Why bag-in-box wines are here to stay | Hannah Crosbie on drinks

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Slap the bag? The wheel of goon? Or, perhaps, goon of fortune? If any of those collections of words mean anything to you (keep your double entendres to yourself, please), you may have fuzzy yet painful memories of bag-in-box wine.The cheapness and the format – not to mention the sheer volume you can buy it for – makes bag-in-box ripe for drinking games.The Guardian’s journalism is independent.We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link.Learn more.

These fond (?) memories might result in an assumption that all bag-in-box wine is of a lesser quality, something designed for inexpensive and quick intoxication, rather than tasteful enjoyment,But interest in bag-in-box is on the rise, with the UK market expected to rise to more than £300m by 2030 – almost double what it was in 2021,Why the spike in interest? My best guess is that people are drinking less and, once opened, your average bag-in-box will stay fresh for about six whole weeks,Many of us are (or have recently become) the type of drinker who savours a single glass of wine every so often after work, but never drink enough in the week to finish an entire bottle, so the rest is often given as a little treat to the sink,The sorts of wines you’re likely to find in bags are what you’d expect: bright, fresh, relatively simple stuff that’s designed to be drunk within weeks, not years.

And although a boxed wine will last longer once it’s open than wine in a bottle, the plastic used in production is permeable, meaning the wine will gradually spoil due to contact with oxygen, even if it remains unopened.It’s smart buying decisions that determine what wines make it into my bags.My pal Freddy Bulmer is a buyer at the Wine Society, a place with a bag-in-box offering that impresses me with each and every new addition, so I asked him why they’re putting so much stock in the category.“One thing that we really care about in the wine industry is the sustainability angle.Bag-in-box can be a solution to a lot of those industry concerns.

For example, shipping over a huge, 24,000-litre flexitank full of wine that can then be put into bags in the UK is far more sustainable than sending thousands of individual glass bottles around the world.”Large retailers such as the Wine Society and our major supermarkets have embraced the format to meet the needs of the modern drinker, but there are some brands that have been founded on selling solely bag-in-box, which if nothing else is an expression of confidence in the future of the category.One such business is Bobo Wines, which sells beautifully designed, handwritten boxes (I’m a sucker for a good bit of packaging design) that look as if they’ve been plucked straight out of the cellar by Bobo’s buyer, the sommelier, writer and educator Amber Gardner.My friends, orange wine in a bag is now officially A Thing.Whatever next?The Society’s white burgundy 2024 £34 (2¼ litres) The Wine Society, 12.

5%.Great for easy entertaining, and everything you want from a simple white burgundy: bright and brimming with apples.La Vieille Ferme rosé £15.75 (1½ litre) Morrisons, 12.5%.

The internet’s favourite wine comes in a box now.Crowdpleasing rosé from Famille Perrin.Famille Fabre Corbières orange 2024 £49 (2¼ litres) Bobo Wines, 13%.Aromatic, savoury, orange … and three bottles of the stuff.Waitrose Blueprint Romanian pinot noir £14 (1½ litre) Waitrose, 12.

5%.Two bottles-worth of fresh, fruity pinot noir from an under-rated winemaking country.
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