The 50 best albums of 2025: No 3 – Blood Orange: Essex Honey

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Dev Hynes’ deeply personal response to his mother’s death embodied the many unexpected shades of grief in pastoral hymnals and post-punk The 50 best albums of 2025 More on the best culture of 2025There’s a lot of grief across the best albums of this year.It’s unsurprising: 2025 has felt like a definitive and dismal break with government accountability, protections for marginalised people and holding back the encroachment of AI in creative and intellectual fields, to cherrypick just a few horrors.Anna von Hausswolff and Rosalía reached for transcendence from these earthly disappointments.Bad Bunny and KeiyaA countered colonial abuse and neglect with writhing resistance anthems.On a more personal scale, Lily Allen and Cate Le Bon grappled with disillusionment about mis-sold romantic ideals.

For Jerskin Fendrix, the Tubs, Jennifer Walton, Jim Legxacy and Blood Orange, grief was, straightforwardly, grief for lost loved ones,Each of those albums was as distinctive and profound as any personal experience of loss always is,Dev Hynes’ fifth album as Blood Orange felt uniquely keyed into the fragmented, distracted headspace that comes after someone passes, in his case, his mother,Essex Honey’s restive nature was summed up in its painful opening lines, which you could read as the dying’s acceptance of death starkly contrasting the living’s ability to meet them on those terms: “In your grace, I looked for some meaning,” Hynes sings on Look at You,“But I found none, and I still search for a truth.

”That search is wide-reaching.The Field refashions the Durutti Column’s Sing to Me as a racing hymnal made for the stereo of a Ford Escort.There are tough little Robert Rental-style post-punk gems in The Train (Kings Cross) and Countryside that bristle with frustration.Vivid Light is a plainly soulful duet with Zadie Smith; Life, featuring Tirzah’s unmistakable vocals, basks in languid, flute-dappled funk.Hynes’ focus even shifts within individual songs, often to discomfiting effect.

Without warning, a breakbeat will hurtle in and whip up silky strings; a shriek of flute may vault over drifting, collagist piano noodling, like a meteor singeing the washing line,Thinking Clean starts sounding as though it’s holding on to something, Hynes’ clipped entreaties accompanied by stilted piano; then it spins off into gorgeous disco, relinquishing all its tension – only for grunting cello to stagger in and mute the reverie,Other severe cello motifs repeat across the record, like unexpected jolts back to pain amid sunlit moments of reprieve,But when you let Essex Honey envelop you, it flows like the weather playing through a window,For all its stark contrasts, it’s gorgeously naturalistic, not just for the grounding wisps of found sound throughout – seagull cries, a sample of the 90s Black British sitcom Desmond’s, his mum discussing the Beatles the Christmas before she died – but thanks to Hynes’ elegance as an arranger.

Every song is cast in a wistful glow, and moves the way the mind does.Look at You starts with plush, elongated synth notes that evoke breathing; part way through, Hynes’ own breath seems to take over the motif, and motes of sax and percussion float by like dust across a lens.His own vocal melodies somehow sound incidental and immaculately turned at the same time.He doesn’t often sing alone.The album’s guest list is testament to a Rolodex built up over Hynes’ 20-plus years in music – including Caroline Polachek, Mustafa, Mabe Fratti, Lorde, Brendan Yates of Turnstile – but nor does he deploy his guests showily; more like patchwork pieces in the beautifully lived-in quilt of the record, there as support and to externalise hopeless emotions.

Polachek, who pops up the most, offers an angelic presence with her pristine falsetto.On Mind Loaded, Lorde’s girlish rasp as she exclaims “everything means nothing to me” suggests someone coming apart at the edges.Hynes’ deep voice echoes hers, like an underworld figure affirming her worst fears and tempting her to succumb to darkness: “And it all falls before you reach me.”Essex Honey brushes up against that sort of mindset: when the worst has happened, why does anything else matter? Hynes’ impressionistic lyrics keep looking back, holding on: he disappears to the countryside of his Essex youth, finds solace in the unique comfort of sibling relationships; “regressing back to times you know / Playing songs you forgot you owned” as he sings on Westerberg.He almost didn’t release the record, wondering what the point of it was.

Then he realised how privileged he was to be able to share his music with fans, and Essex Honey comes off as much a gift as a dispossession.The final song, I Can Go, concludes with a mirror image of the first line: “Now, what you know / Is nothing I can hold / I can go,” Mustafa sings.It feels like surrendering to the irretrievable, accepting that the lesson in loss is that there is no lesson.This startling and intuitive record captures the feeling of a life rearranged, and traces its awful new contours beautifully.
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How to turn excess yoghurt into a silky-smooth dessert – recipe | Waste not

A delicious, gelatine-free panna cotta that saves yoghurt from the waste binI was really shocked to learn from environmental action NGO Wrap that, of the 51,000 tonnes of yoghurt that’s wasted in the UK every year, half of it is in unopened pots! The reason is our old arch enemy, date labels, which can cause confusion and trick us into thinking that perfectly safe yoghurt is not OK to eat. That’s one reason many supermarkets have scrapped use-by dates on the likes of yoghurt, but they still use best-before dates. Remember, if a product doesn’t have a use-by date, always do the sniff test before throwing it away.Today’s recipe is a light, gelatine-free version of panna cotta that’s instead set with agar agar (a type of seaweed), which gives it a soft-set texture. It’s refreshing, deliciously sour and simple to make

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Benjamina Ebuehi’s pistachio and cherry meringue cake recipe | The sweet spot

I’m switching up my usual Christmas pavlova this year for a slightly different but equally delicious meringue-based dessert. Discs of pistachio meringue are baked until crisp, then layered with pistachio cream and cherry compote. The meringue softens a little under the cream as it sits, giving it a pleasingly chewy, cake-like texture. A very good option if you’re after a Christmas dessert without chocolate, alcohol or dried fruit.Thanks to the viral Dubai chocolate bar, pistachio creme is quite easy to come by in most supermarkets these days; it’s already sweetened and brings a lovely, soft green colour

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Australian supermarket canned peaches taste test: the winner has an ‘absurdly low price’

In a blind taste test, Nicholas Jordan tastes 14 peaches in cans and plastic jars, in juice and syrup – but only one brand is worthy of decorating a pavlovaIf you value our independent journalism, we hope you’ll consider supporting us todayGet our weekend culture and lifestyle emailBefore this taste test, it had probably been 20 years since I last ate a canned peach. But unlike most things that happened 20 years ago, I have a strong memory of the experience. Canned, tinned or any packaged peaches weren’t a staple of my childhood (neither were fresh peaches – I was too fussy to like much except plain carbs, sausages, apples and ice-cream). But somehow I remember not only eating tinned peaches but loving them, soft like panna cotta and as syrupy as a gulab jamun. Not quite the same as a fresh peach but delicious in a different way

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All about the baby cheeses: how to curate a festive cheeseboard to remember

What should I serve on my Christmas cheeseboard?David, via emailIt will come as no surprise that Mathew Carver, founder of Pick & Cheese, The Cheese Barge and Rind, eats a lot of cheese, so in an effort to keep his festive selection interesting, he usually focuses on a specific area or region: “Last year, for instance, I spent Christmas in Scotland and served only local cheese.” Wales is up later this month. “I’m a creature of habit and tend always to go back to the cheeses I love, so this strategy makes me try new ones,” he explains – plus there’s nothing to stop you slipping in a classic such as comté in there too, because, well, Christmas.Unless you’re going for “the baller move” of just serving one glorious cheese, Bronwen Percival, technical director of Neal’s Yard Dairy, would punt for three or four “handsome wedges, rather than slivers of too many options”. After all, few have “the time or attention for a board that needs a lot of explaining”

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Georgina Hayden’s recipe for pear, sticky ginger and pecan pudding

While our Christmas Day dinner doesn’t deviate too much from tradition, I do experiment with the dessert. My family, bar one sweet-toothed aunt, avoids dried fruit-based offerings, so classic Christmas cakes and puddings are a hard no. Over the years, I have tried variations on yule logs, pavlovas and sherry trifles, but the biggest crowdpleaser is easily sticky toffee pudding (or something along those lines). This year, I’m making this warming, simple but decadent pear, sticky ginger and pecan pudding, which feels festive and fancy, and can happily make an appearance whenever.This can be made the day before and reheated before serving

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How to make nesselrode pudding – recipe | Felicity Cloake's Masterclass

A luxurious iced dessert stuffed full of boozy dried fruit, candied peel and frozen chestnut pureeThis festive, frozen chestnut puree dessert is often credited to the great 19th-century chef Antonin Carême, even though the man himself conceded that this luxurious creation was that of Monsieur Mony, chef to the Russian diplomat Count Nesselrode (albeit, he observed somewhat peevishly, inspired by one of his own chestnut puddings). It was originally served with hot, boozy custard – though I think it’s just enough as it is – and it makes a fabulous Christmas centrepiece,Prep 15 min Soak Overnight Cook 20 min Freeze 2 hr+ Serves 6125g currants, or raisins or sultanas50g good-quality candied peel, finely chopped75ml maraschino, or other sweet alcohol of your choice (see step 2)1 vanilla pod, split, or 1 tsp vanilla extract600ml whipping cream 4 egg yolks 50g caster sugar 45g flaked almonds 125g whole peeled cooked chestnuts, or unsweetened chestnut pureePut the fruit and peel in a bowl. Mony’s recipe is reported to have contained currants and raisins (though other vine fruit, or indeed any chopped dried fruit you prefer, will work), as well as candied citron, the peel of a mild, thick-skinned citrus, which is available online, as are other candied peels that are far nicer than those chewy, greasy nubs sold in supermarkets.Add the alcohol: maraschino, an Italian sour cherry liqueur, is the original choice, but Claire Macdonald uses an orange triple sec, Victorian ice queen Agnes B Marshall brandy and noyaux, an almond-flavoured liqueur made from apricot kernels, and Regula Ysewijn mixes maraschino with dark rum. Madeira, sherry, port, etc, would surely be good, too