 15 min Serves 2350g small sustainably-sourced squid, cleaned and defrosted, if necessary¾ tsp black or white peppercorns ¾ tsp Sichuan peppercorns ¼ tsp fine salt 50g potato starch, or cornflour 1 generous pinch MSG (optional)1 egg, beatenNeutral oil, to deep fry1 red chilli, stalk, pith and seeds discarded, flesh finely sliced2 spring onions, trimmed, white and green parts finely sliced1 garlic clove, peeled and slicedIf you’re not a fan of the cephalopod, this recipe can be easily adapted to suit anything from small pieces of chicken or fish to whole prawns or mushrooms (king oysters seem to be the most popular, if you can get hold of them; as with anything with a high water content, however, you’ll need to blanch and drain them first).I prefer to use smallish rather than baby squid for this, but it will work with all sizes. Ask your fishmonger to clean them for you, if they’re not already done (those sold frozen generally are), or look at a guide online to help if you’re unsure of how to do this
Trillium, Birmingham B4: ‘There’s a general feeling of people – gasp! – actually enjoying life’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants
Trillium, the latest Birmingham restaurant by Glyn Purnell, is absolutely not one of those po-faced, sedate, mumbly kind of places where some Ludovico Einaudi is piped plinky-plonkily throughout the dining room while guests stiffly eat six teensy courses. In fact, it’s quite the opposite, even if Purnell, via the likes of Purnell’s and Plates, is pretty much synonymous throughout the Midlands with fancy, special-occasion, Michelin star-winning refinement. Yet on a recent Saturday night, in this brand new, glass-fronted, multicoloured mock birdcage, the talk is loud, the music is roaring and the plates of battered potato scallop with soured cream are appearing thick and fast.Trillium is a genuine attempt by a Michelin-starred restaurateur to translate some of their best bits into a semi-rowdier yet still upmarket stage. It’s been attempted many times by other chefs (see Corenucopia and Bar Valette for details), but, miraculously, Purnell seems to have pulled it off
Has dinner been served with a side of romance? | Brief letters
I can’t be the only person wondering if Dining across the divide (1 March) is possibly resulting in more romantic liaisons than Blind date? Some of them are heartwarming.Ed ClarkeManchester Why all the excitement about a cricket ground within the boundaries of a World Heritage Site (Letters, 27 February)? Derwent Valley Mills has five (viz Cromford Meadows, Ambergate, Belper Meadows, Duffield Meadows and Darley Abbey).Paul EnglishBelper, Derbyshire My anorak has a “funnel” neck (Hiding in plain sight: everyone from Meghan to the Beckhams wants a funnel neck, 27 February). Fortunately, it doesn’t allow rain to cascade through it.Theresa GrahamClevedon, Somerset I was surprised and pleased to see Felicity Cloake’s reference to Farmhouse Fare (How to make the perfect bara brith – recipe, 1 March)
Helen Goh’s recipe for lemon curd layer cake | The sweet spot
This is both simple and celebratory, which in my book makes it just right for Mother’s Day next weekend. It has a fine, tender crumb, which pairs beautifully with the soft, creamy tang of lemon mascarpone, and I use lemon curd in the batter (shop-bought for ease) to bring a particular smoothness and depth of lemon flavour. Finished with a little extra curd and a scattering of edible flowers, it is pretty and unfussy and will hopefully make your own mother’s day.Prep 5 min Cook 1 hr Serves 8-10330g plain flour 2½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp fine sea salt 225g room-temperature unsalted butter225g caster sugar Finely grated zest of 2 lemons 3 large eggs, at room temperature160g lemon curd 250ml whole milk Small edible flowers, to decorateFor the lemon mascarpone 250g lemon curd, plus extra to decorate250g mascarponeHeat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 and line the base and sides of two 20cm round cake tins with baking paper.Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a medium bowl
Women built, and still shape, our culinary culture every day
On 8 March each year, the calendar lights up: dinners celebrating women, panel talks, articles and online events amplifying female voices. The mood on International Women’s Day is joyful, the conversations energised and it feels as if the world is finally paying attention. But then 9 March arrives. Do the celebrations stop? Do we tuck away the banners with the last of the desserts? When the events conclude, are women no longer worth celebrating? The sad truth is that many International Women’s Day events can feel like lip service.Less so in the food world – or at least in our corner of it
The future is rosy for English red wines
When did you last buy a bottle of English red wine? Chances are, you never have. Though increasingly available on the high street – Ocado and Waitrose Cellar both stock a couple – reds grown in Blighty have struggled to shift a reputation for being overpriced: the vast majority still cost £15-25 a bottle, which is well outside what most people might consider “everyday drinking”.The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more
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