West African sunshine dishes: Toyo Odetunde’s chicken yassa pot pie and stuffed plantain boats – recipes
If there’s anything that can assuage my winter blues, it’s a soul-soothing chicken pie.I’ve long enjoyed innovating fusions between west African and other cuisines, and today’s marriage of a deeply flavourful Senegalese chicken yassa-inspired filling in buttery, flaky puff pastry is one of my all-time favourites.But, first, my take on hearty Nigerian stewed beans – ewa riro – using tinned beans for added convenience.Typically paired with ripe plantain, I use the rich beans to fill canoas (plantain boats) in a playful, Latin American-inspired twist.Dried prawns and west African red palm oil, which are integral to our cooking (and the latter is not to be confused with those industrial palm oils that are driving mass deforestation), give this dish its signature umami and uniquely earthy and subtly sweet flavour.
Prep 25 min Cook 1 hr 15 min Makes 6For the base2 400g tins plum tomatoes 4 long red sweet peppers, deseeded and cut into chunks 1 scotch bonnet, deseeded5 garlic cloves, peeled½ onion, cut into chunks2½cm piece fresh ginger, peeled3 tbsp tomato pureeFor the stew180ml red palm oil – you can find this in the world food aisle of larger supermarkets and in African stores 2 onions, peeled and sliced 1 tbsp stock powder 1½ tbsp ground smoked prawns – look for them in Asian and African supermarkets6 ripe plantains with large black patches, peeled3 tbsp melted butter, or ghee, or olive/vegetable oil1 pinch salt 1 tsp dried thyme 1 tsp white pepper 2 400g tins black-eyed beans, drained and rinsed700ml water2 125g tins skinless and boneless mackerel in oil or brine, drainedFresh herbs (coriander, thyme, parsley), to garnish (optional)Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6,In a blender, blitz all the ingredients for the stew base until smooth,In a large, deep pan, melt the palm oil on a medium-high heat until it’s hot enough that a piece of onion sizzles immediately,Fry half the sliced onion with the stock powder and a tablespoon of ground prawns, until softened,Stir in the blended stew base, then cook uncovered for 10-15 minutes, until bubbling, slightly reduced and thickened.
Meanwhile, line a baking tray with greaseproof paper and put a rack on top,Coat each peeled plantain with a half-tablespoon of melted butter (or ghee or oil) and transfer to the rack,Sprinkle the plantains with salt and roast for 15-20 minutes, until the tops are golden brown,During this time, stir the thyme and white pepper into the stew mix and turn down the heat to low-medium,In a medium pot with a lid, cook the beans and the remaining sliced onion in 700ml water on a medium-high heat for 10-15 minutes, until very soft.
Drain, discard the onion, then set the beans aside.Flip the plantains and bake them for another 15-20 minutes, until cooked through and golden brown all over.Meanwhile, bring the stew to a simmer; it should be reduced and crusting at the edges, with the oil separating.Add the mackerel in chunks, then stir in the cooked beans, mashing them into the stew (you don’t want a paste).Sprinkle in the remaining half-tablespoon of ground prawns.
Carefully split open each plantain, cutting into them about 1cm deep,Carefully lengthen and widen the pocket as needed, then stuff with the stewed beans a tablespoon at a time,Garnish with herbs, if you like, and serve,Treacly, caramelised onions, tart mustard and citrus, and briny olives harmoniously elevate the nostalgic comfort of chicken in pastry,Prep 15 min Marinate 2hr+Cook 2 hr Serves 4-6For the marinade5 garlic cloves, peeled2½cm piece fresh ginger, peeled¼ medium-large onion ½ scotch bonnet, deseeded1 tsp stock powder ½ tsp white pepper ½ tsp black pepper 1 tsp paprika ½ tsp rock salt2 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp dijon mustardFor the pie2 320g sheets ready-made puff pastry500g boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into chunks5 tbsp vegetable oil 3 large onions, peeled and sliced (about 580g)2 tsp brown sugar1 tsp allspice100ml stock50g pitted green olives1 eggIn a blender or food processor, blitz the garlic, ginger, onion and chilli, adding a little water if needed to make a paste.
Tip this into a bowl, add the chicken and the remaining marinade ingredients, toss to coat, cover and put in the fridge to marinate for at least two hours.Put three tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a deep pan on a medium-high heat.Add the marinated chicken, cover with the lid and leave to cook for 15 minutes, until cooked through.Remove the chicken and set aside.Heat the remaining two tablespoons of vegetable oil in the same pot, stir in the sliced onion, cover and cook on a low-medium heat for 15 minutes, until soft.
Take off the lid, add the brown sugar and allspice, and turn up the heat to medium-high,Cook, stirring regularly, for about 30 minutes, until the mix is deep brown and caramelised; if need be, add splashes of water to stop it burning,Return the chicken to the pan, pour in the stock and olives, simmer on low-medium for five to 10 minutes, then take off the heat,Grease a 22cm shallow pie dish,Fold one pastry sheet in half and gently stretch or roll it to line the base and sides of the pie dish.
Spoon the chicken filling into the base and spread it out evenly,Fold the second pastry sheet in half and gently stretch or roll it to top the pie dish,Seal the edges, then trim off any excess pastry,Beat the egg with two tablespoons of water, then brush a thin layer of egg wash all over the top of the pie,Bake at 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7 for an hour, until a deep golden brown.
After 45 minutes, cover the pie with baking paper to stop it browning too much.Toyo Odetunde is a food writer and supper club host
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