Coconut dal, cheesy pickle toasties, carrot halva cakes: Ravinder Bhogal’s tastes of home – recipes
Public institutions, from hospitals to museums, are the most international communities, both in the workforce and in those who visit,It’s something that became obvious to us when we were cooking our globally inspired meals for frontline workers at Kings College Hospital, London, during the pandemic,The menu at Café Jikoni, our new restaurant at the V&A East museum, speaks to the depth and breadth of east London’s diverse community, with dishes that cross borders, celebrate pluralism and taste like home – wherever that may be,After all, the best hospitality is all about making your guests feel at home,This dal wanders from India into Thailand; we make a curry paste from scratch at Café Jikoni, but using a good-quality one, such as Maeploy, is a smart shortcut.
Prep 10 min Cook 35 min Serves 4-61 tbsp coconut oil 1 quill cinnamon 4 green cardamom pods 1 star anise3 tbsp red curry paste400ml coconut milk 300g red lentils, washed and drained250g carrots, chopped into thick rounds30g soft light palm sugar, or to taste30ml fish sauce, or to taste1 heaped tbsp tamarind extract, or to tasteJuice of 1 lime, to finishPicked coriander leaves, to garnishPut the oil in an extra-large saucepan on a medium-high heat, then fry the cinnamon, cardamom and star anise until fragrant,Add the curry paste, stir-fry for three to four minutes, until toasted and beginning to deepen in colour, then tip in the coconut milk and 600ml water, and bring to a simmer,Add the lentils and carrots, turn down the heat to low-medium, and simmer uncovered for about 25 minutes, until the lentils are tender,In the last few minutes of cooking, season to taste with palm sugar, fish sauce and tamarind for a balance of salty, sweet, and sour,Add the lime juice, then serve scattered with coriander.
Spiky aubergine pickle, a cooling, herbaceous chutney and melted cheese make up my perfect grilled cheese sandwich,Prep 20 min Cook 50 min Makes 4 sandwiches2 tbsp neutral oil, such as avocado¼ tsp fenugreek seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 cinnamon stick, broken up12 fresh curry leaves2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced3cm piece ginger, peeled and cut into fine matchsticks2 green serrano chillies, slit open lengthways 1 tsp turmeric powder ¼ teaspoon chilli flakes ½ tsp chilli powder 1 large aubergine (about 500g), cut into 2cm dice75ml white-wine vinegar 40g light soft brown sugar Sea salt, to tasteFor the green chutney100g fresh coriander (including stalks) 20g fresh mint leaves20 cashews, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes and drained1 green chilli, roughly chopped1 small garlic clove, peeled and finely choppedJuice of 1 limeSea salt, to taste1 heaped tsp caster sugar 60ml ice-cold waterFor the sandwiches125g butter, softened8 thick slices white sourdough75g mature cheddar, grated75g mozzarella, gratedPut everything for the chutney in a blender and whizz to a fine puree,For the pickle, put the oil in a wide saucepan on a medium heat, then scatter in the fenugreek, fennel, cumin and cinnamon, and let the seeds crackle,Add the curry leaves, then turn down the heat so the spices don’t catch and burn,Add the garlic and ginger, stir-fry for a couple of minutes, until golden and fragrant, then drop in the chillies and cook until they lighten in colour.
Sprinkle in the turmeric, chilli flakes and chilli powder, then add the aubergine and saute for 30 seconds, stirring to coat it in the spices.Pour in the vinegar, sugar and salt, bring to a boil, then turn down the heat, cover and leave to simmer over a low heat for half an hour, until the aubergine is tender.Take off the heat and leave to cool.Heat a sandwich toaster or frying pan.Butter both sides of the bread and put half the slices butter-side down on a sheet of baking paper.
Generously smear each one with the chutney, a mixture of both cheeses and the aubergine pickle, then sandwich together with the remaining slices of bread.Cook in the toastie maker or hot pan until the cheese has melted and the bread is a deep golden brown.Carrot halva is a sticky, spice-laced pudding that’s beloved across India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and the diaspora communities abroad.This cake is reminiscent of halva’s sticky fudginess.Prep 10 min Cook 50 min Makes 12175ml rapeseed oil, plus extra for greasing 200ml whole milk 300g finely grated carrots 100g ground jaggery, or light brown sugar2 large eggs 175g plain flour ¾ tsp bicarbonate of soda/baking soda 1 tsp cinnamon ½ tsp ground cardamom ½ tsp ground ginger SaltFinely grated zest of 1 orange, plus a little extra to garnish Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 75g chopped walnutsFor the cream cheese frosting115g cream cheese 240g icing sugar, sifted¼ tsp cardamom½ lemon, zest finely grated, then juiced to get 1 tspTo garnish12 walnutsFinely grated zest of 1 orangeOil 12 mini bundt tins, making sure you get right into the crevices; alternatively, oil a muffin tray.
Heat the milk in a pan and, when it comes to a simmer, add the carrots and cook on a low heat until the milk evaporates and the carrots are sticky and fudgy,Take off the heat and leave to cool,Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4,Combine the jaggery and oil in a stand mixer, then beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing until well combined,In a separate bowl, mix the flour, bicarb/baking soda, spices, a pinch of salt and the citrus zest, then fold this into the egg mixture, followed by the chopped walnuts and cooked carrots.
Divide the mix evenly between the bundt tins, then bake for 20-25 minutes, until a skewer inserted comes out clean.Remove and leave to cool on a rack.To make the icing, beat the cream cheese until smooth, then add the icing sugar, cardamom, and the lemon zest and juice, and beat again until combined.Pipe or spread the icing over the top of each cake, then stud them with a walnut half and decorate with some orange zest.
‘Hold the line’: Burnham tells allies in parliament he still has options to return
Andy Burnham has told Labour MPs they should hold the line and that he has options to return to parliament after several seats identified by his allies failed to materialise.Two seats that backers of the Greater Manchester mayor had described as “nailed on” as recently as Monday night are now out of contention after the MPs concerned got cold feet.Burnham spoke to a number of MPs by phone on Tuesday and assured them that he still intended to seek an imminent return to parliament.The Guardian was told by two MPs on Wednesday that Jeff Smith, who represents Manchester Withington, an affluent suburb of the city, was in talks about stepping aside for Burnham, but his friends denied it. Asked whether he was about to make way, Smith told the Press Association he was not
EU proposes end to ‘five tabs, three apps and a prayer’ for cross-border train bookings
Cross-border train journeys through several European countries are the stuff of many a holidaymaker’s dreams.But the reality of trying to buy the tickets, navigating multiple websites without knowing who can help if a connection is missed, can prove less than relaxing. As one MEP puts it, it can often require “five tabs, three apps and a prayer”.Now, however, the European Commission has proposed that before the end of the decade passengers should be able to buy one ticket for one journey and be better protected when trains are late or cancelled.“Europeans will be able with the click of a button to plan, compare and purchase multimodal journeys across borders while benefiting from stronger rail passenger rights, greater transparency and better protection every step of the way,” the EU transport commissioner, Apostolos Tzitzikostas, said on Wednesday, as he published new rules intended to transform the “excessively complex” experience he said rail travellers met when booking tickets
What is the king’s speech and what is the state opening of parliament?
The king’s speech is the centrepiece of the state opening of parliament, the main ceremonial event of the parliamentary calendar, and the only regular occasion when the three constituent parts of parliament – the sovereign, the House of Lords and the House of Commons – meet. It marks the start of the new parliamentary year,Although delivered by the monarch in their constitutional role as the UK head of state, the speech is written by the government to outline its policies and proposed legislation for the new parliamentary session. Formally called the “speech from the throne” because it is delivered from the throne of the House of Lords, the monarch reads it out in a neutral tone. Whatever their private feelings the monarch must not show any preference for any political party or its policies.The event is taking place as the prime minister, Keir Starmer, fights for his future in Downing Street after heavy losses in the 7 May elections
Online safety campaigners reveal Starmer frustrations after Phillips exit
Internet safety and children’s rights campaigners have accused Keir Starmer of failing to act on proposals to stop children sending and receiving nude images on their phones, after Jess Phillips resigned from the government saying she was tired of seeing “opportunities for progress stalled and delayed”.The Labour politician was one of four ministers who quit on Tuesday and joined more than 80 MPs calling for the prime minister to go.In a coruscating letter she focused on a lack of urgency and boldness in tackling child abuse images, accusing Starmer of failing to take action to stop children being able to take or send naked pictures.She said: “Over a year ago I presented solutions, long worked on by brilliant civil servants, that would end the ability for children in the UK to take naked images of themselves.“We could stop this abuse
Are working-class voters lost to Labour for good? | Letters
It would be helpful for progressive parties and the media to focus more on why so many people voted for Reform UK. Your article (What’s behind surge in support for Reform and Greens across England? Five key takeaways, 10 May) indicates that it gained more support in deprived areas – but this doesn’t answer the question why.What sort of UK do Reform voters want? Do they want councils that reduce local care services for their vulnerable elderly relatives and children, to save a few pennies off council tax? The ending of environmental protections? The scrapping of equal-opportunities policies that protect women and minority groups?When Reform voters are asked about the party’s policies, they fail to articulate much apart from “stop the boats” – because Reform’s plans have very little detail or real‑world application.The Labour government has been in power for less than two years and has delivered the Renters’ Rights Act and the Employment Rights Act, removed the two-child cap on universal credit, increased provision of free school meals and facilitated millions more NHS appointments.The focus on personality-driven politics has left the door open for local governments to be led by privately educated multimillionaires who dismiss the climate crisis and favour cryptocurrency
Labour MPs channel Tory psychodrama as Starmer keeps hiding in plain sight | John Crace
It used to be football managers who measured their time at a club in months. Or even days at Spurs. Anything over two years qualifies you for a long service medal. Now it’s prime ministers. In fact it’s worse than that
How to make arancini – recipe | Felicity Cloake's Masterclass
Navel gazing: oranges, mandarins and persimmons top Australia’s best-value fruit and veg for May
Australian supermarket sauerkraut taste test: one is ‘like eating the smell of McDonald’s pickle’
Spring soup and bean and cheese quesadillas: Thomasina Miers’ Mexican-inspired seasonal recipes
Willy’s, Margate, Kent: ‘It chortles in the face of small plates’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants
Why sweet, chewy dates go perfectly with chocolate – and the best ones to try