Maunika Gowardhan’s recipes for Indian pea curries
The sweetness of fresh green peas works so well with Indian curries and spices, and June is the month to make the most of them, because they’re now at their peak.Even the empty pods have so much flavour and sweetness, which makes them perfect for a quick salad on the side (toss thinly sliced raw, blanched or even griddled pods with chopped tomato, sliced onion and coriander, drizzle over some fresh mint raita and sprinkle with chaat masala).Blanch the fresh peas without any seasoning before you make the curry, then add them to the simmering gravy near the end.You can swap them for frozen peas, too, if you like.AKA Maharashtrian ambat vatana rassa, this is a family recipe from our home in Mumbai.
Traditionally, we use kokum, or dried wild mangosteen, to impart a sour, tangy flavour and a hint of colour, but you could use tamarind instead – the curry should be tart and tangy, so add to taste and according to the quality of your tamarind paste (the one I use is a pretty weak one, so I needed two tablespoons),We usually serve this with a buttery spiced ghee rice,Prep 10 minSoak 20 min Cook20 minServes 4300g podded fresh green peas, or frozen peas, defrosted 2 tbsp vegetable oil 12 fresh curry leaves½ tsp ground turmeric 350g boiled potatoes, cut into chunks5 kokum petals, soaked in 50ml warm water for 20 min, or 2 tbsp tamarind paste, or to taste(see recipe introduction)Salt, to tasteCooked rice, to serveFor the coconut paste3 dried kashmiri red chillies 1 tbsp coriander seeds 1 tsp black peppercorns 120g grated fresh coconutCook the fresh green peas in boiling water for two to three minutes, then drain and refresh; if you’re using frozen peas, there’s no need to cook them first, because they’ll get cooked directly in the curry sauce,Now for the paste,Soak the red chillies in 100ml warm water for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a blender, grind the coriander seeds and peppercorns to a rough powder.Add the soaked chillies, their soaking liquid and the coconut to the blender and blitz to a smooth paste.Put the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat.When it’s hot, add the curry leaves and coconut paste, and fry, stirring, for two minutes.Stir in the ground turmeric, fry for a minute, then pour in 250ml cold water, bring to a simmer and cook for a minute.
Turn down the heat, add the peas, the cooked potatoes, the kokum and its soaking liquid.Season with salt to taste, simmer for a final two minutes, then serve warm with rice.Or matar ka nimona, which hails from Benares in northern Uttar Pradesh.This soupy curry is usually served with rice or breads.Prep 15 minCook 45 minServes 4350g podded fresh green peas, or frozen peas, defrosted3 garlic cloves, peeled5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled1 green birds’ eye chilli 5 tbsp ghee 200g potatoes, peeled and diced1 tsp cumin seeds 2 bay leaves 100g finely chopped white onion 1 tbsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground turmeric 120g ripe tomatoes, finely choppedSalt, to taste½ tsp garam masala, to finishA little fresh coriander, roughly chopped, to garnishRoti or rice, to serveCook the fresh green peas, if using, in boiling water for two to three minutes, then drain.
Put half the cooked peas (or half the defrosted frozen peas) in a blender, pulse to a coarse paste, then scrape into a bowl and add the remaining whole peas.Tip the garlic, ginger, green chilli and a splash of water into the blender, then blitz to a smooth paste.Put two tablespoons of the ghee in a large saucepan on a medium heat.Add the potatoes and fry, stirring often so they don’t catch and burn, for 12 to 14 minutes, until evenly coloured all over and cooked through.Drain the potatoes, then put them on a large plate or tray lined with kitchen paper.
Melt the remaining three tablespoons of ghee in the same pan on a medium heat, then add the cumin seeds and bay leaves.When they start to sizzle, add the onion and fry, stirring often, for eight or nine minutes, until it starts to soften without taking on any colour.Add the garlic, ginger and chilli paste, fry for a minute, then stir in the ground coriander and turmeric.Add the chopped tomatoes, then fry, stirring, for six minutes, until they soften and the sauce thickens.Add all the green peas, stir for a minute more, then add the fried potatoes and 200ml water.
Bring to a simmer, cook for a minute or so (the pea paste will help thicken the sauce), then add salt to taste.Stir in the garam masala, then turn off the heat and leave to stand for a couple of minutes.Garnish with coriander and serve with roti or rice.Maunika Gowardhan is a cook and food writer.Her most recent book, Tandoori Home Cooking: Over 70 Classic Indian Tandoori Recipes to Cook at Home, is published by Hardie Grant at £25.
To order a copy for £22.50, go to guardianbookshop.com
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