England are right to stick with a settled top six – Bethell should follow the Lara model | Mark Ramprakash

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There always seems to be one man under pressure in England’s batting lineup and consensus over the winter seemed to be that Jacob Bethell’s emergence had put Ollie Pope’s place at risk.Pope has clung on to his place for the start of the India series and my view is that Ben Stokes and Brendon McCullum should be very careful before they mess with what is probably the most settled top six of any Test side in the world at the moment.There was speculation about Pope and Zak Crawley before they scored centuries in last month’s game against Zimbabwe, but that performance should have secured their spots for this series at least.Bethell is a huge talent and some really top cricketers have spoken very highly about his performances and potential – clearly his time will come.He was impressive in New Zealand over the winter and since then we’ve seen exhilarating glimpses of his ability in shorter formats.

Who knows what lies ahead for him but, in considering his position now, I think back to the visit of West Indies in 1991, when they had an emerging left-handed batter in their squad by the name of Brian Lara,Though people were already hugely excited by him, Lara spent the entire series as 12th man before coming into the side the following year, and while the rest of Bethell’s career may not live up to that of the brilliant Trinidadian, I can see its next stage following Lara’s,My instinct is that England are unlikely to shuffle the pack for a while,With no one currently struggling for form there is a lot to be said for continuity – I’m sure India wouldn’t mind having a bit more of it,The last time they arrived for the start of a new Test series they had Rohit Sharma and Virat Kohli in their team, and England had Jimmy Anderson and Stuart Broad in theirs.

Four giants of the Test game, and now they have all gone.If England have already had some time to rebuild after the loss of their two great seamers, India are now going through a changing of the guard, a subplot that adds to the intrigue around what I think will be an enthralling series.Sign up to The SpinSubscribe to our cricket newsletter for our writers' thoughts on the biggest stories and a review of the week’s actionafter newsletter promotionIndia have a combination of a new Test captain in Shubman Gill and an experienced campaigner as a coach in Gautam Gambhir, who is known for being a tough, demanding, competitive guy, and very proud to represent his country.We know to an extent what to expect from England, but for all that India still have a squad packed with established names, there remains the thrill of the unknown.I was working for the BBC the last time they played a Test here, the final game of the aborted 2021 Test series which was rearranged for Edgbaston the following summer.

That was a thriller: there was a point when it looked like India were in the ascendancy as they piled on the runs in the third innings but then a couple of poor shots gave England a way back in.They still had to chase 378, but Zak Crawley played one of his more mature, orthodox innings to help lay the foundations, Joe Root and Jonny Bairstow both scored centuries and they ended up knocking off the runs with ease.I’m sure some members of England’s current dressing room will have thought back to that game, and it might be a bit of a blueprint for the way they want to go about things.When I was working with the England side we tended to play in very traditional English conditions, fairly green surfaces with a lot of lateral movement, swing and nip off the seam, and we relied on Anderson and Broad to make the most of it.That made us a real handful at home, and forced overseas teams to adjust their methods.

Under McCullum and Stokes we have seen flat, dry wickets where the batters can really look to dominate, and England then rely on Stokes’s ingenuity in the field to conjure up 20 wickets and win the game.That 2022 match showed that England can beat a top-class India side on a flat, dry pitch.The current forecast suggests the series will start in hot conditions, which will test England’s bowlers.Brydon Carse has a chance to lead the attack in the first game while Josh Tongue keeps his place, both having impressed in their brief time in an England shirt.They are tall players with good pace and a challenging angle: their release point is slightly past the perpendicular, which is not something either would have been coached to do but which does make it more awkward for a batter to line up.

Add to them a fully fit Stokes contributing in short bursts and the known quality of Chris Woakes, and England’s seam offering looks well rounded.They have clearly had the Ashes on their minds for a while and, though this series is big enough to push those thoughts away for a few weeks, it is perfect preparation for the intensity they will have to bring in the winter.I will be intrigued to see if by then Bethell has got another chance to prove he is more than an apprentice.
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The secret to crisp tofu | Kitchen aide

I want to like tofu, but I don’t because of its rubbery texture. How do I make it nice and crisp? Anne, by email “Moisture is the enemy of crisp tofu,” says Emma Chung, author of Easy Chinese Food Anyone Can Make, so the quest for cubes of bean curd that are crisp on the outside and soft on the inside starts by getting rid of as much excess water as possible (and choosing a tofu labelled “firm” or “extra-firm” in the first place). “I usually do this by wrapping the tofu in tea towels, placing it between two large plates and putting a heavy pot or pan on top,” Chung says. After 10 minutes, you “should have a nice and firm tofu that will have a lovely texture, and it will be a lot easier to crisp up”.Guardian columnist Ravinder Bhogal, meanwhile, pops her tofu on a wire rack set over a tray and covers it with kitchen paper or a clean cloth: “Put a weight on top and leave it for a couple of hours, and ideally overnight – that will squeeze out the excess moisture

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José Pizarro’s recipe for broad bean and mint tortilla with a manchego crust

In Spain we say, “Habas en abril empiezan y en abril se acaban” – that is, broad beans begin in April and end in April. In the UK, the season starts a bit later, around June, so we’ve got a bit more time yet to enjoy them. Still, the season is short, so I use these wonderful beans as much as I can, while I can. This is the kind of dish I’d make on a quiet afternoon: simple, full of flavour, nothing fancy. Just a nice way to enjoy what the season gives you, before it disappears again for another year

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Rukmini Iyer’s quick and easy recipe for tandoori chicken skewers with coriander chutney | Quick and easy

I’ve been on a quest for the perfect tandoori marinade (without the E numbers or red food colouring) for years, and tweak my recipe on every repeat. This one is easily my favourite so far: the cloves lend a wonderful smokiness, and if you can pop the chicken in the marinade in the morning, it will have taken on an amazing depth of flavour by the evening. This would work just as well on a barbecue – just scale up the amount of chicken and the marinade ingredients as needed.You will need four large metal or bamboo skewers (if using the latter, soak them in water for half an hour first). Serve with flatbreads or naan, and shredded lettuce, if you wish

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Pastry perfection: Anna Higham’s recipes for chicken and herb pie and foldover pissaladière

Warmer weather always has me dreaming of elaborate picnics, just like the ones my mum used to take us on as kids. She made superlative chicken pies, and I always think of them at this time of year. Mum would use shop-bought pastry, but here I’ve made a herby rough puff to up the summery feeling. The onion and anchovy turnovers, meanwhile, are the perfect pocket savouries to keep you going on a long walk or day out. You could always make one batch of pastry and halve the amount of both fillings, so you can have some of each

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How to make chocolate chip cookies – recipe | Felicity Cloake's Masterclass

Once upon a time, not so long ago, the only so-called chocolate chip cookies on offer in the UK were, in fact, biscuits – small, brittle ones peppered with tiny, waxy, cocoa-coloured pellets. When I finally discovered the soft, chewy American originals in a subterranean outlet at Birmingham New Street station, my teenage mind was officially blown. These are even better.Prep 25 min, plus chilling Cook 15 min Makes 15120g room-temperature butter 170g dark chocolate 75g light brown sugar 75g granulated sugar ½ tsp vanilla extract A pinch of salt 1 egg, beaten240g plain flour ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda Sea salt flakes (optional)Make sure your butter is soft enough to beat – if your kitchen is very cold, or you’ve forgotten to get it out of the fridge in time, dice it and leave it out on the counter while you gather together the rest of the ingredients. I tend to use salted butter for baking, as for everything else, but it’s up to you

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Ragù, Bristol BS1: ‘I recommend it wholly, effusively and slightly enviously’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

Ragù is a cool, minimal, romantic ode to Italian cooking that’s housed in a repurposed shipping container on Wapping Wharf in waterside Bristol. No, come back, please – don’t be scared. There are tables, chairs, napkins, reservations and all the other accoutrements of a bricks-and-mortar restaurant, even if this metal box may at some point in its existence once have been used to ship things to China and back. To my mind, Wapping Wharf has gone from strength to strength in recent years, and no longer feels at all like one of those novelty “box parks” that have about them a heavy whiff of the edgy temporary fixture. Today’s Wapping Wharf is a true independent food destination in its own right, and with a bird’s-eye view from one of Ragù’s window seats, while eating venison rump with gorgonzola dolce and sipping a booze-free vermouth, you can watch the crowds head for the likes of the modern French Lapin, Tokyo diner Seven Lucky Gods, modern British Box-E, Gurt Wings and many more; by day, there’s also a bakery, a butcher, a fromagerie and so on