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Wine magnums aren’t just for Christmas – or even champagne

about 9 hours ago
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There are many reasons you may want to buy a magnum, and those reasons multiply and proliferate around this time of the year.Your usual night in with your partner becomes a party for six.Dinner with the family becomes an enormous pre-Christmas do, with thirsty adults and kids in the way everywhere.And watering the masses can get expensive, not to mention cumbersome.The Guardian’s journalism is independent.

We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link.Learn more.I often recommend boxed wines for this specific quandary.I’ve written before about the joys of bag-in-box, but to give you the top line: it’s at least two bottles in a fridge-friendly box, and it stays good for up to six weeks.But if you prefer the allure of a glass bottle, and the idea of all attention in the room being drawn to what’s in your hand as you enter it, then a magnum might be a fun thing to unsheathe during the festivities, after the first cocktails have been sipped and glasses are empty.

At one and a half litres, a magnum is simply twice the size of a regular 750ml bottle, but the closure (ie, the entrance to the bottle) is the same size as a regular one, which means that less oxygen gets into the wine,Many wine lovers say this works wonders on the liquid inside,I asked Sandia Chang, co-founder of the two Michelin-starred Kitchen Table in London, about serving from a magnum – does she believe the wines are better? “The ratio of wine to oxygen is much less in a magnum, so any ageing that the wine has under cork is slower and more gentle,”What’s the science behind this? Well, because it has the same size of closure as a regular bottle, the wine-to-ullage (that is, the air under the cork) ratio is significantly less,Air is key to the development and aging of a wine, which is why we decant bottles and serve them in expensive glasses with wide bowls to help us really taste it.

And the less air there is in the bottle to interact with the wine, the slower its evolution and development.That’s not to say all magnums are created with the intention of ageing; there are plenty of fresh, fruity wines and simple sparklings bottled in magnum that are designed to be drunk right this minute.A magnum of Provençal rosé, for instance, is most likely about the spectacle, rather than the promise of an old wine.As the owner of grower champagne specialist Bubbleshop, I assume Chang’s favourite wine to serve by the magnum is champagne, but I’m wrong: “My favourite is actually riesling,” she tells me.“Traditional riesling bottles are taller and more narrow, meaning a magnum can be strikingly tall.

It feels more playful and it’s just fun!”La Gioiosa Prosecco Rosé DOC £22 Majestic, 10,5%,A high-street prosecco that I actually enjoy: all bright strawberry and a persistent mousse,Cristóbal 1492 Malbec £35 Tanners Wine Merchants, 13,5%.

A classically presented Argentinian malbec with plump, red plum and spice from oak ageing.It even comes in a gifting case!Berry Bros & Rudd Good Ordinary Claret by Dourthe 2020 £28.50, 14.5%.An icon for a reason: outrageous-value bordeaux, especially en magnum.

Weingut Wess Kremstal Reserve Old Vine Riesling 2023 £59 The Wine Society, 12.5%.A towering Austrian riesling brimming with flowers and spice.
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How to turn the dregs of a jar of Marmite into a brilliant glaze for roast potatoes – recipe | Waste not

I never peel a roastie, because boiling potatoes with their skins on, then cracking them open, gives you the best of both worlds: fluffy insides and golden, craggy edges. Especially when you finish roasting them in a glaze made with butter (or, even better, saved chicken, pork, beef or goose fat) and the last scrapings from a Marmite jar.I’ve always been fanatical about Marmite, so much so that I refuse to waste a single scoop. I used to wrestle with a butter knife, scraping endlessly at the jar’s sticky bottom, until I learned that there’s a reason the rounded pot has a small flat spot on each side. When you get close to the end of the jar, store the pot on its side, so the last of that black gold inside pools neatly into the side for easy removal

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What’s the secret to great chocolate mousse? | Kitchen aide

I always order chocolate mousse in restaurants, but it never turns out quite right when I make it at home. Help! Daniel, by email“Chocolate mousse defies physics,” says Nicola Lamb, author of Sift and the Kitchen Projects newsletter. “It’s got all the flavour of your favourite chocolate, but with an aerated, dissolving texture, which is sort of extraordinary.” The first thing you’ve got to ask yourself, then, is what kind of mousse are you after: “Some people’s dream is rich and dense, while for others it’s light and airy,” Lamb says, which is probably why there are so many ways you can make it.That said, in most cases you’re usually dealing with some form of melted chocolate folded into whipped eggs (whites, yolks or both), followed by lightly whipped cream

2 days ago
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The small plates that stole dinner: how snacks conquered Britain’s restaurants

It’s love at first bite for diners. From cheese puffs to tuna eclairs, chefs are putting some of their best ideas on the snack menuElliot’s in east London has many hip credentials: the blond-wood colour scheme, the off-sale natural wine bottles, LCD Soundsystem and David Byrne playing at just the right decibel. The menu also features the right buzzwords, such as “small plates” and “wood grill”.But first comes “snacks”. There are classics: focaccia, olives, anchovies on toast

2 days ago
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‘Alicante cuisine epitomises the Mediterranean’: a gastronomic journey in south-east Spain

The Alicante region is renowned for its rice and seafood dishes. Less well known is that its restaurant scene has a wealth of talented female chefs, a rarity in SpainI’m on a quest in buzzy, beachy Alicante on the Costa Blanca to investigate the rice dishes the Valencian province is famed for, as well as explore the vast palm grove of nearby Elche. I start with a pilgrimage to a restaurant featured in my book on tapas, New Tapas, a mere 25 years ago. Mesón de Labradores in the pedestrianised old town is now engulfed by Italian eateries (so more pizza and pasta than paella) but it remains a comforting outpost of tradition and honest food.Here I catch up with Timothy Denny, a British chef who relocated to Spain, gained an alicantina girlfriend and became a master of dishes from the region

3 days ago
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Rukmini Iyer’s quick and easy recipe for spiced paneer puffs with quick-pickled carrot raita | Quick and easy

These moreish little pastries are as lovely for a snack as they are for dinner, and they take just minutes to put together. I like to fill squares of pastry and fold them into little triangular puffs, but if you prefer more of a Cornish pasty look (*food writer cancelled for suggesting paneer is an appropriate pasty filling!*), by all means stamp out circles, fold into half-moons and crimp the edges.Prep 20 min Cook 25 min Serves 3-4225g block paneer 2 spring onions, trimmed20g mint leavesZest of 1 lime, plus 15ml lime juice1 green chilli, deseeded if you wish1 heaped tsp flaky sea salt1 tbsp self-raising flour320g roll puff pastry 1 egg, beatenFor the quick-pickled carrot raita ½ tsp fennel seeds ½ tsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed30ml white-wine vinegar½ tsp flaky sea salt, crumbled2 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped300g carrots, peeled, quartered lengthways and finely sliced150g natural yoghurtHeat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. Tip the paneer, spring onions, mint leaves, lime zest and juice, green chilli and salt into a food processor, and blitz, scraping down the sides occasionally, until the mix resembles very fine couscous. Add the flour, and blitz again until the mix has broken down even more finely

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Chef Skye Gyngell, who pioneered the slow food movement, dies aged 62

Tributes have been paid to the pioneering chef and restaurant proprietor Skye Gyngell, who has died aged 62.The Australian was an early celebrity proponent of using local and seasonal ingredients and built a garden restaurant from scratch, the Petersham Nurseries Cafe in Richmond, south-west London, which went on to win a Michelin star.A statement released by her family and friends read: “We are deeply saddened to share news of Skye Gyngell’s passing on 22 November in London, surrounded by her family and loved ones.“Skye was a culinary visionary who influenced generations of chefs and growers globally to think about food and its connection to the land.“She leaves behind a remarkable legacy and is an inspiration to us all

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