McSweeney denies bullying civil servants into appointing Mandelson

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Morgan McSweeney has denied claims he bullied civil servants into appointing Peter Mandelson as UK ambassador to the US, before an evidence hearing with MPs next week.Keir Starmer’s former chief of staff resigned in February over his role in the hiring of Mandelson, but the move failed to end the crisis over the peer’s appointment.On Thursday, McSweeney told a security forum in Kyiv that he did not recognise his “character” as it was portrayed in the media.At a planned appearance before the foreign affairs committee on Tuesday, he is likely to face questions over reports he told Philip Barton, the then permanent undersecretary at the Foreign Office, to “just fucking approve” Mandelson’s appointment.“I find it strange reading about a character with the same name as mine sometimes,” McSweeney told the security conference, as first reported by the Times.

“I don’t recognise that character.”The political strategist, who is widely regarded as a Mandelson protege, reiterated that he resigned because he “took responsibility” for recommending the peer for the role of ambassador.McSweeney had previously said in his exit statement that he took “full responsibility” for giving Starmer advice that resulted in the “wrong” appointment decision, and called for an overhaul of vetting procedures.Starmer and his government have faced a difficult week after the former Foreign Office chief Olly Robbins told MPs on the foreign affairs committee on Tuesday that “constant pressure” was applied from No 10 over the appointment.Robbins was sacked by Starmer last week after the Guardian disclosed he had overturned a recommendation from UK Security Vetting (UKSV) to deny clearance for Mandelson.

At prime minister’s questions on Wednesday, Starmer said no pressure had been put on the Foreign Office to approve the vetting of Mandelson, but Barton is expected to contradict this claim when he also gives evidence to the committee next Tuesday.During a visit to Newcastle upon Tyne on Thursday, Starmer brushed off questions about whether he had considered resigning.“Last week, my political opponents were saying that there’s no way a civil servant wouldn’t have told me about the outcome of a developed vetting security exercise,” he said.“Turns out my political opponents were completely wrong about that.”The prime minister continued: “Then they said that I was dishonest.

It turns out they were completely wrong about that.They are now putting any allegation they can and I will tell you for why – they are opposed politically to what this government is trying to achieve.”
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I’m welcoming ​in spring ​with ​big ​Mediterranean ​flavours

A combination of the warmer weather, dusting off my sunglasses and the impending release of my new book, MEDesque (out on Thursday!), has got me fully focused on sunshine food and Mediterranean flavours. OK, so I’m not quite in rosé-in-the-garden territory just yet, but it’s close. And I am counting down the days. At home, I am leaning heavily on recipes from the queen of all things Med, Claudia Roden, to get my fix. Big hitters such as her bean stew with chorizo and bacon and chicken traybake with olives and boiled lemon deliver on all fronts, and immediately transport me to my favourite region

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Save blue cheese rind for this unbeatable dressing – recipe | Waste not

On a single crumb of cheese rind there are more than 10 billion microbes: that’s more microbial cells than there are people on Earth. Cheese rind is an intensified expression of the cheese, with a powerful flavour and highly concentrated community of good bacteria, yeast and mould. But it is misunderstood and underrated, and often removed and discarded. Though it can be intense, it’s almost always edible, unless it’s grown new mould or contains synthetic plastic, wax or cloth, which should be removed.Like an apple or slice of bread, the skin, crust or rind add texture, flavour and nutrients to the eating experience

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Head’s up: 12 main-course cauliflower recipes from easy to ambitious

Cauliflower looks like the ghost of broccoli, or a human brain that has been drained of blood. As is the case with many overlooked vegetables, boiling is the absolutely second-worst way to cook it (we do not talk about cauliflower rice), while roasting is best, to coax out its sweet and nutty flavours. A whole head is very good and affordable in Australia at the moment and can easily feed a whole family.Marrying florets with warm spices and fragrant baked rice, Meera Sodha’s vegan recipe is finished with a drizzle of fresh lemon juice to keep the flavour fresh. Pick a purple cauliflower and the acid at the end will flush the florets bright pink

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How do I get texture and that umami hit without meat? | Kitchen aide

I’ve recently given up eating pork, but I’m struggling to compensate for its umami. How can I recreate the taste and texture in, say, carbonara or my beloved chorizo dishes?James, by emailFor Joe Woodhouse, author of Weeknight Vegetarian, there’s just something about white beans: “Whether cooked from dried, then dropping chopped onion, garlic, sage and thyme into the broth, or just dumping a jar or tin into a pan with fried garlic and sage, the smell that fills the kitchen is like that of sausagemeat,” he says. “It tastes a bit like it, too – or at least the memory of it, bearing in mind I haven’t eaten the stuff for 30 years.”The quest for that umami savouriness could start with soy sauce, Woodhouse says (“or Slow Sauce’s oat shoyu”), while chef Mike Davies’ first port of call would be Totole’s Chinese mushroom seasoning powder: “It’s super-effective in replacing the richness and fattiness that comes from cooking with any meat, and especially pork,” says the chef-director of the Camberwell Arms, south London. “Honestly, it’s such a cheat-code ingredient

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Georgina Hayden’s quick and easy recipe for smoky prawn, new potato and spinach stew | Quick and easy

This Spanish-style stew is a superb midweek dinner – it’s effortless but looks specialThis Spanish-inspired stew is a great weeknight dinner, particularly if you are having a few friends over, because it feels a bit special while actually being effortless and easy. If you want to take that effortlessness to the next level, make the potato base in advance, then finish off with the spinach and prawns just before serving (I like to do as little cooking as possible in front of guests, leaving me free to chat and pour drinks). Serve with a peppery, lemon-dressed salad on the side and hunks of crusty bread to mop up the juices.Prep 5 min Cook 35 min Serves 44 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 5 garlic cloves, peeled, 4 finely sliced, 1 left whole½ tsp sweet smoked paprika ¼ tsp mild chilli powder 1 tbsp tomato puree 250g ripe tomatoes, choppedSea salt and black pepper 300ml fish stock 600g new potatoes, halved (or quartered if very large)1 lemon 150g baby spinach 350g peeled king prawns, deveined, if you like6 tbsp mayonnaise ½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely choppedPut a large, deep, ovenproof frying pan on a medium-low heat and drizzle in the olive oil. Add the sliced garlic, fry for a minute, then stir in the paprika, chilli powder and tomato puree

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How to make creme caramel – recipe | Felicity Cloake's Masterclass

I don’t know why this classic French dessert isn’t more popular online, given how pleasant it is to watch a softly set custard jiggling seductively on screen, or to admire the way the light bounces off its glossy, caramel top. Worse still, it’s also increasingly hard to find on menus, too. Well, you know what they say: if you want something done well, do it yourself.Prep 15 min Cook 50 minCool 4 hr+ Makes 6For the custardSoft butter, or neutral oil (eg, sunflower, vegetable or groundnut), for greasing500ml whole milk (see step 2)1 vanilla pod, or 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 whole eggs 100g caster sugar 4 egg yolksFor the caramel60g caster sugar 40g soft dark brown sugar (see step 3)1 pinch saltLightly grease six dariole moulds, small pudding bowls or smooth-sided ramekins.Arrange these on a baking tray or shallow tin, preferably one just large enough to hold them all without too much room around the edge, and put it within easy reach of the hob