Starmer aide’s exit over lewd Abbott jokes deepens crisis as Trump arrives

A picture


The crisis engulfing Keir Starmer has deepened on the eve of Donald Trump’s visit to the UK after the resignation of a third senior ally in two weeks raised further questions about the stability of his government.Paul Ovenden quit as the prime minister’s director of political strategy after the publication of old messages in which Ovenden relayed lewd jokes made at a party about the Labour MP Diane Abbott.His resignation comes after a bruising two weeks in which Starmer has overseen the departures of both his deputy prime minister, Angela Rayner, and his US ambassador, Peter Mandelson.Starmer’s internal critics also say he has failed to condemn the far-right protest in London over the weekend, as well as the people who organised it, strongly enough.The prime minister hit back saying there could be “no surrender” to racism and violence, which several cabinet members including Wes Streeting have echoed.

But tensions over the march have raised fears among many Labour MPs about whether the government is “meeting the moment”, which some have termed a “progressive emergency”.Starmer spent Monday night in the Commons, voting on the workers’ rights bill, in a move which some in his party interpreted as a move to reassure his fractious MPs.The turmoil surrounding his leadership has prompted Labour MPs to begin talking openly about the prospect of replacing him before the next election, and possibly even in the next few months.He was hoping to use the US president’s state visit, which begins on Tuesday, as a platform to refocus attention on his economic and foreign policy agenda.Instead Trump will arrive to meet a beleaguered prime minister who is under criticism from both the right and the left of the party.

Allies of alternative leaders are talking up their candidates’ prospects of rescuing the government’s standing.One MP who has so far been loyal to Starmer said: “Downing Street needs to start improving things very quickly, otherwise they are going to lose control of this whole situation.”A Labour official said that the departure of Ovenden – one of the prime minister’s longest-serving and closest allies – would weaken Starmer further.“The more Keir loses people around him, the more people start to realise the problem is not them, but him,” the person said.Starmer accepted Ovenden’s resignation after he was revealed to have exchanged messages with a friend eight years ago in which he jokingly recounted a conversation that had happened at a party the previous evening.

In those messages, which are revealed in a forthcoming book about Starmer called The Fraud, Ovenden talked about how those at the party had played a game of “shag, marry, kill” involving Abbott, before describing how they might have sex with her.Abbott called the messages “very unpleasant”, likening them to messages revealed by the Martin Forde inquiry into bullying, racism and sexism in the Labour party.A Downing Street spokesperson said: “These messages are appalling and unacceptable.As the first black woman to be elected to parliament, Diane Abbott is a trailblazer who has faced horrendous abuse throughout her political career.“These kinds of comments have no place in our politics.

”Starmer has long had a difficult relationship with Abbott, with his allies having tried unsuccessfully to persuade her to step down before the last election.Ovenden said in a statement: “I am accused of, eight years ago as a junior press officer, sharing with a female colleague the details of a silly conversation that I was party to with other female staff members.”He added: “As an adviser, my duty is to protect the reputation of the prime minister and his government.“Most people could find a private conversation they’ve had in the last decade, whether in the pub or on WhatsApp, that would be distasteful or embarrassing if it were published.Sign up to First EditionOur morning email breaks down the key stories of the day, telling you what’s happening and why it mattersafter newsletter promotion“While it is chilling that a private conversation from nearly a decade ago can do this sort of damage, I am also truly, deeply sorry for it and the hurt it will cause.

”Ovenden had previously told friends he was planning to leave after the Labour conference later this month.But his immediate departure has caused alarm among some of Starmer’s allies, who say the PM looks increasingly exposed, with his chief of staff, Morgan McSweeney, one of his few remaining long-term advisers.One Labour official said: “Keir threw away his closest confidant over a trivial comment made eight years ago.”Another said: “Paul was the best brain in government, and without his instincts and intellect battling for the priorities of the voter, this government risks turning inwards.”But even as Starmer tries to turn the agenda to his meetings with Trump, he is also facing further questions over what he knew about Mandelson’s relationship with the child sex offender Jeffrey Epstein before appointing him in Washington.

Ministers will be pressed on that question on Tuesday after the Conservatives secured an emergency Commons debate on the Mandelson controversy.The Tories are demanding to know when the prime minister knew about the messages in which Mandelson gave Epstein his effusive backing, even while the financier was facing charges of child sex trafficking.Starmer told Channel 4 News on Monday: “I wouldn’t have appointed him had I known the nature and extent of the relationship – the fact that he was questioning and challenging [Epstein’s] conviction.”But many MPs are irritated not just by the missteps, which have led to the departure of several key members of staff, but also by the prime minister’s perceived failure to denounce the resurgent hard right.Starmer attempted to rectify that later on Monday, telling Channel 4: “I’m absolutely determined to lead in this fight of our times between renewal, the patriotic cause of the Labour party, and the division and toxic chaos and decline that would come under Reform.

”But with events moving quickly, some believe the prime minister may face a challenge before next May’s elections – even before one of his chief rivals, the Greater Manchester mayor, Andy Burnham, has time to find a Commons seat.One Labour source said: “At this rate Wes [Streeting, the health secretary] is going to have to get organised earlier.Things are moving too fast for Andy.”
A picture

Vegan burgers are losing the US culture war over meat: ‘It’s not our moment’

Plant-based burgers were supposed to help wean Americans off their environmentally ruinous appetite for meat. But sales have plummeted amid a surging pro-meat trend embraced by the Trump administration, raising a key question – will vegetarianism ever take hold in the US?This year has been a punishing one for the plant-based meat sector, led by companies such as Beyond Meat and Impossible Foods, with sales of refrigerated products slumping 17%. This follows a difficult 2024, during which sales fell 7%, furthering a multi-year spiral – last year Americans purchased 75m fewer units of plant-based meat than they did in 2022.Despite hopes that burgers, sausages and chicken made from soy, peas and beans would curb Americans’ love of eating butchered animals – thereby reducing the rampant deforestation, water pollution and planet-heating emissions involved in raising livestock – these alternatives languish at just 1% of the total meat market in the US.Instead, a resurgent focus on meat has swept the US, pushed by industry lobbyists and online wellness influencers who advocate greater protein consumption via the carnivore diet and deride plant alternatives as overly processed

A picture

Helen Goh’s recipe for plum and star anise frangipane tart | The sweet spot

Late-season plums are wonderful to bake with; juicy and slightly astringent as you get closer to the skin, they soften into a rich, almost winey sweetness. And, when they’re nestled into soft almond cream and scented with star anise, they make a delicious tart for any time of day. Serve warm with pouring cream as pudding or cold with a cup of tea.Prep 15 minChill 1 hr 30 min Cook 1 hr 45 min Serves 8-10For the pastry 300g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 90g icing sugar ¼ tsp salt 200g cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes, plus an extra 10g, melted, for greasingFinely grated zest of 1 lemon 1 large egg yolk 20ml ice-cold waterFor the plums 4-5 medium plums (about 100g each), halved, stoned and sliced into 1cm-wide wedges1 tbsp caster sugar 3 whole star anise (about 3g), finely ground in a mortar to get 1½ tspFor the filling125g unsalted butter, at room temperature125g caster sugar Finely grated zest of 1 orange¼ tsp fine sea salt ½ tsp almond extract, or vanilla extract 2 eggs, at room temperature40g plain flour 125g ground almonds Icing sugar, to finishTo make the pastry, put the flour, icing sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse a few times to combine and aerate. Add the butter and lemon zest, then process to the consistency of fresh breadcrumbs

A picture

Why Portuguese red blends fly off the shelves | Hannah Crosbie on drinks

It has come to my attention that I haven’t written a column dedicated to red wine in almost two months. So sue me – it’s been hot. Mercifully, though, temperatures look to be dropping soon, so we can once again cup the bowl of a wine glass without worrying about it getting a little warmer as its aromas unfasten.The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link

A picture

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for fish baked with tomatoes, olives and capers | A kitchen in Rome

Al cartoccio is the Italian form of en papillote, meaning “contained” or “in paper”, which is an effective cooking method that traps the moisture (and flavour) released from the ingredients and creates a steamy poaching chamber – it’s a bit like a Turkish bath for food! Once out of the oven, but still sealed, the scented steam trapped in the paper returns to liquid and creates a brothy sauce. Fish with firm white or pink flesh that breaks into fat flakes is particularly well suited to cooking al cartoccio, both whole fish (cleaned and on the bone) and individual filets (estimate 110g-140g per person).When choosing fish, keep in mind our collective default to cod and haddock, both members of the so-called “big five” that make up a staggering 80% of UK consumption. Instead, look out for other species, such as hake, huss or North Sea plaice, ASC-certified Scottish salmon, sea trout or farmed rainbow trout. For more detailed and updated advice, the Marine Conservation Society produces an invaluable, area-by-area good fish guide that uses a five-tiered system to rank both “best choice” and “fish to avoid” based on the species, location and fishing method

A picture

How to turn a single egg and rescued berries into a classic British dessert

Just a single egg white can be transformed into enough elegant meringue shards to crown more than four servings of pudding, as I discovered when, earlier this year, I was invited by Cole & Mason to come up with a recipe to mark London History Day and decided to do so by celebrating the opening of the Shard in 2012. Meringue shards make a lovely finishing touch to all kinds of desserts, from a rich trifle to an avant-garde pavlova or that timeless classic, the Eton mess. As for the leftover yolk, I have several recipes, including spaghetti carbonara (also featuring salt-cured egg yolks that make a wonderful alternative to parmesan) and brown banana curd.Architect Renzo Piano is said to have sketched his original idea for the Shard on the back of a restaurant napkin. Similarly, whenever I design a more conceptual dish such as this one, I love to start by drawing it in my sketchbook, to develop an idea of what the dish will look like, and while I was drawing the angular lines of the Shard, it reminded me of a minimalist dessert I’d eaten at the seminal AT restaurant in Paris that featured grey meringue shards that seemed to me to perfectly emulate the dramatic geometry of that iconic London building

A picture

Cracker Barrel suspends remodeling plans after backlash over logo change

Cracker Barrel announced on Tuesday that it’s suspending plans to remodel its restaurants just weeks after reversing a logo change that ignited a political firestorm.The 56-year-old restaurant chain, known for southern-style cooking and country-store aesthetic, faced intense backlash last month after unveiling a rebranding effort aimed at modernizing its image. The company rolled out a new minimalist logo and plans for more contemporary interiors, and it updated menu items.The new logo replaced the brand’s image of an old man in overalls leaning against a wooden barrel with a simplified gold background and the words “Cracker Barrel” in minimalist lettering.The change was immediately met with intense outrage online from conservatives and far-right influencers who accused the company of going “woke”