How to turn a single egg and rescued berries into a classic British dessert
Just a single egg white can be transformed into enough elegant meringue shards to crown more than four servings of pudding, as I discovered when, earlier this year, I was invited by Cole & Mason to come up with a recipe to mark London History Day and decided to do so by celebrating the opening of the Shard in 2012.Meringue shards make a lovely finishing touch to all kinds of desserts, from a rich trifle to an avant-garde pavlova or that timeless classic, the Eton mess.As for the leftover yolk, I have several recipes, including spaghetti carbonara (also featuring salt-cured egg yolks that make a wonderful alternative to parmesan) and brown banana curd.Architect Renzo Piano is said to have sketched his original idea for the Shard on the back of a restaurant napkin.Similarly, whenever I design a more conceptual dish such as this one, I love to start by drawing it in my sketchbook, to develop an idea of what the dish will look like, and while I was drawing the angular lines of the Shard, it reminded me of a minimalist dessert I’d eaten at the seminal AT restaurant in Paris that featured grey meringue shards that seemed to me to perfectly emulate the dramatic geometry of that iconic London building.
But this dish isn’t just visually appealing.Black pepper, strawberries and basil are an unexpected yet classical combination: there’s herbaceous, sweet and savoury complexity from the basil, freshness from the naturally sweet strawberries and a pop of heat from the super-sweet black pepper meringue that adds an unexpected warmth that is then subdued by the cream.If you’re lucky enough to spot any reduced-price berries in the supermarket, this is a great way to make use of past-their-best strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and even blueberries.Prep 20 min (plus resting time) Cook 1 hr 30 minServes 4For the meringue shards1 egg white 37g caster sugar 37g icing sugar, sifted ¼ tsp cream of tartar (optional)⅛ tsp freshly ground black pepper A small pinch of saltFor the mess200g ripe strawberries, or other berries1 tbsp caster sugar, or to tasteZest and juice of ¼ lemon A few fresh basil leaves 220ml clotted cream, or double cream whipped until stiffHeat the oven to 110C (90C fan)/gas ¾, and line a large baking tray with a silicone mat or unbleached baking paper.Crack the egg white into a clean, grease-free bowl or jar.
Add the caster sugar, icing sugar, cream of tartar if using, and ground black pepper, then whisk with an electric hand whisk or in a stand mixer on high speed for five to 10 minutes, until the mix forms very firm, glossy peaks,Spoon the meringue on to the lined baking tray, then smooth it out into a thin, even layer,Bake for about an hour and a half, or until the surface is crisp and dry to the touch but hasn’t taken on any colour,Remove and leave to cool completely on the tray, then lift the meringue off the paper and snap it into long, jagged shards,Meanwhile, hull the strawberries and cut them into cubes.
Finely slice the basil leaves,Put both in a bowl, add the sugar, lemon zest and juice, and mix gently but thoroughly,Cover and put in the fridge for at least an hour, though overnight would be best,Just before serving, thin the clotted cream with a little of the strawberry juices from the bottom of the bowl, being careful not to overmix it, or it will turn buttery,Spoon a generous dessertspoonful of the cream into the centre of each of four pudding bowls and spread it out gently with the back of the spoon to create a well.
Fill the well with a generous spoonful of the macerated strawberries, then arrange some meringue shards on top, allowing them to lean and jut out like miniature crystalline towers, concealing some of the fruit beneath,Serve at once, crushing the meringue into the berries and cream as you eat,
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