The Spin | Beware the quiet man: Ashes folklore is littered with unlikely names stepping up

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Have you heard about Big Pat’s back? You must have by now.The eyes and ears of the cricketing world are zeroed in on a locus of about 10 inches of Pat Cummins’s lumbar region.Hushed whispers about the Australia Test captain’s “stress injury” after his side’s tour to the West Indies in July became a rumbling concern as the weeks passed and there was no reassuring statement from the Cummins camp.Ideally it would have been delivered by the man himself with a megawatt smile, just letting everyone know that he was locked in for a full part in the Ashes series.By contrast, this week a more circumspect Cummins put his chances of playing at Perth in the first Test on 21 November as “probably less likely than likely”.

Things may well change in the next six weeks but if they don’t then it is a tremendous shame for him personally and for the wider cricketing public as the Ashes is shorn, to some degree, of one of the greatest fast bowlers in cricket history,If he does manage to get on the park at some stage then it remains to be seen how quickly he can get back to his best,Cummins’s overall record in Tests already puts him in the conversation as an all-time great – 309 wickets from 71 matches,On average his wickets cost a little more than 22 runs apiece and he gets one every 47 balls: “serious numbers” is believed to be the correct statistical expression,To say England are in a better position to regain the Ashes, or even win a Test in Australia for the first time in 14 years, without having to face Cummins goes without saying.

Or not,As various pundits, journalists, players, former players and social media slingers have made that exact point this week with varying levels of sympathy, a few caveats and something bordering on unfettered glee: zero Test wins in 14 years will do that to some,No bowler gives England’s top order more reason to panic than Cummins,He has 91 wickets against England in 19 matches,No one has dismissed Joe Root more times in Tests.

Who’s likely to replace him? Scott Boland.Well, there’s nothing to fear there then surely? England laid Boland and his redoubtable low-mid-80s seam to waste at home in the 2023 Ashes series.Knocking him off his nagging line and length, Boland went at nearly five runs an over and picked up only two wickets in the couple of matches he played.Root reverse‑ramped Boland for six in the first Test at Edgbaston, a shot that seemed to symbolise England’s new way and contrasted dramatically with how Root and the rest of England’s batters had approached Boland in Australia a couple of years earlier.In the 2021-22 Ashes Boland did for six English batters as the local lad ran amok in the most bashful way imaginable on his Test debut in front of a delirious home crowd at the MCG.

“Build the man a statue!” went the fever-pitched commentary line as Boland ripped England apart and secured the urn for Australia.Boland raised the ball to the crowd like a shy toddler unveiling a blob of Plasticine after a day at nursery.Never has a man looked less like he wanted a fuss, never mind some sort of effigy.This England side won’t let Boland do that to them again, goes one school of thought.Have we learned nothing from history, goes the other.

Beware the quiet man! No, we’re not talking about Iain Duncan Smith though, admittedly, the point still stands, but rather those quiet men of Ashes folklore who have a huge impact on a series,The ones who float under the radar or were barely mentioned before a ball was bowled but who set about altering the course of a series and the destination of the urn,Chris Broad wouldn’t have kept Australian fast bowlers awake at night before the 1986‑87 tour but his three centuries went on to be decisive in winning the Ashes for England,Likewise, the veteran opener Chris Rogers demanded barely any column inches before the back-to-back Ashes in 2013 and 2014 but the Australian left-hander finished as the leading run scorer from the two sides across both series,Ian Bell scored three crucial centuries in the English summer of the 2013 series but his achievements aren’t lauded as much as others seem to be.

There’s no Bell’s Ashes moniker; there was no Triple Threat Bell DVD release, either,Chris Woakes, another of England’s most notably humble foot soldiers, played a vital hand 10 years later with 19 wickets in three Tests and important lower‑order runs to rescue England from 2-0 down,From the taciturn John Cornish White in the 1928-29 series to Richard Ellison in 1985, Paul Reiffel in 1993 and Stuart Clark in 2006-07, the Ashes has seen plenty of star performances from those initially unfeared,Boland may have got some tap last time around in England but his record in Australia is phenomenal – 49 wickets at 12,63.

The last time he played a Test in Sydney he took 10 wickets against India.Australia will miss Cummins whenever he doesn’t play, but in Boland they have a quiet man who knows how to make the ball sing in Australia.Yes he has big shoes to fill, but more dangerously than that – a point to prove.
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Cauliflower risotto and sausages with squash and beans: Sophie Wyburd’s recipes for autumn warmers

I am the scrooge who relishes the end of summer, and who welcomes the darker evenings with open arms. After patiently waiting for tomatoes and aubergines to be done with their performance, autumn brings its own bounty of vegetables back into play, with squash, cauliflower and dark, leafy greens being some of my favourites. They’re ideal for loading into comforting dishes to hunker down with, and lend even the most indulgent meals a bit of goodness.Prep 10 min Cook 1 hr 10 min Serves 47 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped15g rosemary, finely chopped8 good-quality pork sausages 600g butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into 3cm chunks 400ml chicken stock 2 560g jars of butter beans 70g sourdough breadcrumbs Salt and black pepper 150g cavolo nero 40g parmesan Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus the juice of half, and optional lemon wedges to serveOver a medium flame, heat three tablespoons of the oil in a large, shallow casserole dish for which you have a lid. Tip in the chopped onion and cook, stirring, for 15 minutes, until softened

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How to make cinnamon buns – recipe | Felicity Cloake's Masterclass

There are few joys quite like a sticky bun. As soft and sweet as an edible pillow, they’re a lovely thing to sink into with a cup of coffee and, though they look impressive, they’re also unexpectedly easy to make at home. This Scandinavian version is cinnamon flavoured, but feel free to change the seasoning to suit your palate.Prep 30 min Rest 1 hr+Cook 25 min Makes 71 tsp ground cardamom seeds (from about 25 pods; see step 1)300ml whole milk 50g butter, roughly cubed425g plain flour 60g caster sugar ¼ tsp fine salt 7g fast-action/instant yeast 1 egg Oil, for greasingFor the filling75g butter, softened50g dark brown sugar 2 tsp cinnamon ½ tsp saltTo finish1 egg, lightly beaten Demerara or granulated sugarGround cardamom is fairly easy to find these days, but if you don’t mind a bit of fiddly work, you should get a teaspoon or so of powder from the ground seeds of about 25 pods. Alternatively, for a milder flavour, use the seeds whole and strain them out of the milk later

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Punk Royale, London W1: ‘Someone shoved mystery slop in my mouth’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

Punk Royale, from Stockholm, has landed in London promising, or rather threatening, that their rowdy, immersive, 20-course fine-dining experience will destroy all puny British perceptions of posh food. It’s a huge claim from these Swedish punks. Indeed, nearly 50 years after the UK invented punk, with the Sex Pistols effing and jeffing on live TV and provoking a national meltdown, here we have some folk with mullets and Roxette CDs slopping “bumps” of caviar on to my hand shortly after beckoning me into a shoddily decorated, fusty-smelling dining room in Mayfair. It’s all a bit student house and needs a good visit from Mr Sheen. That bump, one supposes, is a playful twist on taking cocaine at a grotty afterparty

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Enjoying my meat that’s low on miles | Letter

I’m glad that the impact of ultra‑processed food on the climate is being investigated. Not only is it bad for our health but it also requires ingredients to be transported around the world (The hidden cost of ultra-processed foods on the environment: ‘The whole industry should pay’, theguardian.com, 8 October).Meat and dairy are often singled out as foods detrimental to the environment. While it’s laudable to encourage people to reduce their intake of animal-based foods and eat more vegetables, nuts and grains, many of these have also to be transported great distances and so contribute to increased CO2 levels

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‘It’s really good for the staff’: how restaurants adapt to customers drinking less

Alcohol is an important source of revenue for many restaurants. With consumption on the decline, venues could be left in a precarious positionGet our weekend culture and lifestyle emailUntil relatively recently, boozing on was considered a vital part of dining out. These days, less so. Australian drinking habits are changing. We’re embracing “damp drinking” (less volume overall), “zebra striping” (subbing in non-alcoholic drinks every other round) and being “99% sober” (a mostly dry lifestyle with the occasional exception)

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Helen Goh’s recipe for pumpkin cheesecake with maple pecan brittle | The sweet spot

Silky, spiced and just sweet enough, this pumpkin cheesecake is a celebration of autumnal comfort. I’m not a fan of tinned pumpkin – it’s watery and flat-tasting – so I’ve taken the extra step of roasting some butternut or Kent squash; the oven’s heat coaxes out its natural sweetness while evaporating excess moisture, resulting in a smooth, flavourful puree that gives the cheesecake real depth. The maple pecan brittle provides the final flourish: golden, nutty and with just the right amount of crunch to offset the cheesecake’s creamy softness.To make 200g pumpkin puree, chop 350-400g peeled, deseeded pumpkin into chunks, then roast, loosely covered, at 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 until soft but not browned. Puree in a high-speed blender