Sublime Starc is last man standing after Australia’s mystifying call to leave out Lyon | Geoff Lemon

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In the end it was Mitchell Starc saving the day in the second Ashes Test as he did the first.In a series supposed to be defined by Australia’s fast-bowling Big Three, he has done the work as the sole member to make the starting line.With one English wicket left to fall and his tally on six for 46, he was on the brink of the remarkable feat of recording career-best figures for the fourth time in less than 12 months.Joe Root and Jofra Archer swung a few runs away to void that statistical note, but it was still another day (and night) of heavy lifting for the man who so far in this series has carried Australia’s burden.Having passed Harbhajan Singh’s 417 Test wickets in the process Starc, who ended day one with figures of six for 71, is now in the top 15 wicket-takers on the Test all-time list, but the more significant milestone from the overtaking lane was the 414 of Wasim Akram, making Starc the most prolific left-arm quick of all.

Until now Wasim has been uncontested as the greatest of his ilk, but with time yet ahead of Starc, the Australian can now make an argument of it.He may average three more runs per wicket, but has needed eight fewer deliveries to take each one, and his recent vintage years have both of those numbers moving in the right direction.Starc’s efforts stemmed the damage but didn’t entirely avoid it, with England ending the day on a score of 325 for nine that could be competitive even without addition if they get their other suit right.As in Perth, Australia’s backup quicks were largely ineffective.Scott Boland and new inclusion Micahel Neser bowled some impressive spells early, but only got one wicket each to show for it.

Boland got belted in his later spell, while Cameron Green and Brendan Doggett went at five an over throughout.So while Starc has been zooming past milestones, spare a thought for Nathan Lyon, who started the summer needing two wickets to pass Glenn McGrath’s 563, and still does.Barely needed in Perth in the haste of England’s collapses, he has now been left on the sidelines of this match for no discernible reason.It is difficult to understand how professional decision-makers can talk themselves into choosing five fast bowlers for nearly any situation.Going to the cricket without a spinner is like going to the cricket without a box: you might not need it, but you’ll be bloody sorry if it turns out you did.

There are often assessments that a pitch or a ball or a format will suit fast bowling.That doesn’t mean that a team needs every bowler to be of one type and none to be of the other.Variety can prove an effective weapon on any surface.When playing an England team that treats six-hitting against spin as a requirement of religious faith, an opponent should welcome that on a ground where each hit needs to travel 80 metres.The first few might, but the sequence cannot hold.

If a pitch will be helpful for quicks, it stands to reason that you’d need fewer of them, not more,If a pitch instead requires toil, that is a spinner’s job,In the end, this wasn’t a fast-bowling paradise,There was bounce: some lovely elevation with the new ball, where even Neser’s pace in the low 130s had Alex Carey’s gloves up at clavicle height,A little swing, particularly early.

Moments of lateral movement, when Starc had the new ball wobbling like a drunk being ordered to walk a highway line.But when England players applied themselves, in contrast to the self-destruction of half of their top six, there were runs to be had.There were tough overs to be bowled.And with Starc being held back for the dusk session after his early burst of two wickets in two overs, there was no variety in the right-arm seam attack that bedded Joe Root beautifully into what became his unbeaten hundred, not to mention keeping Australia at an appalling 74 overs in the day, denying themselves the option of a new ball to end the evening session.Sign up to Australia SportGet a daily roundup of the latest sports news, features and comment from our Australian sports deskafter newsletter promotionLyon has played all three pink-ball matches in Brisbane before this one.

He started with 40 overs in a match, then 25, then 50.Safe to say he has not been found surplus to requirements.Doggett is promising but had played one Test and taken five wickets, where Lyon can add two zeroes to each of those tallies.Neser had played two Tests for seven wickets.No conditions could be extreme enough to bridge that gap.

Had Lyon played, England might have been all out for less, or they might have made hundreds more,Who knows? The point is that the logic is faulty, leaving out someone who has consistently been a performer in pink-ball cricket, let alone across the rest of a vast career,In the end, the fact that Australia came through the day in reasonable shape is down to Starc once again filling in for a full attack, not to the selections that made up the rest of it,
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The great Christmas taste test: I tried seven fast food offerings. Which will make me feel festive?

From a cranberry katsu curry to a dozen thickly glazed doughnuts, the biggest chains are getting Christmassy. I found out which seasonal meals will leave you carolling and carousing – and which will leave you coldBy now, most major fast food outlets will have launched their festive special. There is no established framework for what “festive” means, and no recognised metrics of Christmassyness. It could be indicated by a lurid green/angry red colour in a place you’re not expecting it (McDonald’s Grumble Pie, I’m looking at you); or an existing thing, made into a more seasonal shape, or the introduction of a quintessential Christmas ingredient, such as a brussels sprout (though seriously, food giants, get over yourself if you think it’s cinnamon – this is an autumn spice).I am not here to critique the essentials of fast food (I love it)

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Party starters: Jacob Kenedy’s Italian Christmas canapes – recipes

Three Italian light bites to get you started on the big day: pinzimonio crudites, chilled prawns with boozy mayo, and a delicate frittata that you can stud with artichoke, radicchio or celeryI am evolving as a host, and coming to realise that those rich dishes that crown our festive tables shine brightest when surrounded by contrasting and lighter bites – before, around and after, rather than just on the day itself. I do enjoy angels and devils on horseback, devilled eggs, little sausages wrapped in bacon, mince tarts crowned with goose liver, fried breads and cheesy pizzette, buffalo wings, paté en croute, crab beignets, oysters Rockefeller, shrimp tostadas and rich tamales, but, for the most part, I save these for the parties earlier in December. For Christmas day itself, I start with lighter bites, as better preparation for the rich meal ahead. A trio of dainty, grazing canapes served alongside sparkling Alta Langa …My grandmother, Ginny, knew how to entertain. She would spike her mayonnaise with brandy, and so do I – at home and at my restaurant Plaquemine Lock

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Australian supermarket sorbet taste test: is this the most enjoyable taste test yet?

After blind-tasting more than a dozen supermarket sorbets, Nicholas Jordan and friends award a rare nine out of 10 score to a magical iced confectionIf you value our independent journalism, we hope you’ll consider supporting us todayGet our weekend culture and lifestyle emailThe only bad sorbet I’ve ever had was made by me. If it wasn’t for that syrupy pineapple-flavoured stack of ice shards, I don’t think I’d be able to imagine the characteristics. What’s a bad version of winning the lottery? You’d only know when it happens.To make a bad sorbet you need to be inept or cheap. But supermarkets distribute the cheapest foods on earth and usually the range in quality is hellish to “huh, pretty good”

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Christmas main course made easy: Max Rocha’s braised turkey legs with colcannon – recipes

Roast turkey breast is often dry and overcooked, so why not give everyone a leg instead and serve it with a traditional Irish potato-and-cabbage side?We often braise chicken and rabbit legs at Cafe Cecilia, because all the preparation and cooking can be done ahead of time, and it’s then just about heating them gently to serve. For Christmas, I often employ much the same process for turkey legs – it’s a lovely way to eat them. Serve with colcannon, although basmati rice, boiled new potatoes or roast carrots would also go great.This can easily be scaled up to feed more people – you’ll just need a larger pan.Prep 20 min Cook 1 hr 30 min Serves 2Sunflower oil Salt and black pepper 2 bone-in turkey legs 1 tbsp butter 5 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped2 shallots, peeled and halved 5 slices streaky bacon, diced8 sage leaves 70ml white wine60-100ml chicken stock ½ tbsp dijon mustard1 tbsp creme fraicheFor the colcannon500g large floury potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

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Christmas mains: Georgina Hayden’s pan-fried monkfish in a herby champagne butter – recipe

A fishy festive centrepiece that’s ready in next to no time but still has pizzazzWhile I tend to stick pretty close to tradition when it comes to my Christmas Day side offerings, I can’t remember the last time I cooked a turkey or goose as the showstopper. You see, my family is mostly made up of pescatarians, so anything larger than a chicken or cockerel (my personal favourite) for the meat eaters is just excessive. So, alongside a lovingly cooked smaller bird, I also make something fishy – hopefully something with a bit of star-quality, but not too shouty. A dish that will be delicious, fancy, but stress-free all at the same time. These pan-fried monkfish fillets are this year’s solution

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How to make coquilles St-Jacques – recipe | Felicity Cloake's Masterclass

’Tis the season for food that makes everyone feel a little bit loved and special; for showstoppers – but preferably the kind that don’t stop the show for too long, given how much else is likely to be going on. This French classic, which can be made a day ahead, if necessary, and/or bulked out with other seafood, is a luxurious light starter or fancy canapé.Prep 20 min Cook 15 min Makes 66 large sustainably-sourced scallops (diver-caught, ideally), cleaned and on the shell, or frozen and defrosted scallops (or see method)2 tbsp butter 2 banana shallots, or 4 round ones150ml white wine (optional; see method)100ml double creamFor the topping1 small garlic clove 25g parsley 2 tbsp butter 70g dried breadcrumbsIf you’d like to keep costs down, go for frozen scallops, or for smaller queen scallops (farmed or hand-dived ones tend to be the most sustainable), or mix scallops with other seafood such as small shelled clams and prawns, etc, and cook and serve them in gratin dishes. Store live scallops in the fridge round-side down. For a more substantial dish, add another chopped scallop, or other seafood, per person