Red lentils, and lamb and barley: Ilhan Mohamed Abdi’s soup recipes for Iftar
There is nothing quite like that first bite after a long day of fasting.It’s quiet, intentional and deeply comforting.The stillness just before sunset gives way to movement – the table being laid, the clinking of glasses, the pause as everyone waits for the call to prayer.Then, with a date in hand and water on the tongue, the fast is broken.That moment never loses its meaning, no matter how many times you experience it.
Iftar doesn’t begin with a feast, but with small, simple things, such as these two soups.Shurbad exists across many cultures, especially in east Africa, the Middle East and north Africa.The word comes from the Arabic shariba, meaning “to drink”, and it refers to something light and warming.This is often served at the start of a meal and, while the ingredients and methods vary across the different regions, the feeling is the same.This is a dish that many, myself included, make only during Ramadan, because it feels tied to the rhythm of the month.
This version is gently spiced and comforting; if you prefer, use chicken instead of the lamb.The soup freezes well, too, so you can make it weeks in advance.Prep 10 min Cook 2 hr 45 min Serves 8-10500g lamb shoulder on the bone, diced2 vegetable stock pots 400g tin finely chopped tomatoes 180g pearl barley4 tbsp rolled oats ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground coriander ½ tsp curry powder 5 tbsp olive oil, or sunflower oil ½ large brown onion, peeled and chopped4 garlic cloves, peeled1 small bunch fresh corianderLemon juice or apple cider vinegar, to serve (optional)In a large deep pot, combine the lamb and stock pots with 2½ litres of cold water.Put the pot on a medium-high heat, bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered for about an hour and a half, until the meat is tender.Lift out the meat with a slotted spoon, then shred it into small pieces; discard the bones.
Return the shredded meat to the pot and stir in the chopped tomatoes and barley.Cook uncovered for another 45 minutes on a medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, then stir in the oats, cumin, ground coriander and curry powder.Cook for 20 minutes, then take off the heat.In a separate saucepan, heat the oil on a medium heat.Add the onion and fry, stirring, until browned.
Put the garlic cloves and fresh coriander in a mortar, then grind to a paste,Stir this into the fried onion and cook for another minute,Carefully pour the hot onion and oil mixture into the soup, then stir to combine and simmer for a further 10 minutes,This is best served hot with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice or a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar on each portion,The soup can be kept in the freezer for up to three months.
To serve, just defrost, warm through and finish with a quick herb oil,Don’t forget the vinegar or a squeeze of lemon to bring it all together,This lentil soup, known simply as addas, is made from the most basic pantry ingredients, but somehow always tastes like more than the sum of its parts,I’ve been eating it since I was little, and it was one of the first meals I weaned my daughter with once we introduced spices,It was only recently that a good friend from Algeria introduced me to the addition of ras el hanout, the north African spice blend.
The soup thickens beautifully by the next day, almost like a soft dal, so I’ll often serve that over rice; otherwise, I’ll gently loosen it on the stovetop with a splash of water and enjoy it as soup again.Prep 10 min Cook 55 min Serves 4-62-3 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped4-5 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed1 large carrot, peeled and finely chopped300g red split lentils, rinsed1 heaped tbsp vegetable bouillon powder1⅓ tbsp ground cumin⅓ tbsp ras el hanout1 tsp salt 400ml coconut milk1 large handful chopped coriander, plus extra to garnishLemon slices, to serveHeat the olive oil in a large saucepan, then add the onion and saute for three to four minutes, until translucent.Add the garlic, leave it to soften slightly, then add the carrot.Stir everything together and saute for a minute or two.Add the rinsed lentils and stir well – the mixture might clump, but keep stirring.
Add the bouillon powder, cumin, ras el hanout and salt, and cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally, for 30 seconds.Add the coconut milk, 1.3 litres of cold water and the fresh coriander, and adjust the salt to taste.Cover the pan, bring to a simmer and cook on a medium-low heat for 20 minutes.Half-blend the mixture with a stick blender to give it a creamy texture while keeping some chunks intact.
If need be, add more water, and remember to check the salt.Simmer for another 15 minutes, then serve hot garnished with extra coriander and the lemon slices.These recipes are edited extracts from The Ramadan Kitchen: Nourishing Recipes from East to Feast, by Ilhan Mohamed Abdi, published by Pavilion Books at £26.To order a copy for £23.40, visit guardianbookshop.
com
Maro Itoje restored as England captain for Calcutta Cup trip to Scotland
Maro Itoje has been restored to the England captaincy for Saturday’s Calcutta Cup clash against Scotland while Luke Cowan-Dickie starts at hooker with Steve Borthwick otherwise keeping faith with the side who thrashed Wales last week.Fin Smith replaces namesake Marcus in the No23 jersey but that, Itoje’s expected return to the starting lineup and the decision to utilise Jamie George’s experience from the bench, aside, Borthwick has challenged the majority of his players to repeat the trick at Murrayfield.Ollie Lawrence was on track to be fit for Saturday’s match but Borthwick is determined to persevere with Tommy Freeman at outside centre. Henry Arundell, who scored a hat-trick against Wales, can expect a barrage of high balls coming his way at Murrayfield but Borthwick has resisted the temptation to tinker, again selecting the Bath flyer on the left wing. Tom Roebuck, who was a late call-up to replace the injured Immanuel Feyi-Waboso against Wales, continues on the right
US figure skater Amber Glenn resolves Winter Olympics music dispute with Canadian artist
The US figure skater Amber Glenn said Tuesday that she has resolved copyright concerns with the Canadian recording artist Seb McKinnon after the musician expressed surprise that one of his songs appeared in her Olympic free skate program, closing a brief dispute that underscored the growing complexity of music rights in figure skating.McKinnon, who releases music under the name CLANN, posted on social media after Glenn performed to his track The Return during the Olympic team event, questioning whether the music had been cleared. He later congratulated Glenn on her team gold medal, and both sides have since described the episode as a misunderstanding rather than a conflict.“The issue of music rights can be complex and confusing, and it seems like there was a hiccup somewhere in that process,” Glenn said in a statement. “I’m glad we were able to clear things up and I’m excited about the possibility of collaborating with Seb moving forward
Winter Olympics officials find fix for broken medals and promise repairs
After days of embarrassing stories about Winter Olympic medals cracking, snapping, and even breaking in two after falling in the snow, organisers say they have finally fixed the problem.Officials have also promised to repair any of the medals that were awarded in the opening three days of competition in Milano Cortina, after identifying on Monday that the issue stemmed from the medal’s cord, which is fitted with a breakaway mechanism required by law.The system is designed to release automatically if pulled with force, preventing the wearer from being choked. However it led to problems that began on Saturday when the American downhill skiing champion Breezy Johnson revealed that her gold medal had fallen off her ribbon as she jumped in celebration.Speaking at the daily Milano Cortina briefing, spokesman Luca Cassasa said: “Following reports of issues affecting a small number of medals, the organising committee immediately reviewed the matter, working closely with the State Mint, which produced the medals
Ukrainian accuses IOC of ‘betrayal’ for banning helmet with images of dead athletes
The Ukrainian skeleton racer Vladyslav Heraskevych has accused the International Olympic Committee of “betrayal” after it banned his racing helmet, which showed images of athletes and his friends that were killed following Russia’s invasion, from the Winter Olympics.On Tuesday, Ukraine launched an appeal against the decision, arguing that Heraskevych should be allowed to use his “helmet of memory’, showing the weightlifter Alina Peregudova, boxer Pavlo Ishchenko, ice hockey player Oleksiy Loginov at the Winter Olympics.However the appeal was quickly rejected by the IOC, which said it violated its rules regarding political expression under Rule 50.2 of its Olympic charter. But the IOC spokesperson Mark Adams said that they would make an exception by allowing Heraskevych to wear a black armband in competition
Jos Buttler insists ‘dressing room knows the truth’ about McCullum’s qualities
Brendon McCullum’s shades-on, feet-up, perpetually chilled persona as England coach, which has led to him being criticised for creating an unhealthily relaxed team culture, is carefully cultivated but entirely false, according to the former white-ball captain Jos Buttler. Buttler said that McCullum is actually “as sharp a coach as I’ve ever worked with”, and that “everyone in the dressing room knows the truth”.While McCullum has been sceptical about the overuse of data in cricket he has recently adopted the use of walkie-talkies to relay information from the team’s analysts to their support staff and on to the pitch during matches, and Buttler insisted he has always been more involved in the action than it appears.“That’s obviously the energy he wants to have, to allow guys to feel less pressure in a game that has a lot of pressure,” Buttler said. “So that image is important to him
The Breakdown | Test rugby coaches have a shelf life and Townsend must know he’s near the end
The witty Anglo-American author Ashleigh Brilliant passed away last September at the age of 91, but his best lines are timeless. Beleaguered sports coaches worldwide will all recognise one of his characteristically pithy observations: “I try to take one day at a time – but sometimes several days attack me at once.” To be responsible for an under-pressure national side must induce a similar feeling.So what do you do when coaching life starts serving you lemons? After a while there are only two options: try to ride it out, or accept it might be wiser for someone else to have a go. It can be a delicate judgment, often shaped by non-sporting considerations
Barclays CEO ‘shocked’ by Epstein revelations as bank deals with Staley fallout
UK backs biggest English onshore windfarm in a decade among 190 green energy projects
Beats Powerbeats Fit review: Apple’s compact workout earbuds revamped
EU threatens to act over Meta blocking rival AI chatbots from WhatsApp
Norwegian biathlete wins Winter Olympics bronze and then tells TV interview of affair
Team GB’s Winter Olympics medal wait goes on after agonising curling defeat