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What a ​four-​year-​old ​taught ​us ​about the ​magic of ​baking​ a chocolate ​cake

3 days ago
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Valentine’s is on the horizon, which means we are about to officially enter chocolate cake season – that soft-focus part of winter when confectionery and romance blur together.For our four-year-old goddaughter, it is always that time of year.Just hearing the two words together makes her roll her eyes and roll out her little tongue in anticipation of pleasure, like a cartoon kid.When we told her we would come and bake a chocolate cake with her, there were squeals of joy.Settling on a recipe was the first challenge – Ravneet Gill’s fudgy one, Felicity Cloake’s perfect one and Benjamina Ebuehi’s traybaked one were all contenders.

We eventually landed on Samin Nosrat’s much-loved, tried-and-tested midnight chocolate cake.It was to be a learning experience for us as much as for her – we never knew that you can make chocolate cake only while wearing a crown.She had to explain this to us at length.The reasoning had something to do with warding off ghosts and crocodiles – or perhaps the crocodiles were warding off the ghosts, and the crowns were for something else.Bluey was involved as well.

After donning our crowns and aprons, and setting off to the kitchen, it became very clear who was actually in charge of the process.Heavy is the head that wears the crown, and the girl, who speaks mostly in the imperative, began shooting out instructions with the speed and confidence of a football coach.At one point, we had to cut baking paper to size, then we had to draw dragons on the baking paper, which led to a very serious discussion about which of the dragons was good and which evil, and how many there should be of each, in case we needed to draw more.(The verdict: in life, as in cake, balance matters.)When baking with a child, precision gives way to play, efficiency to imagination.

Throwaway moments – lifting a heavy bowl, cracking an egg, sifting cocoa, licking a spoon, placing a cake in the oven – become moments of reverence and revelation.Burying our noses together in the cake fresh out of the oven to breathe in that smell, the anxious anticipation for it to cool so we could decorate it.There is no overstating the importance of sprinkles to the process – here, more is more is more is more, and the merits of each type can be endlessly discussed and compared.Over the next few weeks, we will be baking lots of chocolate cakes, as well as babkas, heart-shaped cookies and many other sweet romantic treats, and while we have certainly – maybe sadly – outgrown sprinkles, this kitchen experience has been a timely reminder that baking is nothing short of magic.All of this is to explain that if you see us in one of our places carrying a tray of baked goods, we may be wearing paper crowns.

Feel free to talk to us about dragons.An island paradise | Around about this time last year, we were in Sri Lanka, and a chunk of our heart is still there.We were thinking about it when ensconced in the beautiful new Hoppers in Shoreditch, where everything – the light filtering through the slatted shutters, the beautiful painted ceiling, the tunes from the speakers, the woven rattan bar and chairs – reminded us of the enchanted isle we love so much.Everything on our table was a perfect balancing act: the potent heat of spice tempered by the richness of slow-cooked meat, seared seafood and fish, flashes of tamarind and guava, chilli-dipped lime … The crab omelette is something we will order every time we come back here, which will be often.An Italian culinary getaway | Our fantasy holiday is something not far off this: an olive grove in Abruzzo, in-depth culinary tours in one of the world’s most beautiful and delicious regions, and two legendary chefs to cook for, and with, us.

Rosie Sykes and Barny Haughton are giants of the food world and will take a lead on this Italian getaway of dreams,The return of Nigella | We are giddy with joy at the news that Nigella is joining The Great British Bake Off team,She has been off our screen for a criminally long time and Bake Off has been off our radar for years, but suddenly it’s got interesting again,What will the queen of the double entendre do when she is facing a soggy bottom? Finally, something to look forward to,If you want to read the complete version of this newsletter please subscribe to receive Feast in your inbox every Thursday.

societySee all
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People with dementia are still people, with joys and interests of their own | Letters

Well said, Jo Glanville (Reading was the key to breaking through the fog of my parents’ dementia, 1 February). Our mother lived with vascular dementia for many years, but she wasn’t “dead” or “as good as dead”. Far too many people believe this, even people whose loved ones have had dementia, and it’s a dangerous belief that undermines the rights of people who are already extremely vulnerable.Mum was alive and herself right to the end, even when she had become bedbound and crippled, even when somebody who could once have chatted for England barely spoke any more. But in those last few years, when she could no longer read for herself, Dad or I (or my brothers when they visited) read to her every day, and even when she didn’t say much, I could tell by the expression on her face whether she was enjoying it or not

2 days ago
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NHS hiring bans in cancer units shortsighted and dangerous, doctors warn

Hospitals have banned units that diagnose and treat cancer from hiring doctors as part of an NHS cost-cutting drive, despite the growing demand for care.Exactly half of the UK’s 60 specialist cancer treatment centres had a freeze on recruiting clinical oncologists imposed on them during 2025, more than double the 13 (23%) seen the year before.Similarly, more than a third (36%) of the 160 radiology departments – which perform and analyse scans – were subjected to a ban last year on hiring clinical radiologists, up from 19% in 2024, according to information supplied by 138 of the UK’s 160 such units.The Royal College of Radiologists, which collected the figures, warned that the dramatic rise in staffing freezes could lead to “dangerous” delays in cancers being spotted and treated.Dr Stephen Harden, the RCR’s president, criticised the bans as “shortsighted”, bad for patients, damaging to NHS personnel’s morale and likely to cost more money in the long term

2 days ago
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Most statin side-effects not caused by the drugs, study finds

Almost all side-effects listed for statins are not caused by the drugs, according to the world’s most comprehensive review of evidence.Other than the well-known risks around muscle pain and diabetes, only four of 66 other statin side-effects listed on labels – liver test changes, minor liver abnormalities, urine changes and tissue swelling – are supported by evidence. And the risks are very small, according to the systematic review and meta-analysis published in the Lancet.Statins have been used by hundreds of millions of people worldwide over the last three decades and are proven to reduce heart attacks, strokes and cardiovascular deaths. At the same time, millions have been put off the drugs amid long-running safety concerns, with statin labels listing dozens of possible side-effects

3 days ago
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Alton Towers to test excluding people with autism and ADHD from disability fast lane

People with attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD), anxiety and autism will be prevented from using fast-lane disability queueing passes at Alton Towers during a trial over the February half-term holidays.Merlin Entertainments, which runs the theme park in Staffordshire, provides a “ride access pass” to visitors who have difficulty queueing due to a disability or medical condition.The pass allows guests to book a slot on a virtual queueing system for themselves and up to three companions. They are then allowed to wait for their turn away from often crowded queues.But the company said disabled visitors with “additional accessibility needs” have said the digital pass “simply isn’t working for them, particularly as demand has grown and queue times for these guests have increased”

3 days ago
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Violence is part and parcel of how prisons function | Letter

Alex South’s article (Death on the inside: as a prison officer, I saw how the system perpetuates violence, 13 January) limits the scope of prison violence to individual acts by focusing on prisoner-on-prisoner homicides. But violence is part and parcel of how prisons function.Hundreds of people die in prison each year, the majority by suicide, medical neglect or drugs. Even if we focus on homicides, they reveal how violence operates at an institutional level. Last year, the inquest of Sundeep Ghuman exposed how it was multiple failures by the prison, not just the actions of his cellmate, that led to his unlawful killing

3 days ago
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Blanket rule on trans women in men’s prisons would deny their identity, says Scottish government

A blanket rule to house transgender women in men’s prisons, even when they pose no risk to others, would be a “fundamental denial” of their identity, the Scottish government has argued.Placing a trans inmate in a prison that does not align with their lived gender runs counter to the aims of rehabilitation, Gerry Moynihan KC said on Thursday as he set out Scottish ministers’ position that a blanket rule on where prisoners are housed could contravene obligations under the European convention on human rights.In its latest court battle with the SNP government, For Women Scotland is challenging guidance that says trans prisoners should be housed according to individual risk assessment, which the group argues is contrary to the supreme court’s ruling on women-only spaces.For Women Scotland brought the original challenge that resulted in last April’s landmark ruling that the definition of a woman in equalities law refers to biological sex.Arguing that the supreme court decision was “not a universal proposition” but only for the purposes of the Equality Act, Moynihan said: “Where a transgender prisoner does not pose an article 8 problem, does not threaten the rights of others – are we to have an absolute rule that says that they must be accommodated in a prison of their sex?“Why? The sole reason is that they are to be classified as a man

3 days ago
politicsSee all
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Lib Dems suspend Chris Rennard amid new inquiry into sexual harassment claims

1 day ago
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FCA urged to investigate Peter Mandelson over potential insider trading

1 day ago
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‘Am I at peak popularity? I hope not’: on the road with Zack Polanski, from protest to podcast to Heaven nightclub

1 day ago
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‘I’m British, English and British Asian’, says Rishi Sunak in riposte to racially charged debate over identity

1 day ago
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Minister commissioned investigation of journalists looking into Labour thinktank

1 day ago
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Reform faces police investigation over ‘concerned neighbour’ byelection letters

2 days ago