Rachel Roddy’s recipe for baked leek and egg gratin | A kitchen in Rome

While sorting out some books the other day, as well as gathering a pile to give away or sell, I spent a large part of two hours looking for books I know I once had, and trying to remember if I had loaned or lost them. And then, in the case of one particular book, ordering another copy. Ten out, one in: not terrible.The book I (re)ordered was Beaneaters and Bread Soup, by Lori de Mori and the photographer Jason Lowe. Gathered over decades of living just outside Florence, the book is a collection of wonderful, practical Tuscan recipes, and also tells a story of Tuscan food through portraits of photogenic local artisans: a chestnut grower, a bee keeper, a man who makes knives … I would mention more if I could find the book, which I suspect was borrowed and never returned – you know who you are! (Unless I have got this wrong and it is behind the bookcase

How to turn scallop roe into a delectable butter – recipe | Waste not

Beyond Jersey’s epic beaches and rugged coastline, the island has an extraordinary food culture, rooted in both land and sea. From world-renowned jersey royal new potatoes to scallops sweeter and more tender than I’ve tasted anywhere, Jersey’s bounty is second to none. What excites me most, though, is how local farmers and producers are embracing regenerative agriculture, and in doing so reimagining the island’s food future with creativity and care. At the heart of that movement is Regen Gathering, a visionary festival that brings together farmers, chefs and food lovers to explore what Jersey’s foodtopia could look like.Last month, I was lucky enough to host a talk at the event, and cook a welcome dinner for all the speakers, alongside Regen’s inspiring founder, India Hamilton

Nicola Lamb’s recipes for toffee apple pie and apple crumb loaf

It’s easy to forget just how extraordinary apples can be. Often relegated to less exciting regions of the fruit bowl, they actually come in a dizzying array of varieties – sharp, sweet, floral, crisp – and each with their own quirks. And now is the time to celebrate apples, so this week I’m giving them the attention they deserve in a no-bake toffee apple pie (banoffee’s autumn cousin) and a soft, cinnamon-spiced crumb cake.You will need a 23cm loose-bottomed tart tin.Prep 10 min Cook 1 hr 10 min Chill 2 hr+ Serves 8-10For the case275g digestive biscuits ¼ tsp fine sea salt 1 tsp ground cinnamon 140g unsalted butter, meltedFor the caramelised apples500g apples, I used braeburn, but pink lady work well, too70g caster sugar 30g butter 1 tsp lemon juiceFor the sour cream whip50g sour cream 250ml double cream 25g caster sugarTo assemble397g tin dulce de leche (I used Carnation)25g roasted hazelnuts, roughly choppedFor the biscuit base, blitz or bash the digestives into fine crumbs

That won’t wash: should you rinse your mushrooms?

What’s the best way to prep and cook mushrooms? Should I wipe, wash or simply peel them? Olivia, by email “I could witter on about mushrooms all day,” says fungi fan Will Murray, which is good news, because Olivia’s question is somewhat contentious. The chef and co-founder of Fallow, Fowl and Roe, all in London, even grows his own shrooms, and advises his chefs to clean them “at least three times in bowls of cold water”, which brings us straight to the great mushroom washing debate, which has been rumbling on for years.Writing in the Guardian in 2003, Heston Blumenthal called advice against washing mushrooms in water in case they become waterlogged “nonsense”. He cites Harold McGee, who tested this theory in his book The Curious Cook: “McGee weighed 252g fresh mushrooms, submerged them in water for five minutes, then removed them, blotted the surface moisture and reweighed them.” The result was 258g, which, as McGee noted, is a 16th of a teaspoon of extra water per mushroom

Thomasina Miers’ recipes for mushroom linguine with chard, and poached pears with spiced hazelnut crumble

My farmers’ market (and my beds) are full of swiss chard. It is one of the few edible plants I could cope with this year – it grows with such ease and grows back so quickly after each picking that I feel it is the ultimate kitchen gardener’s friend. It is a great bedfellow for mushrooms, which lend a bit of meatiness to those leaves. With those, I also like to add ancho, a rich, full-bodied but not spicy chilli that is readily available in flaked form in many supermarkets around the country (nora or guajillo are good substitutes), while the feta, like queso fresco in Mexico, adds a lovely, tangy saltiness. It’s a dish for those Sundays when you are low on time, but want a rich, soothing feast

Rukmini Iyer’s quick and easy recipe for lime dal with roast squash and chilli cashews | Quick and easy

This might come as a surprise to some readers, but I am not a fan of dal. There were just two versions that I liked, and both were made by my mother: one with lime and coconut, the other a slow-cooked black dal with cream (even nicer than the Dishoom version). But now a third quick-cook dal has made it into my hall of fame. And the secret? Blitzing it until very smooth, then serving with a topping of roast squash and moreish chilli cashews. It’s a revelation that’s now on my weekly rotation