Extracting hangovers from beer: inside the world’s biggest ‘nolo’ brewery in south Wales
A “de-alcoholisation facility” sounds like somewhere to check in after a boozy Christmas, but in the new annexe of a brewery in south Wales they are extracting hangovers from beer.With demand for no-alcohol and low-alcohol (“nolo”) beer taking off in the UK, the hi-tech brewing apparatus enables the plant at Magor, which produces more than 1bn pints of Budweiser, Corona and Stella Artois a year, to make the increasingly popular teetotal versions too.The new unit is part of AB InBev’s global brewing empire and at its official opening on Friday, Brian Perkins, whose wider management responsibilities include running the drinks group’s UK arm, acknowledged that in the early days alcohol-free beer tasted “lousy”.Alcohol gives beer a sweet, warming, full-bodied taste, as well as affecting how other flavour compounds evaporate, resulting in its distinctive flavour.So removing it and being left with a drink that still tastes good has been a huge challenge for the industry.
“No-alcohol beer used to taste terrible because the technology was quite primitive,” Perkins said.“Beer is very delicate; you need to treat it with care, and that ended up affecting the taste.You got beer with no alcohol but it tasted lousy.”But the world has moved on.The de-alcoholisation unit uses state-of-the-art technology that represents a “significant step forward in preserving the full flavour and aroma of the beer”, according to the company.
The brew undergoes its metamorphosis inside hulking stainless steel columns, with the alcohol extracted using a process called vacuum distillation.This involves reducing the atmospheric pressure, lowering alcohol’s boiling point and allowing the beer to be heated to a warm temperature to retain taste while evaporating the alcohol.By avoiding prolonged exposure to high temperatures, the original character of the tipple (if you are partial to Stella or Corona) is maintained while ensuring it is alcohol-free.Perkins’ view is that the machine “treats the beer very sensitively and delivers a fantastic taste”.From the outside, the news that AB InBev, the world’s biggest brewer with annual sales of $59.
8bn (£44.9bn), is investing in no-alcohol beer might seem like a turkey voting for Christmas, but Perkins calls it a “massive opportunity”.The demand is coming from several places, including drinkers opting for a headache-free Monday-night beer and “zebra stripers” – those alternating between alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks on a night out.“We don’t see it as a disruptor – we see it as something that’s making the category more inclusive,” he said.With 29 no-alcohol beer brands under its belt, including Corona Cero and Budweiser Zero, in its last quarterly update the brewer said its 0% beers powered a 27% increase in global revenue.
The availability of alcohol-free beers on tap in pubs is expected to further normalise the choice.In the summer, Stella Artois 0.0 made its draught debut at Wimbledon and the range is now being trialled at a small number of UK pubs in readiness for a bigger rollout next year.Sign up to Business TodayGet set for the working day – we'll point you to all the business news and analysis you need every morningafter newsletter promotionThe prize could be big.In 2024, the UK beer market was worth more than £13.
5bn, according to the drinks industry data company IWSR.Since 2019, the average annual growth in demand for no-alcohol beer has topped 20% to account for 2% of the market by volume.IWSR predicts this figure will double to 4% in 2029.Susie Goldspink, IWSR’s head of nolo alcohol, said 0% beer was the most dynamic area of the new market.“Innovation levels are high, consumer engagement continues to grow, and there is plenty of headroom for growth,” she said.
One gripe from consumers is that alcohol-free beer often costs the same as the heavily taxed real thing.Perkins says it charges a fair price and points to the additional expense involved.“We brew the beer according to the same process, and then add a step and that step has required new capital equipment and millions of dollars,” he said.The $3.9m that the company has poured into the de-alcoholisation facility is small beer in the context of the vast global brewing industry, but Perkins calls it a “significant step” at a time when he senses rivals “pulling back” from investing in the UK.
“Magor has long been a centre of innovation … and this facility helps secure its role for the future,” he said.It is not hard to see why competitors might sit on their hands.The hospitality industry is in turmoil as consumers rein in spending at a time when business costs are rising.The government’s decision to raise employer national insurance contributions was unpopular, but the overhaul of business rates announced in the budget has proved the final straw for some.Attending the opening, Chris Bryant, the minister for trade policy, pointed to the business rates help package, which includes £3.
2bn in transitional relief (which caps the increase in rates for each year),Bryant said the investment in Magor was “protecting jobs and making sure that we’ve got them into the future,People’s [drinking] habits are changing and that’s why it’s good we’re going to have alcohol-free beer brewed in south Wales, rather than relying on it coming from the Netherlands or Belgium,”
Christmas mixers: Thomasina Miers’ recipes for fire cider and spiced cocktail syrup
Despite being known for shaking a cocktail on Instagram now and again, very little will induce me to last-minute cocktailery if I am entertaining a serious number of guests. However, a good drinks recipe that you can prep in advance is a lovely thing to dazzle your friends with and to gift over Christmas. With or without alcohol, this pair look good and taste delicious, and should help everyone ease into the December festivities.This makes a delicious base to which you can add soda, juice, tonic or any other mixer for a thirst-quenching and delicious alternative to an alcoholic drink in the evening. Prep 15 minInfuse 1 week+ Makes 500ml bottleFor the fire cider2 jalapeños, finely sliced seeds and all1 large thumb of ginger, peeled and finely sliced2 branches fresh rosemary1 cinnamon stick3 heaped tbsp honey2 garlic cloves, peeled1 thumb turmeric, peeled and finely sliced (optional)350ml apple cider vinegarFor the cranberry fizz (serves 1)30ml fire cider 75ml cranberry juice1 wedge of orange Sparkling water, to topMix all the ingredients for the fire cider in a sterilised 500ml jar, then put in the fridge for at least week, and preferably three to extract the most goodness from the ingredients
Jamie Oliver to relaunch Italian restaurant chain in UK six years after collapse
Jamie Oliver is to revive his Jamie’s Italian restaurant chain in the UK, more than six years after the celebrity chef’s brand collapsed.Jamie’s Italian is poised to be relaunched in the spring, starting with a restaurant in London’s Leicester Square.Oliver’s return to the UK restaurant scene is being backed by Brava Hospitality Group – the private equity-backed group that runs the Prezzo chain – which intends to relaunch the brand across the UK.“As a chef, having the chance to return to the high street is incredibly important to me,” he said. “I will drive the menus, make sure the sourcing is right, the staff training, and ensure the look and feel of the restaurant is brought to life in the right way
Maximum protein, minimal carbs: why gym bros are flocking to Australia’s charcoal chicken shops
From El Jannah’s webpage dedicated to ‘health-conscious individuals’ to Habibi Chicken’s ‘Gym Bro’ pack, businesses are catering to the post-leg day crowdGet our weekend culture and lifestyle emailPopularised in Australia by Balkan and Lebanese immigrants, charcoal chicken has long been part of our comfort-food canon. But recently, the humble chicken shop has had a renaissance – driven by fresh takes on the classics, the expansion of longstanding chains and a surge of protein-conscious gym goers.In June, charcoal chicken chain El Jannah, which has more than 50 stores, launched a page on its website dedicated to protein and macros – complete with recommendations for the best post-leg day order – a clear nod to the fitness crowd.In Wagga Wagga, Habibi Chicken has a “Gym Bro” pack – a half or quarter chicken, tabbouleh, pita and toum, no chips. Co-owner Mariam Rehman says it’s a top seller, designed to maximise protein and reduce carbs
Helen Goh’s recipe for edible Christmas baubles | The sweet spot
These edible baubles make a joyful addition to the Christmas table or tree. Soft, chewy, marshmallow-coated Rice Krispies are studded with pistachios and cranberries, chocolate and ginger, or peppermint candy cane; they’re as fun to make as they are to eat, and they make a perfect little gift. To add a ribbon for hanging, cut small lengths of ribbon, then loop and knot the ends. Push the knotted end gently into the top of each ball while it’s still pliable, then reshape around it, so it holds the knot securely as it sets. Alternatively, wrap each bauble in cellophane, then gather at the top and tie with a ribbon, leaving a long loop for hanging
A gentle trade in edible gifts binds communities together
A guest at our restaurant recently told me about her mother’s seasonal side hustle, though no one would have dared call it that out loud: in the weeks before Christmas, she became a quiet merchant of puddings. The proper kind of pudding, too: all dense but not leaden, heavy with prunes and warm with careful spicing.As December crept in, forgotten cousins and semi-estranged uncles seemed to find reasons to drop by her place. She never advertised the fact, of course, but everyone knew that if you came bearing even a modest offering, you might just leave with a pudding wrapped in waxed paper and still warm with possibility. The exchanges were subtle
Chocolate tart and zabaglione: Angela Hartnett’s easy make-ahead Christmas desserts – recipes
When you’re the cook of the house, you spend quite enough time in the kitchen on Christmas Day as it is. And, after those time-consuming nibbles, the smoked salmon starter and the turkey-with-all-the-trimmings main event, the last thing you want is a pudding that demands even more hands-on time at the culinary coalface. For me, the main requirement of any Christmas dessert is that it can be made well in advance, not least because, by the time the pudding stage comes around, I’ll be completely knackered and more than ready to put up my feet and finally relax (or, more likely, fall asleep on the sofa).Prep 15 minRest 3 hr+Cook 40 minServes 6-8For the sweet pastry500g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 150g caster sugar 250g cold butter, diced2-3 eggs, lightly beatenFor the filling640g 70%-cocoa dark chocolate, broken into small pieces800ml double cream 64g glucose syrup 64g cold butter, cubed 100g roasted hazelnuts, lightly choppedPut the flour and sugar in a large bowl, stir to combine, then add the diced butter and work it in with your fingertips until the mix takes on the consistency of rough breadcrumbs. Add two of the beaten eggs, then mix until the dough comes together into a ball; if need be, add the third beaten egg, but take great care not to overwork the dough
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