The cardamom conundrum: what’s the difference between green and black pods? | Kitchen aide
What’s the difference between green and black cardamom, and when should I use pods or ground? “Cardamom is my favourite spice,” says Cynthia Shanmugalingam, chef/proprietor of Rambutan in London.“It smells like childhood puddings and sweets.” That’s not to say the papery pods filled with black seeds aren’t versatile, mind.Yes, cardamom can bring a “piney, eucalyptus-like fragrance and warmth” to desserts, Shanmugalingam adds, but it also “adds depth” to savoury dishes, meaning you can take it in multiple directions.With its origins in southern India and a relative of ginger, cardamom pods commonly come in green and black (also known as brown) form, as well as red (used mainly in Chinese and Asian cuisines) and white, which are bleached green pods.
While Roopa Gulati, author of Indian Kitchens: Treasured Family Recipes from Across the Land, often uses both black/brown and green in the same dish, she says you “have to be aware that they are totally different in flavour.You’re not going to make a lovely, aromatic rice pudding and stick some brown cardamom in it, because that will override all the other flavours.”That’s because black cardamom is earthy, smoky and more robust than its green relative, which is why Gulati puts it to work in the likes of meaty curries, lamb pilaf and rice dishes, as well as in garam masala: “It has a good, solid base note.” The Kashmiri stock yakhni is a good example: “That has loads of spices in it, but if you also chuck in a couple of brown cardamom pods, it just gives it that extra layer.” That’s not to say the bolder brown cardamom should stay in its lane, though: “It can also go with sweet things such as dates,” Gulati adds.
As for red cardamom, which is similar in taste to brown, “in India, we don’t cook with it, but it’s interchangeable with brown, though our homegrown brown cardamom is a bit more pungent!”Green cardamom, meanwhile, is “quite fresh and citrussy”, so Gulati uses that in cake batters and desserts, such as rice pudding: “I’ll sometimes put green cardamom pods in a pan of milk and simmer to infuse.” And while Shanmugalingam is a fan of the lighter, sweeter spice in watalappan (a Sri Lankan coconut caramel pudding), she’ll also put it to work in pilafs and biryanis, dals and marinades for chicken.Finally, with white cardamom, which is the more mellow of the bunch, again think creamy desserts and cakes.As for using whole pods versus grinding the seeds inside, Shanmugalingam leans towards the former, because, she says, “they retain flavour better and infuse sweet rice pudding and curries really well”.If you’re after something punchier, meanwhile, Gulati’s top tip is to drop the pods into hot oil: “Their volatile oils are released and you get a stronger flavour; always pierce the pod first, though, otherwise it might explode.
”Ground cardamom, meanwhile, works best in cakes and marinades, Shanmugalingam says, although the process of grinding those seeds is, Gulati admits, “a real pain in the neck”,To grease the wheels, she suggests adding a pinch of caster sugar to proceedings: “It acts as an abrasive, so makes it much easier and quicker to pound with a pestle,” Thankfully, a little goes a long way, and always remember that freshness is key: “Once you’ve ground the seeds, use them quite quickly,” Gulati says, “otherwise they’ll turn musty,”Got a culinary dilemma? Email feast@theguardian,com
Rachel Roddy’s recipe for courgette, onion and chickpea flour bake, or scarpaccia | A kitchen in Rome
Like millions of people all over the world, ideas are often planted in my head by a couple called Alessandro Vitale and Iasmina P, whose fast-paced videos document recipes they have developed based on the vegetables they grow, with the objective of using absolutely everything. Edited for social media, their videos are designed not just to attract, but to trap attention in a TikTok spell, then communicate a rush of information in a matter of seconds. However, within the well-calculated rush of decisive movements and fishbowl close-ups, Alessandro (otherwise known as Spicy Moustache) is a hugely likable, calm and good teacher.For months now, his enthusiastic and entertaining approach to a vegetable or process has sent me into the kitchen to grate something and rub it with salt, to turn into a fritter or cake. “Such a vivid thing for us today,” is what Jane Grigson said about the ideas of Giacomo Castelvetro, the 16th-century proponent of vegetables and author of The Fruit, Herbs and Vegetables of Italy (1614), and I think the same can be said about Alessandro
How to turn old bread into a classic Portuguese soup – recipe
Today’s punchy and bright-green garlic and coriander soup is an intriguing Portuguese way to use up stale bread. The recipe is adapted from the traditional açorda of Alentejo, where it’s thought of as the region’s signature dish. Açorda is said to have been born from necessity, a waste-saving and resourceful soup that’s transformed by olive oil, plentiful herbs and rich egg. I find this take on it particularly interesting because, instead of simmering the coriander, garlic and egg in hot broth, they are instead put in a bowl and the broth is poured over them. This enhances the powerful flavours of the garlic and coriander, and the whole lot is then ladled over stale bread
Chilli oil udon and salmon salad: Justin Tsang’s speedy noodle recipes for one
At this time of year, I find myself swaying towards lighter meals and bolder flavours, and especially recipes that include a ton of herbs, citrus and spice. Noodles are my go-to theme in the warmer months, and for good reason: they’re super-versatile, can be eaten hot or cold, and they soak up flavours like a sponge. These recipes for one are also speedy, low-fuss and involve minimal cooking – perfect for maximising your time outdoors.These are inspired by my travels across China and its love for all things spicy noodles. A perfectly balanced sauce made with soy, vinegar and herbs means these salty, sweet, sour and spicy noodles are incredibly addictive
The cardamom conundrum: what’s the difference between green and black pods? | Kitchen aide
What’s the difference between green and black cardamom, and when should I use pods or ground? “Cardamom is my favourite spice,” says Cynthia Shanmugalingam, chef/proprietor of Rambutan in London. “It smells like childhood puddings and sweets.” That’s not to say the papery pods filled with black seeds aren’t versatile, mind. Yes, cardamom can bring a “piney, eucalyptus-like fragrance and warmth” to desserts, Shanmugalingam adds, but it also “adds depth” to savoury dishes, meaning you can take it in multiple directions.With its origins in southern India and a relative of ginger, cardamom pods commonly come in green and black (also known as brown) form, as well as red (used mainly in Chinese and Asian cuisines) and white, which are bleached green pods
Rukmini Iyer’s quick and easy recipe for soy and peanut trout with smashed cucumber, radishes and beans | Quick and easy
This is a lovely, light dinner, featuring honey- and soy-dressed peanut trout alongside a crunchy smashed cucumber and radish salad. With cannellini beans also tossed through the salad, you’ll be hard pressed to notice that this is also a low-carb meal.Salting the cucumber helps to get rid of the excess water, and improves the texture no end.Prep 15 min Cook 20 min Serves 22 trout fillets 30g peanuts, roughly chopped30ml soy sauce25g tsp honey 1 large cucumber, cut into 1⅓cm-thick rounds1 tsp sea salt flakes15ml sesame oil Juice of 1 lime (30ml)½ tsp chilli flakes Salt 150g radishes, trimmed and quartered400g tin cannellini beans, drainedHeat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. Put the trout fillets in a small, lined baking dish, ideally one small enough to hold them fairly snugly
Elly Curshen’s quick weeknight recipes for using up leftover greens, bread and vegetables
These are all about taking the spoils of the weekend, whether that’s leftovers from Sunday lunch, the bits you couldn’t finish from a takeaway or the last scraps from a party spread, and stretching them out to make joyous weekday lunches. I’m concentrating on ideas, rather than recipes as such, because using up the odds and ends from the fridge needs to be part of the flow of your cooking to avoid waste. Everything is quick, easy, involves minimal prep and, crucially, is endlessly open to adaptation. Prep 5 minCook 15 min Serves 11 medium egg Leftover naan or roti, or frozen paratha cooked from frozen in a dry frying pan for a couple of minutes1 spring onion and/or fresh herbs – coriander is perfect Chutney, such as mango, raita, mint, lime pickle Chilli crisp – I like LaoganmaBring a small pan of water to a boil, then add the egg and set a timer for six and a half minutes. (To save time, boil and peel a few eggs, then keep them in a sealed container in the fridge, where they’ll be fine for three days
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