Melon salad and Georgian-style grilled vegetables: Alice Zaslavsky’s recipes for barbecue-friendly sides
Adjapsandal is one of my favourite Georgian go-tos, no matter the season.Its more traditional form is broody and stewy, designed to burble away on a winter stove a bit like ratatouille, but with more fresh herbs.In summer, while the barbecue’s on and veg dishes of this kind are va-va-voom, it makes sense to just chuck them on the barbie instead and perhaps team with a spicy shortcut adjika paste using a jar of roast peppers.And, second, a very adaptable carpaccio for any firm fruit in your fridge or fruit bowl: melons, stone fruit – heck, even pineapple! The key is to use a sharp knife and slice against the grain for the best mouthfeel, much as you might sashimi.Piquillo peppers work best here, if you can find them, but you can use the ones from the deli counter, too, though maybe add a splash more red-wine vinegar to balance the acidity, tasting as you go.
If it’s not barbecue weather, you could also cook this indoors on a griddle – just make sure to get it smoking hot and open a window,Prep 15 min Cook 40 min Serves 4-61 large or 2 medium aubergine (about 500g), cut into 1cm-thick discs 2 large courgettes (about 400g), cut into 1cm-thick discs 1 large red onion (about 250g), peeled and cut into 1cm-thick rings 4 large tomatoes (about 400g), quartered vertically 60ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushingFor the adjika4 garlic cloves 40g sun-dried tomatoes, drained 250g drained piquillo peppers ¼ tsp mild chilli flakes 15g coriander sprigs, leaves picked and reserved to garnish 15g parsley, stems and leaves 15g holy basil, or Thai or young regular basil leaves, plus extra to garnish 30ml neutral oil – I use sunflower or grapeseed1 tsp ground fenugreek 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp salt flakes ½ tsp sugar ¼ tsp ground black pepperTo finish230g natural yoghurtHeat a barbecue or grill plate until smoking,Pop the sliced aubergine and courgette on a baking tray and put the onion and tomato on another,Brush the aubergine generously with olive oil (or use an oil spray); the courgette doesn’t need as much oil, because the residual oil left on the grill by the aubergines will be plenty,Lay the aubergines on the open grill side of the barbecue for 10–15 minutes, turning halfway, until cooked through and with defined char marks (more is more with aubergine, really).
Transfer the cooked slices to the upper rack to keep warm (if you don’t have an upper rack, pop them back on the tray and cover loosely with foil).Next, grill the courgette slices for six to eight minutes, flipping them over halfway.Repeat with the tomatoes and onion, until they are slightly blackened and blistered and seeping out juice.As each vegetable is cooked, introduce them to the aubergines on the upper rack (or in the loosely covered tray) to keep warm.For the adjika, put everything in a small blender and whizz smooth.
Taste and season with salt and pepper.When you’re ready to serve, dot blobs of the adjika and the yoghurt all over a large platter, then use a flexible spatula or the back of a spoon to smear them into a marbled pattern.Arrange all the warm grilled vegetables on top, then finish with extra olive oil, the reserved coriander leaves and extra basil leaves.Some people don’t like coriander (they’re wrong), but you could use basil to make the pesto instead; if need be, it could easily be made days in advance and loosened with extra oil.Serve chilled on a hot summer’s day.
Prep 15 min Cook 15 min Serves 4-6200g yellow cherry tomatoes, thinly sliced 250g baby cucumbers, thinly sliced into rounds 1 tbsp lime juice1 perfectly ripe honeydew melon (about 1.2 kg), peeled and sliced into thin half-moonsFor the coriander pesto25g fresh coriander, prettier sprigs reserved to garnish 40g salted roasted peanuts 30g baby spinach leaves, refreshed in chilled water 125ml neutral oil – I use peanut or rice bran1 garlic clove, peeled ½ tbsp fish sauce ½ tbsp sesame oil Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime½ tsp sugar ½ tsp salt 1 pinch cracked black pepperTo finish1 long green chilli, flesh finely sliced40g salted roasted peanuts, choppedLime cheeksTo make the pesto, muddle all the ingredients in a mortar or blitz in a food processor until smooth.Adjust the seasoning to taste, if necessary, then put in a bowl if serving imminently, or decant into a clean jar and store in the fridge if making ahead.Toss the halved tomatoes and cucumber rounds in the lime juice.Arrange the melon slices on a platter and scatter the tomato and cucumber on top.
Drizzle with the coriander pesto and sprinkle with the sliced chilli, chopped peanuts and reserved coriander sprigs,Serve with lime cheeks for squeezing over,These recipes are edited extracts from Salad for Days, by Alice Zaslavsky, published by Murdoch Books at £20,To support the Guardian, order your copy for £18 at guardianbookshop,com.
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