Fish, cheese or chicken? Ravinder Bhogal’s recipes for warming winter pies

A picture


When the temperature takes a nosedive, few things compete with a just-baked pie.Don’t be daunted by social media images of perfect, artistic ones; a pie will taste just as good whether it’s rustically homespun or exactingly decorated and carved.Ultimately, what is more important is the integrity of the ingredients (both the casing and the filling).As pastry or potatoes are such a large part of the equation, invest in the best, and make sure puff pastry is all butter and filo is generously lubricated with melted butter.And, if you’re serving your pie with mash, you want it lump-free, properly seasoned and enriched with butter and cream.

This is packed to the brim with ingredients to make you well: anti-inflammatory ginger, turmeric and nuts, warming spices and cranberries, which are a source of antioxidants and vitamin C.Prep 15 min Cook 2 hr, plus cooling Serves 62 tbsp ghee 2 onions, peeled and finely sliced4 fat garlic cloves, peeled and crushed1 thumb-sized piece ginger, peeled and finely grated1 thumb-sized piece fresh turmeric, peeled and finely grated or 1 tsp ground turmeric1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp allspice 1 tsp cinnamonNutmeg 8 bone-in chicken thighs, skinned400ml chicken stock, or chicken bone brothSea salt and black pepper 100g walnuts or almonds, roughly chopped50g dried cranberriesZest and juice of 1 lemon 3 eggs, beaten1 small bunch coriander, finely chopped1 small bunch tarragon, finely chopped75g butter ½ tsp ground turmeric6 filo pastry sheetsMelt the ghee in a casserole dish or large frying pan over a low heat, then fry the onions slowly for 10-15 minutes, until caramelised.Add the garlic, ginger and fresh turmeric, fry for two minutes, until fragrant, then add the ground spices and a good grating of nutmeg – if you are using ground turmeric, add it now.Add the chicken, stir to coat in the onions and spices for two minutes, then pour in the stock and season.Bring to a simmer, then cook, partially covered, for 30 minutes.

Lift the chicken out of the pan and leave to cool.Bring the stock back to a boil, then reduce for eight minutes, until slightly thickened; leave to cool for 15 minutes.Stir in the nuts, cranberries, lemon juice and zest, followed by the eggs, to make a rich sauce.When the chicken is cool enough to handle, pull out and discard the bones from the thighs, shred the meat and stir it through the sauce.Stir in the coriander and tarragon and leave to cool completely (I often make the filling the day before).

Once the filling is completely cool, melt the butter and turmeric in a pan and heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6.Brush a 23cm springform cake tin with the melted butter, then brush one sheet of filo with melted butter, lay it butter side up over the tin and push it into the tin to line it, leaving an overhang.Repeat with four more filo sheets, buttering and layering them at different angles so the whole cake tin is well lined.Spoon the filling into the pastry lined tin, lay over the final sheet of buttered filo to cover the surface, then fold over the overhanging filo to enclose the filling.Brush with the remaining butter, then bake for 30 minutes, until golden and crisp.

Remove and leave to stand and rest for 15 minutes, then remove the pie from its tin and serve.A fish pie with a south Indian lilt that will transport you to sunnier climes even when skies are grey.Prep 20 min Cook 1 hr 30 min Serves 6200g spinach 2 tbsp coconut oil 1 tsp brown mustard seeds 1 star anise ½ tsp asafoetida (hing) 15 fresh curry leaves ½ tsp cumin ¼ tsp ground cloves 1 red onion, peeled and very thinly sliced into crescentsSea salt, to taste2cm piece ginger, peeled and cut into julienne strips1 fresh long red chillies, sliced seeds and all1 tsp turmeric 400ml coconut cream2 tbsp tamarind paste 1 tbsp light brown sugarJuice of 1 lemon1 handful coriander, finely chopped450g cod, haddock or other white fish fillets, skinned and pin-boned 200g peeled raw prawns2 hard-boiled eggs, shelled and quarteredFor the topping40ml whole milk 40ml double cream1 garlic clove, peeled and bruised½ tsp black peppercorns1 small onion, peeled and studded with 4 cloves1 bay leaf1 tsp ground turmeric 750g floury potatoes, peeled and diced75g butter 2 egg yolksFirst make the topping.Put the milk and cream in a small saucepan and drop in the garlic, peppercorns, clove-studded onion, bay leaf and turmeric.Slowly bring to a simmer, then turn off the heat and leave to infuse while you heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6 and get on with the potatoes.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil, add the potatoes and cook until tender.Meanwhile, steam the spinach for the filling in a colander above the pan of potatoes until wilted, leave to cool slightly, then squeeze out any excess moisture and chop roughly.Drain and mash the potatoes until smooth, then beat in the butter and egg yolks.Strain the infused milk and cream, discarding the solids, then slowly pour the milk mix into the mash and stir to combine thoroughly.For the filling, heat the coconut oil in a frying pan on a high heat.

Scatter in the mustard seeds and star anise and, as soon as the mustard seeds pop, add the asafoetida and curry leaves, followed by the cumin seeds and cloves,Turn down the heat, add the onions and some sea salt, and saute until pale and translucent,Add the ginger, chillies and turmeric and fry briefly until fragrant,Add the coconut cream, tamarind and sugar, simmer for eight minutes, then take off the heat and finish with the lemon juice and coriander,Put the spinach, fish, prawns and boiled egg quarters in a pie dish and pour the coconut sauce all over them.

Top with the mash, then bake for 30 minutes, until bubbling and golden on top.Serve at once.The Guardian aims to publish recipes for sustainable fish.Check ratings in your region: UK; Australia; US.The iron-rich mixture of greens and cheese is blanketed in filo pastry that crisps up beautifully.

Use any greens you like – chard or turnip tops work beautifully.Prep 10 min Cook 1 hr, plus cooling Serves 6320g puff pastry sheet1 egg, beaten, for the egg wash1 tsp sesame seeds, to sprinkle½ tsp fennel seeds, to sprinkleFor the filling 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, peeled and finely sliced3 garlic cloves, peeled and very finely crushed200g kale, tough ribs removed and discarded, leaves roughly chopped200g spinach 250g broccoli, cut into florets, boiled until tender and roughly chopped4 eggs 60g pine nuts 60g currants, golden raisins or barberries 250g feta 250g ricottaZest and juice of 2 lemons 150g soured cream1 handful each of dill and parsley, roughly chopped1 good grating of nutmeg Sea salt and freshly ground black pepperHeat the olive oil in a large pan and saute the onion until sweet and caramelised.Add the garlic and, once that’s smelling fragrant, add the kale and cook until it’s softened.Add the spinach, cook until that’s well wilted, then take off the heat and leave to cool.Transfer the cooled greens to a large bowl and add the chopped broccoli, eggs, pine nuts, currants, feta, ricotta, lemon zest and juice, soured cream, parsley and nutmeg.

Season with salt and pepper, then mix thoroughly to combine,Pour the filling into a deep pie dish – I use a 34cm baking dish,Lay the pastry over the top to cover, then press gently all around the edges to seal,Brush with egg wash then freeze for 15 minutes,Meanwhile, heat the oven to 180 C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4.

Scatter the top of the pie with sesame seeds, fennel seeds and some flaky sea salt, then bake for 30 minutes, until golden and puffed.Serve with a light, leafy salad.
cultureSee all
A picture

David Nicholls to adapt The Secret Diary of Adrian Mole Aged 13¾ for BBC

A writing team led by the One Day author, David Nicholls, and that includes Caitlin Moran is bringing Sue Townsend’s The Secret Diary of Adrian Mole Aged 13¾ to the small screen in a 10-part BBC One adaptation of the classic tale of teenage life in British suburbia.Nicholls, who described the book as “a classic piece of comic writing and an incredible piece of ventriloquism on Sue Townsend’s part”, will adapt the book that produced one of the best-known literary creations of the 1980s.Known for Mole’s comically dramatic assessments of his life in a Midlands cul-de-sac – “I feel like a character in a Russian novel half the time” – the book sold 20m copies worldwide and was translated into 30 languages.The BBC said: “With only a multi-coloured ballpoint pen as his guide, Adrian worries about his spots, his parents’ divorce, the torment of first love and the fact he’s never seen a female nipple.”None of the cast has been revealed, and producers say “a nationwide … search is currently underway to find Adrian”

A picture

‘People still blame me for their perforated eardrums’: how we made the Tango ads

‘Gil Scott-Heron did the closing voiceover. He was giggling away, saying, “You English guys are crazy!”’My creative partner Al Young and I had been on the dole for 18 months when we landed our dream jobs at Howell Henry ad agency. We had to prove ourselves fast. Tango’s brief was basically to get talked about. They told us: “We want Coca-Cola to be afraid of this little British brand

A picture

Memoirs, myths and Midnight’s Children: Salman Rushdie’s 10 best books – ranked!

As the author publishes a new story collection, we rate the work that made his name – from his dazzling Booker winner to an account of the 2022 attack that nearly killed him “It makes me want to hide behind the furniture,” Rushdie now says of his debut. It’s a science fiction story, more or less, but also indicative of the sort of writer Rushdie would become: garrulous, playful, energetic. The tale of an immortal Indian who travels to a mysterious island, it’s messy but charming, and the sense of writing as performance is already here. (Rushdie’s first choice of career was acting, and he honed his skill in snappy lines when working in an advertising agency.) Not a great book, but one that shows a great writer finding his voice, and a fascinating beginning to a stellar career

A picture

High art: the museum that is only accessible via an eight-hour hike

At 2,300 metres above sea level, Italy’s newest – and most remote – cultural outpost is visible long before it becomes reachable. A red shard on a ridge, it looks first like a warning sign, and then something more comforting: a shelter pitched into the wind.The structure stands on a high ridge in the municipality of Valbondione, along the Alta Via delle Orobie, exposed to avalanches and sudden weather shifts. I saw it from above, after taking off from the Rifugio Fratelli Longo, near the village of Carona – a small mountain municipality a little over an hour’s drive from GAMeC, Bergamo’s Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea – the closest access point I was given for the site visit.The Frattini Bivouac is not staffed, ticketed or mediated

A picture

Spanish Armada-era astrolabe returns to Scilly after mysterious global journey

It spent hundreds of years languishing on the seabed off the Isles of Scilly in the far south-west of Britain before being hauled back to the surface by divers and setting off a circumnavigation of the world.Finally the Pednathise Head astrolabe – a rare example of a 16th-century navigational instrument once used by sailors to determine latitude – is back on Scilly after being rediscovered on the other side of the Atlantic.It turns out that after being sold and leaving the UK, the astrolabe passed through private collections in Australia and the US, its true identity forgotten along the way, before ending up in a museum on the Florida Keys.“It’s been on quite a journey,” said Xavier Duffy, the curator of the Isles of Scilly Museum. “We’re thrilled to have it back on Scilly and in the care of the museum

A picture

My Cultural Awakening: I moved across the world after watching a Billy Connolly documentary

I was 23 and thought I had found my path in life. I’d always wanted to work with animals, and I had just landed a job as a vet nurse in Melbourne. I was still learning the ropes, but I imagined I would stay there for years, building a life around the work. Then, five months in, the vet called me into his office and told me it wasn’t working out. “It’s not you,” he said, “I just really hate training people