Jacob Bethell plays starring role in Ashes Wars Episode 5: A New Hope | Barney Ronay

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Et in dystopia ego.In the midst of death, we are in life.On a throbbingly hot deep blue afternoon in Sydney, as this ghost ship of an England Ashes tour creaked towards its final dock, the fourth day of the fifth Test produced an unexpected late plot twist.Something good happened.Jacob Bethell batted for six hours from mid-morning to close of play and scored a hundred of rare beauty at the SCG.

It was an easy, crisp kind of beauty too, all classical lines and symmetry, an innings of layers and gears, of comforting rhythms, shot through with moments of balletic power.It seems a bit absurd that Bethell’s first professional red-ball hundred should come on this stage.But then, this was just one of those moments in sport where a genuinely elite talent reveals itself.And Bethell is so clearly a premium product, despite the best efforts of the England regime to fudge his progress.He’s the Mercedes- Benz SL convertible.

He’s an entire wheel of cave-aged yak milk super cheese.He’s a third-innings 142 not out at the SCG in bleached-out afternoon sunshine.At times the SCG seemed to be purring to itself, allowing this spectacle to breathe in its own space.So many things have been declared dead on this tour.Test cricket.

The Australian summer,The cult of Baz,Proper batting,Proper bowling,Proper spin bowling.

The art of precision lawn mowing.In the middle of which crowds have kept on packing out the grounds, the TV figures have boomed.And now we had this, evidence of the basic indivisibility of talent, the fact this sport can still produce these shapes and colours, this sense of clarity.It is worth being clear on what a sublime maiden hundred for a hyper-talented 22-year-old actually means.Nature is not healing.

Nothing has been saved.The bruises of this tour are still real, the elite governance of England cricket is still a self-regarding shambles.But at the fag-end of a series that has basically involved shouting unhappily at the sky, there was a sense everyone here needed this, from the storied Aussie bowling legend at the urinal saying oh yeah he just looks really good, to the mid-90s run machine skipping between comms box and pie table muttering yeah he’s got it, to a packed-out crowd gurgling in the sun.Mainly, it was the sense that English cricket might actually still be able to produce a functioning adversary in this sporting contest.Welcome to Episode 5: A New Hope.

The postcolonial empire is very much still in charge of the galaxy,But a plucky little RD droid might just be carrying the plans to some other kind of ending,Even the set up of Bethell’s innings felt epic,England went into bat again 183 runs behind, and lost Zak Crawley in Mitchell Starc’s opening over, lbw not playing a shot,Perhaps this was how it would play out.

Maybe England’s batters would all refuse to engage, raise their bats in submission, a kind of situationist happening, a rejection of the spectacle.At which point Bethell walked out, neat and urgent, sleeves rolled, the kind of cricketer whose kit just seems to fit him better, and began to do the right things.Early on he might have been making a point about whatever it was Ben Duckett was doing at the other end.As Duckett heaved and carved and played statement yahoos, Bethell clipped and nudged and found his timing, lines tight, staying inside his box like a ballroom dancer.His timing through point is just sensational, as much for its clean lines, shapes and movements you will now get to know, to recognise, to digest, a hunger only Test cricket can really satisfy.

At 72 for one he was clanged on the helmet by a good straight bouncer from Cameron Green.He leaves those balls by arching his back, Robin Smith-style, an active, aggressive kind of leave.This takes courage, but also a supreme spatial awareness.Even this felt proper.The blow was glancing.

Bethell grinned and glided on.He went to 43 with a dreamy back-foot punch.His 50 came up with a vicious square cut that erased the fielder on the boundary.It took 87 balls.Even his wagon wheel was perfectly symmetrical, like a set of Palladian columns.

There was nothing chancy here, no manufactured shots, just a perfectly controlled command of defence and aggression.Bethell went to 96, his previous highest score with a vicious, liberating pull in front of square.For a while Scott Boland teased him with that half-length, not quite there, seaming away, saying: go on, throw all your hopes, your work, your energy at this thing out here.Bethell stayed in his own space.It was one of those lovely moments, cricket talking to itself, in a voice you only get to hear if you’ve followed the whole conversation.

He lingered for a while on 99.The hundred came up off Beau Webster’s off-breaks, a loft over midwicket, wonderfully bold in the moment.This was a brilliant Test hundred, 103 off 162 balls against an elite attack on a wearing pitch, and an innings that will now be endlessly diced and divvied up, its entrails read, its meaning unspooled.Bethell at the SCG was evidence of life, and also of how this England Test team can survive and evolve.It will also be seen as a rejection of the Baz era, some kind of cultural waypoint.

Behold: actual, non-stupid batting, at one end at least.But it wasn’t exactly a repudiation.No baggage, no fear: this was Bazball in essence.And it is all Bethell really did here.Maybe this is the twist.

Maybe in the end there was no Bazball.Bruce Willis is already dead.The crossword book is lying untouched on the table.And what Bethell’s brilliance tells us is that there are only two types of batting.Good batting and bad batting.

Play freely,Judge risk and reward,Be good at cricket,The transcendent game states, the waffle, the corners cut, the paring back,This is just a product to be sold, one that comes with its own very obvious limits.

Bethell has survived this England regime, despite its best efforts to muddle his progress, to make him a cause celebre for bashing county cricket and all the rest of it.Which one of these things do you want to trust in now?
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Hurrah for veganism and Victorian sewers | Letters

As a vegan of nearly 40 years, I agree with much of what Dean Weston says about animal welfare (Letters, 30 December). But as a former civil engineer, I cannot overlook the massive category mistakes in his assertion that the government’s animal welfare strategy “treats animal suffering the way Victorian engineers treated cholera. Add a valve here, a filter there, and never question the sewer itself.”Victorian engineers did not “treat” cholera, but were arguably more effective than the medical profession in dealing with the disease. They reduced the prevalence of cholera precisely by constructing adequate sanitation

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What can I use in vegetarian curries instead of coconut milk? | Kitchen aide

I want to make more vegetarian curries, but most call for a tin of coconut milk and I’m trying to cut down on saturated fats. What can I use instead? Jill, via emailCoconut milk brings silkiness and sweet richness to curries, and also mellows spices, so any substitute will likely change the nature of the dish. That said, if you really want to avoid the white stuff, Karan Gokani, author of Indian 101, would simply replace it with vegetable stock. Another easy swap (if you’re not averse to dairy) is yoghurt, says John Chantarasak, chef and co-owner of AngloThai in London, which is handy, because “that’s normally hanging about in the fridge”.Not all curries involve coconut milk, however, and it’s these that perhaps offer a better solution to Jill’s conundrum

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Kenji Morimoto’s recipe for root vegetable rösti with crisp chickpeas

I’m a sucker for a rösti, and I truly believe it makes the best breakfast, brunch – or any meal, really. This one leans into the amazing varieties of root vegetables we have at our disposal, and it is especially stunning when layered and presented with all of the other elements: a bold mustard aïoli, crisp curried chickpeas, and an easy parsley and red onion salad that is quick-pickled to provide an acidic finish to a satisfying dish.These rösti are easy to customise (although I’d suggest going for a combination of at least two root vegetables); they freeze well, too, making those lazy weekend brunches that much easier.Prep 30 min Cook 30 min Serves 2-4For the chickpeas400g tin chickpeas, drained 2 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp salt 1 tsp curry powder 1 tsp smoked paprikaFor the salad80g red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 10g parsley leaves Zest of 1 lemon, plus juice of ½ 1 tsp sumac 1 pinch saltFor the mustard aïoli 100g mayonnaise 1 tbsp English mustard Juice of ½ lemonFor the rösti300g root vegetables (such as beetroot, sweet potato, parsnip), peeled and grated80g red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 2 tbsp plain flour 1 egg Neutral oil, for cookingHeat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 and line a baking sheet with baking paper. Pat the drained chickpeas dry with kitchen towel, then tip them on to the lined sheet

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Adults in England eating as much salt a day as in 22 bags of crisps, study shows

Adults in England eat the same amount of salt every week as is found in 155 bags of crisps, according to analysis by a leading health charity.The British Heart Foundation, which carried out the study, said this also equated to 22 bags a day of ready salted, lightly salted or sea salt crisps.“Most of the salt we eat is hidden in the food we buy, such as bread, cereals, pre-made sauces and ready meals, so it’s hard to know how much salt we’re consuming,” said Dell Stanford, a senior BHF dietitian.“This is bad news for our heart health, as eating too much salt significantly increases the risk of high blood pressure, a major cause of heart attacks, strokes and other serious diseases.”It is estimated that eating dangerously high amounts of salt contributes to at least 5,000 deaths a year in the UK from heart attacks, strokes and other cardiovascular conditions

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Rukmini Iyer’s quick and easy recipe for roast sweet potato, feta and butter bean traybake | Quick and easy

A brilliant, warming 30-minute traybake, all in one tin. I love the combination of roast sweet potatoes with crumbled feta and a bright, fresh pesto; adding butter beans to the mix brings another hit of protein, as well as getting more legumes into your diet – win-win! A jar or tin of chickpeas would work just as well, if that’s what you have in, and feel free to substitute the parsley for other soft herbs, should you wish.Prep 15 min Cook 30 min Serves 22 large sweet potatoes, scrubbed or peeled (up to you) and cut into 1½cm chunks570g jar butter beans (or 400g tin butter beans), drained and rinsed2 tbsp olive oil 2 tsp smoked paprika2 tsp flaky sea salt 200g block feta, crumbledFor the spring onion pesto 25g flat-leaf parsley, leaves and tender stems3 spring onions, trimmed and roughly chopped50g almonds, or pine nuts 50ml extra-virgin olive oilJuice of ½ lemonHeat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Tip the sweet potato chunks, butter beans, olive oil, smoked paprika and a teaspoon of sea salt into a roasting tin or tray large enough to hold everything in almost one layer, mix well, then roast for 30 minutes.Meanwhile, blitz the parsley, spring onions, nuts, olive oil, lemon juice and half a teaspoon of salt in a high-speed blender or chopper

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Overnight oats, spinach pie and cheesy corn muffins: Alexina Anatole’s recipes for make-ahead breakfasts

The saying goes that you should breakfast like a king, and I’ve long found that the key to making that happen during the busy work week is to batch-prepare breakfast at the weekend. As we start a new year, the focus is back on balance, and these dishes offer both nourishment and flavour, while also being ideal for making ahead. The overnight oats are a source of fibre, the muffins are high in protein and the pie is a source of both.Prep 5 minCook 10 minSoak OvernightServes 4120g rolled oats 1 tsp ground cinnamon 4 small pears, 2 grated, 2 to garnishSalt120ml freshly squeezed orange juice (from 3-4 small oranges)2 balls stem ginger, finely chopped, plus 1½ tbsp syrup from the jar 200g greek yoghurt, plus extra to serveSliced pistachios, to serve (optional)In a small bowl, mix the oats, cinnamon, grated pears and a pinch of salt. In a second bowl, stir the orange juice, chopped stem ginger and ginger syrup, then stir this and the yoghurt through the oat mix