Chop and change: pork is ‘new beef’ for money-saving Britons, report finds

A picture


Pork is the “new beef”, with Britons increasingly making the money-saving meat swap for dishes such as spaghetti bolognese or T-bone steak, according to a new report,With the latest official figures showing beef price inflation running at 27%, customers are looking to buy pork cuts that you would typically associate with beef,That list runs to free-range fillets and short ribs as well as T-bone and rib-eye steaks, Waitrose says in its annual food and drink report,Recipe searches for “lasagne with pork mince” have doubled on its website, while searches for “pulled pork nachos” are up 45%,Its sales of pork mince are up 16% on last year, as home cooks adapt favourite recipes.

Pork is making a “massive comeback but in a premium way”, according to Matthew Penfold, a senior buyer for Waitrose,Shoppers can buy pork for a fraction of the cost, with a fillet costing about £20 a kg, while beef is £80 a kg or more,The annual exercise by the upmarket retailer highlights the food trends that will shape what is being sold on supermarket shelves,Ones to watch include new portmanteau flavours “spour” (spicy and sour) and “fricy” (fruity and spicy),It also flags the rise of the “fibremaxxing” movement, which involves going to town with linseeds and dried fruit.

But while much of this excitement is driven by TikTok, the increased demand for pork is down to cold, hard economics as shoppers make tight household budgets stretch further,This cost consciousness is also behind the renaissance of the baked potato – if it ever went away,Sales of large potatoes are up by more than third in Waitrose stores but bog-standard toppings such as beans and cheese will no longer do,The alternatives dreamed up by food influencers include kimchi, and chicken shawarma with tahini,The impact of high food prices on shopping habits is writ large in separate figures prepared by the Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board (AHDB).

With the average price for a kilogram of beef mince in the shops up by 37% year on year in the 12 weeks to 2 November, the quantity sold tumbled nearly 11%.Consumers were opting to buy smaller 250g packs (saving £1.77 on average compared with a 500g pack) and frozen mince instead, it said.The financial squeeze meant consumers were seeking out cheaper proteins such as chicken, pork sausages and fish, AHDB said.Its data showed pork mince sales volumes surging 36.

6% year on year, and chicken mince by 65.6%.“Some consumers are looking for cheaper substitutes for cooking their family favourites such as spaghetti bolognese or chilli con carne,” it said.Katharina Erfort, the principal at the supply chain experts Inverto, said higher feed and labour costs were among the factors driving beef prices higher.“That has led to a reduction in the raising of beef cattle in the UK, impacting the overall supply.

Pork has traditionally been cheaper to produce because pigs need far less feed than cattle – around four times less for every kilo of meat,” she said, adding that they also required less space and reached full size in about six months.
A picture

How to make coquilles St-Jacques – recipe | Felicity Cloake's Masterclass

’Tis the season for food that makes everyone feel a little bit loved and special; for showstoppers – but preferably the kind that don’t stop the show for too long, given how much else is likely to be going on. This French classic, which can be made a day ahead, if necessary, and/or bulked out with other seafood, is a luxurious light starter or fancy canapé.Prep 20 min Cook 15 min Makes 66 large sustainably-sourced scallops (diver-caught, ideally), cleaned and on the shell, or frozen and defrosted scallops (or see method)2 tbsp butter 2 banana shallots, or 4 round ones150ml white wine (optional; see method)100ml double creamFor the topping1 small garlic clove 25g parsley 2 tbsp butter 70g dried breadcrumbsIf you’d like to keep costs down, go for frozen scallops, or for smaller queen scallops (farmed or hand-dived ones tend to be the most sustainable), or mix scallops with other seafood such as small shelled clams and prawns, etc, and cook and serve them in gratin dishes. Store live scallops in the fridge round-side down. For a more substantial dish, add another chopped scallop, or other seafood, per person

A picture

KFC’s bánh mì has its name but not its nature. Who is this sandwich for?

I bite into my KFC bánh mì, and there is silence. No crunch, no crackle. My teeth sink into a bread roll that is neither crusty nor flaky. There is a slaw of cabbage, carrot and cucumber, a whisper of coriander, a fillet of fried chicken, a splodge of mayonnaise and a slightly spicy, barbecue-adjacent “supercharged” sauce. There is no pate, no pickled daikon, no lineup of industrious sandwich-making Vietnamese aunties asking if I want chilli

A picture

Skye Gyngell obituary

The pioneering chef Skye Gyngell, who has died of Merkel cell carcinoma, a rare skin cancer, aged 62, was the first Australian woman to win a Michelin star, an early supporter of the slow food movement, and a champion of charities such as StreetSmart and the Felix Project.Gyngell was a quiet radical. She came to public attention when she opened the Petersham Nurseries Café in south-west London in 2004. Until that point, she had been honing her own distinctive cooking personality that emphasised the quality of ingredients and the simplicity of their treatment and presentation. Her dishes were light, graceful and deceptively simple, but were founded on a serious understanding of how flavours and textures worked together, sometimes in surprising ways

A picture

‘Premium but not ostentatious’: the best extra virgin olive oils to gift instead of wine

This festive season, olive oil is the new bottle of wine. If booze or a scented candle used to be a fail-safe gift option for a party, retailers and food experts are reporting a surge of interest in the kitchen cupboard staple.The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more

A picture

Benjamina Ebuehi’s coffee caramel and rum choux tower Christmas showstopper – recipe

Christmas is the perfect time for something a bit more extravagant and theatrical. And a very good way to achieve this is to bring a tower of puffy choux buns to the table and pour over a jugful of boozy chocolate sauce and coffee caramel while everyone looks on in awe. To help avoid any stress on the day, most of the elements can be made ahead: the chocolate sauce and caramel can be gently reheated before pouring, while the choux shells can be baked the day before and crisped up in the oven for 10 minutes before filling.Prep 10 min Cook 1 hr 15 min Serves 10-12120ml milk 120g butter ½ tbsp sugar A pinch of salt 160g strong white flour 4-5 large eggs, beatenDemerara sugar, for sprinkling400ml double cream ½ tsp vanilla bean paste ½ tbsp icing sugarFor the coffee caramel140ml double cream 2 tsp instant coffee or espresso powder110g sugar 50g unsalted butter A big pinch of flaky sea saltFor the chocolate sauce 150g dark chocolate 1½ tbsp brown sugar 2-3 tbsp rum A pinch of saltHeat the oven to 210C (190C fan)/410F/gas 6½ and line two large baking trays with baking paper. To make the choux, put the milk, 120ml water, butter, sugar and salt in a saucepan and bring to a rolling boil

A picture

Facing burnout, she chased her dream of making pie - and built an empire: ‘Pie brings us together’

Thanksgiving may be a holiday steeped in myth and controversy – but there’s still something Americans largely agree on: there’s nothing wrong with the holiday’s traditional dessert. So says Beth Howard, expert pie maker, cookbook author, memoirist, and now documentary film-maker.The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more